sm-465 hydraulic clutch swap

[mud slut 350]

So I have a 82 k10 with the sm-465 i put in after pulling the th-350. i got the 465 with a mechanical linkage that bolts to the frame. I want to convert to hydraulic for a smoother pedal and so it wont bind up under flexing. I was looking aat the Novak retrofit kit for the slave but idk what to do with the master. my biggest question is are all the pedal setups the same between mech and hydro? if so ill just get a master from the parts store if not ill have to dig through some junk yards looking for a diff pedal setup. any help would be great and most def pictures if anyone has done this.

[abebummy26]

you might want to ask this question over in the 4x4 section maybe?

[mud slut 350]

All trucks in the pedal and linkage aspect will be the same weather k or c as long as its the same tranny, but I will try there also
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[67_SS396]

Hydraulic pedals are different, but you can run hydro with your setup. You have to cut a small bracket off the pedal, but that's no big deal. The holes are dimpled in the firewall for the MS too. I used all off the shelf parts for an 87. I had converted my rock crawler, which started life as a CUCV to a mechanical linkage and 465 many years ago and last year converted to hydro. It's a pretty easy job. You can swap to a hydro bell housing or simply make your own bracket if you have the ability to weld. I've done both on various rigs.
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[mud slut 350]

Yeah I was thinking about makin my own bracket for the slave. Now what about the clutch itself and the fork?
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[67_SS396]

The clutch is the same. If you're making your own bracket, then you can use the fork you have. If you were to use a hydro housing, then a hydro fork must be used or you wont get full travel. They are bent differently due to the location of the actuator rod.
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[67_SS396]

Here's one I made for a buddy's crawler. He went from mechanical to hydro.




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[mud slut 350]

Oh nice and is that the oem slave? One from somethin else? Also can ya send pics of the pedals possibly? The tab that needs to be cut and where on the pedal the pushrod would connect to the pedal?
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[67_SS396]

It's been about four years, but I seem to recall the one in the pic is a factory replacement. I know he got it at oreilly. I'll try to snap some pics of my pedal assembly tomorrow and post them.
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[67_SS396]

You can see in the first pic where two rivets used to be on the clutch pedal. Cut those rivits/spot welds out and the bracket comes off. In the second pic, I ran a rod through an existing hole in the pedal assembly and welded it in. I then drilled two holes for keepers on both sides to keep the master cylinder rod centered. Don't mind the ugly rod, that was a trail fix due to bending the rod. You will need to make a pedal stop so you don't end up bending the rod like I did, which resulted in the clutch not disengaging. Doing so, almost caused me to roll over backward at the top of a 30' waterfall, which would've hurt like hell. Luckily I though quickly and shut the truck off. My crawl ratio is nearly 150:1 and the diesel will not stall when everything is in low.

Hope these help.

[mud slut 350]

Ok cool looks good man ill probably be doing this after I get back from deployment can't wait. I also will probably be getting a new clutch soon do you know of any good brands or any aftermarket ones that are good for offroad?
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[67_SS396]

The clutch I have in my crawler is a cheapy from oreilly. The 6.2 doesn't have much power, so I don't worry about it slipping. Plus, I rarely touch the clutch once I get moving. If you're running a stock or close to stock engine, my opinion is you don't need to spend the money on a high dollar clutch. My dodge on the other hand, I bought a Valair since it's my tow rig and is putting out much more than stock.
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