Cause for concern?

[BiggSixx1970]

Hey guys, 2 questions here

So, was filling up the other day, I have to fill up every couple weeks, every time I fill up I check my oil level. Every couple weeks I have to add about a 1/4-1/2 quart of oil to my truck. (Not too sure where it goes, It doesn't leak enough to even add up on the pavement and it always gets parked in the same place but there are a few drips on the ground. It also only smokes just a little when it first starts so it doesnt appear to burn much, no excessive tailpipe smoke.) Is this just another one of those things old trucks do?

My concern for writing this post: I check my dipstick the other day when I was filling up. Like clockwork, it's just as low as i thought it would be, and just as clean as ever. So I remove my oil cap to dump some more in and there is an accumulation of milky froth stuck to the cap.. Now I'm not the most experienced when it comes to engines.. But I know enough to know that's never good. So I added my oil, wiped that stuff off, putt he cap back on and acted like I didn't see that, lol.

I explained my situation to one of the regulars that comes to the bar I tend, he's a good ol' boy redneck and he said I shouldn't worry about it and it was probably just condensation because its been getting warm and really cold around here a lot.

Whatcha think, guys?

Thanks!

[heathbirkendahl]

Originally Posted by BiggSixx1970

Hey guys, 2 questions here

So, was filling up the other day, I have to fill up every couple weeks, every time I fill up I check my oil level. Every couple weeks I have to add about a 1/4-1/2 quart of oil to my truck. (Not too sure where it goes, It doesn't leak enough to even add up on the pavement and it always gets parked in the same place but there are a few drips on the ground. It also only smokes just a little when it first starts so it doesnt appear to burn much, no excessive tailpipe smoke.) Is this just another one of those things old trucks do?

My concern for writing this post: I check my dipstick the other day when I was filling up. Like clockwork, it's just as low as i thought it would be, and just as clean as ever. So I remove my oil cap to dump some more in and there is an accumulation of milky froth stuck to the cap.. Now I'm not the most experienced when it comes to engines.. But I know enough to know that's never good. So I added my oil, wiped that stuff off, putt he cap back on and acted like I didn't see that, lol.

I explained my situation to one of the regulars that comes to the bar I tend, he's a good ol' boy redneck and he said I shouldn't worry about it and it was probably just condensation because its been getting warm and really cold around here a lot.

Whatcha think, guys?

Thanks!

I'm thinking head gasket bud!

[GASoline71]

It is probably condensation. Do you travel short trips, and the engine doesn't get to operating temp (180 to 190 degrees) for more than 15 minutes? If not... especially in the colder months, condensation will cause the chocolate milk lookin' junk you're describing. Could be a head gasket or intake gasket...

Also, if that is the original unrebuilt engine (assuming from 1970 as per your sig line), "burning" only 1/4 to 1/2 a quart every 2 weeks is pretty good. It's just something high mileage engines do. I has a 1979 GMC with a 350 that burnt and leaked oil so bad... I added a full quart of oil each week, and changed only the filter every 3,000 miles. It changed it's own oil!

Gary

[BiggSixx1970]

doesnt smoke or run like a blown head gasket. plus there was no peanut butter on the dipstick, the oil is clean, just forth accumulated under the cap. The engine has never been overheated or hot rodded

[BiggSixx1970]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

It is probably condensation. Do you travel short trips, and the engine doesn't get to operating temp (180 to 190 degrees) for more than 15 minutes? If not... especially in the colder months, condensation will cause the chocolate milk lookin' junk you're describing. Could be a head gasket or intake gasket...

Also, if that is the original unrebuilt engine (assuming from 1970 as per your sig line), "burning" only 1/4 to 1/2 a quart every 2 weeks is pretty good. It's just something high mileage engines do. I has a 1979 GMC with a 350 that burnt and leaked oil so bad... I added a full quart of oil each week, and changed only the filter every 3,000 miles. It changed it's own oil!

Gary

Yes, all of my trips are short, I work only about a couple miles from my house, and my of my friends and running around I do is within 5 miles. Not many long trips are taken in this truck

[GASoline71]

Then you need to get it to operating temps probably 3 times week... you should see the milk shake go away.

Gary

[BiggSixx1970]

Also, Chocolate milk is pretty much exactly how i would describe it. I warm it up for a few minutes, but i often don't let it come up to full operating temp because i drive it real slow and easy. Don't wanna waste any more gas idling that I have to..

Thanks for the speedy reply! I just wanted more than one opinion on the matter. For the most part, everyone I have talked to about it said since its winter it's no big deal, worry about it if your dipsticks got the infamous peanut butter on it

[Mister-B]

I would switch to full synthetic 5/30 oil, and see if you still have the issue
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[Mister-B]

I would switch to full synthetic 5/30 oil, and see if you still have the issue
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[vectorit]

What does the radiator coolant look like, is the coolant level always the same?
Look to see if there is any oil slick or color to the coolant.

I recently had to fix a vacuum leak from the intake manifold gaskets, and when I pulled the intake off I could see a little water stain from a rotten section in the gasket to the water port in the head. It wasn't much, but it was definitely losing coolant into the lifter galley.

[71swb4x4]

I agree that it is simply condensation. If you search on this board you will see this question pop up every year in the late fall. The cool weather brings the problem out.

Edit: Here are two threads from 2011, you will notice the timing is within two weeks of your timing.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=497995
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=496295

[BiggSixx1970]

Originally Posted by vectorit

What does the radiator coolant look like, is the coolant level always the same?
Look to see if there is any oil slick or color to the coolant.

I recently had to fix a vacuum leak from the intake manifold gaskets, and when I pulled the intake off I could see a little water stain from a rotten section in the gasket to the water port in the head. It wasn't much, but it was definitely losing coolant into the lifter galley.

The coolant level always appears to be the same, there is no overflow bottle on this truck so its hard to check, but I have never had to add any, I check it every now and then. This engine is a straight 6, the intake and exhaust manifold both share the same gasket, there is no coolant that runs through them, buuut since this has happened I will give it a look just to be on the safe side.

Again, thank you all for your responses!

[BiggSixx1970]

Originally Posted by Mister-B

I would switch to full synthetic 5/30 oil, and see if you still have the issue
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Posted via Mobile Device

I run Castrol High Mileage synthetic blend, 10w-30, ran 10w-40 when it was still warm out. After I have this engine rebuilt in the future, I will switch it over to full synthetic, the only reason why I haven't done it now is because i don't want to pay for it, and I don't want that super slick synthetic to find a bunch of leaks the old dinosaur goo cant squeeze through

[69GWC]

Sounds like you just need to take the ole truck on a trip once in a while and let it get good and warmed up.
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[bobs409]

I had that on the filler cap of my old 350 that used to be in my stepside. I drove that daily and always fully warmed up. It still had that on the cap.

I wouldn't worry about it IMO.

[CC69Rat]

I'd keep doing what you're doing. Old worn engines use oil. The smoke when you first start it is the valve seals, again .. common in older engines.

It's one of those things I would worry about too, but I also know if I dig into it it's going to be one of those things that cost me $2k to rebuild the engine. And, .. might as well slip a small cam in it when I'm doing it .. But, maybe I need to get the heads cut and cleaned up.. valve job .. maybe some roller tip rockers.

See my point? Drive it man. Plan to rebuild it when you can. Just put a little back here and there and do a re-ring and bore if you need it, new seals, head gaskets, etc. It's due for a freshening up anyway I bet. I'd just drive it for now and plan a complete rebuild say in the spring (?) or whenever you can.

don't sweat it man..

Later.

[BiggSixx1970]

Originally Posted by CC69Rat

I'd keep doing what you're doing. Old worn engines use oil. The smoke when you first start it is the valve seals, again .. common in older engines.

It's one of those things I would worry about too, but I also know if I dig into it it's going to be one of those things that cost me $2k to rebuild the engine. And, .. might as well slip a small cam in it when I'm doing it .. But, maybe I need to get the heads cut and cleaned up.. valve job .. maybe some roller tip rockers.

See my point? Drive it man. Plan to rebuild it when you can. Just put a little back here and there and do a re-ring and bore if you need it, new seals, head gaskets, etc. It's due for a freshening up anyway I bet. I'd just drive it for now and plan a complete rebuild say in the spring (?) or whenever you can.

don't sweat it man..

Later.

rebuild in the spring/summer were my thoughts exactly. It's a damn good running engine minus an exhaust leak, and it could probably stand to have some of the lash taken out of a valve or two. it's only just rolled over 83k last week, and I can prove the odo hasn't been rolled over. Even in the cold (17 degrees this morning) it starts easy. And yeah, I understand if your gonna get in it, you might as well do it all at once. This being my DD I'm gonna try to craigslist a smallblock to toss in there since they're a dime a dozen in my area to get me by for a couple of months while I put that six banger on a stand. That will be my first crack at rebuilding an engine but I will have the help on hand to walk my through what i'm doing. Everyone keeps telling me I need to toss that straight 6 but I rather like it. To me it sounds amazing, and you can make excellent power with a little forced induction

[ole dollor]

some motors use a little oil, instead of always putting a 1/4 to 1/2 quart, drive it till it need a full quart of oil and see how far you go before it needs a quart, then you will kinda know how much it uses....like a quart ever 500 miles. i would also try and drive it more on longer trips and let it warm up enough to get the motor good and hot and the water will burn off the inside of the motor ..

[truckster]

Originally Posted by BiggSixx1970

This being my DD I'm gonna try to craigslist a smallblock to toss in there since they're a dime a dozen in my area to get me by for a couple of months while I put that six banger on a stand.

You need to know that dropping a small block in place of your six is not going to be a quick and easy proposition. If you're going to keep the six, you might want to find another one to put in its place. And the 292 is different from the 250.

[cdowns]

do you have a properly operating PCV system on your engine?