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#1 |
Senior Member
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Location: Cypress, TX
Posts: 3,711
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Dash pad photos
Well it was quite difficult to get this dash pad off of my 69 CST/10. My objective was to remove the dash pad without destroying it, and wrap it with new vinyl leftover from my bench seat upholstery. I believe part of my difficulty removing the pad was because information I could find about the dash pad was not clear. There are many posts that say there are a few nuts, 5 nuts, 6, 7, who knows. And there are no photos that I could find of the underside of the dash pad so I can tell what I'm dealing with, and what is the hardware used. So, here it is on the Internet for the first time. Documentation. And high resolution photo of the under side of the stock dash pad. The stock dash pad is quite substantial, it is made of a large piece of sheet metal that takes the curve around the dash edge.
Next time will not be that hard to remove. There are 4 Phillips screws on the front, visible from just sitting in the seat in the truck and looking up under that pad. I had one that would not come out, it would just spin, although the u-nut in the dash was OK. I think the screw was missing some threads. Even pushing on the tip of the screw from the back, while turning the screw with a screwdriver would not allow it to get started on fresh threads and come out. I had to put a chisel on the screw where it joins the nut, and whack it with a hammer in order to beat some sense into it. I did that by holding the chisel and hammer inside the glove box area. Then I was able to push on it from inside the dash while unscrewing it, and it came out. I believe it would not be possible to remove the dash pad without first removing these things: instrument cluster headlight switch glove box air conditioning center vent (take this off by removing 2 nuts behind the duct, firewall side of the duct) On the under side of the dash pad are 5 ea. #10-24 studs that poke down into the dash top, that are secured by 3/8" nuts. And at the ends of the dash pad there are 2 studs that poke into the dash front. They are secured by a different looking 3/8" nut, looks like an acorn. After all the nuts and screws were out, the pad was somewhat loose and moving around, but I needed to use a small pry bar to gently pry the middle of the pad up in the area of the speaker, because the stud threads scraping in the dash top hole were giving me resistance. The back of the dash pad (part near the windshield) lifts up first to clear the studs out of the dash top holes, then I pulled the pad straight toward me. Pictures: Last edited by dmjlambert; 10-10-2021 at 09:50 AM. |
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#2 |
Senior Member
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Location: Cypress, TX
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Re: Dash pad photos
High resolution:
![]() Last edited by dmjlambert; 09-08-2019 at 09:35 PM. |
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#3 |
Old member
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Liberty, & Garden City S.C. , U.S.
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The search button pulled up several links on this. I have pulled several pads off trucks and replaced them. The pads have several nuts and screws to remove. You also will do yourself a favor by removing the glove box and cluster the radio isn't a hve to but makes it easier also.
Nice write up though. Sorry it was a pain. If I had seen your post I would have helped you out. ![]()
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1971 LWB Custom, 6.0LS & 4L80E, Speedhut.com GPS speedometer & gauges with A/C. 20" Boss 338's Grey wheels 4 wheel disc brakes. My Driver Seeing the USA in a 71 ![]() Upstate SC GM Truck Club 2013,14 and 2016 Hot Rod Pour Tour http://upstategmtrucks.com/ Get out and drive the truck this summer and have some fun! It sucks not being able to hear! LWB trucks rule, if you don't think so measure your SWB! After talking to tech support at Air Lift I have found out that the kit I need is 60811. Per the measurements I gave them. Ride height of truck inside spring and inside diameter of springs. |
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#4 |
Senior Member
![]() Join Date: Apr 2016
Location: Cypress, TX
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Re: Dash pad photos
Thanks. Search button pulls up numerous pictures and threads with general descriptions, but nothing that helped me. There just was not enough detail and pictures. I also googled the Internet in general and looked and looked for pictures.
The job was not impossible, just harder than it should have been and much more time consuming than it should have been, because there was no definitive information or good photos of exactly what holds that dash pad down. I took care of that. |
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#5 |
20' Daredevil (Ret)
![]() Join Date: May 2003
Location: Jefferson State
Posts: 13,638
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Re: Dash pad photos
When I replaced my dash pad, I just winged it. I don't recall looking at any threads or pics. I do remember removing the dash gauge cluster, glove box, radio & speaker, and all the HVAC ducting and vents. Maybe the HL switch too but I can't remember. Pretty much everything but the cluster was being replaced with new stuff anyway.....
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- Mike - 1972 K20 LWB 350/350/205 RIP El Jay |
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#6 |
Post Whore
![]() Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: Portland Oregon
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Re: Dash pad photos
Having done it both ways. Removing all the components listed makes it easier. But it can be done with the glove box being the only component being removed. It depends on the size of your hands and arms. Sometimes being a stickman is a good thing.
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Thanks to Bob and Jeanie and everyone else at Superior Performance for all their great help. ![]() RIP Bob Parks. 1967 Burban (the WMB),1988 S10 Blazer (the Stink10 II),1969 GTO (the Goat), 1970 Javelin, 1952 F2 Ford OHC six 4X4, 29 Model A, 72 Firebird (the DBP Bird). 85 Alfa Romeo If it breaks I didn't want it in the first place The WMB repair thread http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=698377 |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Doland SD
Posts: 836
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Re: Dash pad photos
I've done it once before. It realty is not hard of you just remove all the things. Although I never had to remove the headlight swich.
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#8 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: South Carolina
Posts: 264
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Re: Dash pad photos
Thank you for taking the time to post this info . It's something I've wondered about . Maybe now I'll tackle replacing my 1969 C 10 dash . Thanks , again .
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#9 |
Registered User
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Location: Nor Cal
Posts: 822
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Re: Dash pad photos
Took my Dash Pad out Saturday to recover the pad and paint the upper dash.
Started to remove the old cracking vinyl, if you are very careful you can remove the old vinyl and save the original foam. If some of the foam tears out don't worry, it can be filled before recovering. In the next few days I will post pics of the dash recovered.
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1968 C20 Fleetside 396 4sp PS PB AC CST . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWK8GgWD4uA |
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#10 | |
Senior Member
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Re: Dash pad photos
Quote:
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#11 |
Registered User
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Location: Nor Cal
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Re: Dash pad photos
After the old vinyl has been removed, use Gorilla glue to fill any voids in the old foam. This will need to sit over night to foam up. don't do the top and bottom of the dash at the same time, this stuff is a little runny so you dont want to get it on anything.
After it sits overnight, it will look like this.
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1968 C20 Fleetside 396 4sp PS PB AC CST . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWK8GgWD4uA |
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#12 |
Registered User
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Re: Dash pad photos
Sand down the expanded foam, we use a pneumatic belt sander.
Where the screws go through the bottom of the dash, make a thumb sized indent in the foam so the vinyl will push in when the screw is tightened. Glue the backside of the vinyl and the backside only of the dash, don't get ay glue on the foam.
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1968 C20 Fleetside 396 4sp PS PB AC CST . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWK8GgWD4uA |
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#13 |
Registered User
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Re: Dash pad photos
Let the contact cement set up and start by pulling the vinyl side to side to wrap the dash.
Studs should stick through the vinyl. Finished Dash.....
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1968 C20 Fleetside 396 4sp PS PB AC CST . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWK8GgWD4uA |
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#14 |
Senior Member
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Re: Dash pad photos
If the vinyl cover is in pretty good shape except for a couple of cracks, is it best to leave it on and fill the cracks with the foaming gorilla glue, or peel the whole cover off anyway?
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#15 |
Registered User
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Re: Dash pad photos
You could leave the old vinyl on, but you would need to trim the old vinyl away from the backside of the metal dash so the glue will stick, at that time you will likely find you will have to remove all of the old vinyl.
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1968 C20 Fleetside 396 4sp PS PB AC CST . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWK8GgWD4uA |
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#16 |
Senior Member
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Re: Dash pad photos
What are we looking at here?
1 seems to be some sort of indentation on the pad top 2 is that some sort of masking tape? Does it stay on when you put the vinyl on? |
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#17 |
Registered User
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Re: Dash pad photos
1. is the indent at the bottom of the dash that the screws go through.
2. is a layer of masking tape that I use to cover the edge of the metal so its not too sharp and cut the vinyl. The edge of the metal dash is very sharp.
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1968 C20 Fleetside 396 4sp PS PB AC CST . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWK8GgWD4uA |
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#18 |
Senior Member
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Location: Cypress, TX
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Re: Dash pad photos
Beautiful work. Thanks for documenting how this is done.
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#19 |
laying low
![]() Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Searcy, Ark. USA
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Re: Dash pad photos
I've got a green dash pad from my 69 in good shape except a low spot in it. It got wedged between some things in storage. It is permanently mashed down there. Wonder how it work out to fill in that low spot with silicone over the original vinyl then wrap the pad with new vinyl? I'll want it black anyway.
And did you have to use a heat gun to pull the wrinkles out around the ends of the dash pad?
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Boog 69 Chevy stepside, 358/T350, 4.11 posi, 4.5/4 drop, rallys, poboy driver primer is finer 91 Chevy sportside, Tahoe, Yukon & GMC Crewcab All GM..'nuff said. I stand for the flag and kneel at the cross |
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#20 |
67-72 parts collector,…
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Re: Dash pad photos
Great thread. Thanks to all involved
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Keith Convert to disc brakes. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823 |
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#21 |
Registered User
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Re: Dash pad photos
If you do the work on a warm day, you wont need a heat gun. At least if you use the proper vinyl.
PM me for the type of vinyl you should use.
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1968 C20 Fleetside 396 4sp PS PB AC CST . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWK8GgWD4uA |
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#22 |
Senior Member
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Location: Edmonton Alberta
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Re: Dash pad photos
Thank you to both of you for this thread, I am going to tackle mine this weekend.
Question, though, I have been trying to get a good look at the ends of the finished pad: when applying the new vinyl, there appears to be no stitching on the ends... it is just wrapped around and glued down?
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DAVE Edmonton, Alberta 1959 Apache 1967 K20 1968 C20 1970 C10 1972 GMC 2500 1981 C10 |
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#23 |
Registered User
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Re: Dash pad photos
Correct, no stitching, just stretched and glued.
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1968 C20 Fleetside 396 4sp PS PB AC CST . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWK8GgWD4uA |
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#24 |
Registered User
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Location: Hudson Valley, New York
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Re: Dash pad photos
Thank you for posting this...
Is that dash you redid the FAWN color? If so (our trucks have that in common too ![]() My original dash has some cracks, but otherwise not too bad. Based on your write up, I think I could tackle this. Thanks again for posting the details... Kevin
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'68 C20 Utility 396 4sp (BuildThread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=806904 ) '68 C10 50th |
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#25 |
Registered User
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Location: Nor Cal
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Re: Dash pad photos
I have an Auto Upholstery shop so I have a lot of material on hand.
I used a vinyl called soft touch, the Fawn color is almost exact to the original vinyl. Used it on my seats too. Steering wheel is leather. The dash will take a piece of vinyl about 12" x 60"
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1968 C20 Fleetside 396 4sp PS PB AC CST . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RWK8GgWD4uA |
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