Would you pass on this?

[shane0331]

Hey guys looking for input from guys who have dealt with this before. Going to look at this first thing in the morning. Seller sent over pictures of the rust repair that’s needed.. passenger rocker and the dreaded area behind the passenger seat. Buyer says it’s a k20. Asking price is $5500

[Alex V.]

More pics of the whole rig would be helpful. It's not that hard to tell if it's a K20 - 4x4 (locking hubs and a transfer case shifter) with 8 lug wheels.

[Bigdav160]

It's hard to put a value on it without seeing the whole truck. Tailgate or rear doors?

I'd be surprised if that is the only rusty area. Check the lower front kickpanel area (top and bottom, below the taillights (under bumper). That shiny paint might be hiding other spots.

That spot behind the seat doesn't look as bad as mine. It appears someone ground away the top piece of metal to scrape out a the crusty stuff. What's it look like from the back side? There are a couple threads detailing the removal of the crossmember and replacing the bad area. The pic shows some of the floor is rusty. Take that repair into consideration.

That didn't make a whole lot of these rigs so selection is pretty limited and prices seem to be going up.

[shane0331]

Hi Alex, thanks for the reply.

I say supposedly a k20 because Any one can thrown 3/4 ton axles under a Truck, but that doesn’t make it a true factory K20. Vin and spid will still show half ton.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by shane0331

Hi Alex, thanks for the reply.

I say supposedly a k20 because Any one can thrown 3/4 ton axles under a Truck, but that doesn’t make it a true factory K20. Vin and spid will still show half ton.

K20 would be a 4 wheel drive 3/4 ton, C20 would be a 2wheel drive 3/4 ton. Be sure and check the area behind the sun visors and across the top of the windshield inside for signs of rust. Also around the heater box in the engine compartment, body mounts underneath. Take a piece of cardboard big enough to lay on and a good strong light with you and check underneath the body really good....

LockDoc

[HO455]

There are a couple more pictures in the Suburban C/L finds thread.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...678094&page=21

[Bigdav160]

So there is front floor/rocker panel issues.

It has potential but I wonder if the rear hatch is rusty too? Like mine, the rusty ones are a labor of love.

[HO455]

This is the rust worst pictured and it is pretty serious. Most of the support for the floor is gone. (2nd photo isn't great but kind of shows what is missing. It from my 67 C10) If the rear doors/gate and hatch and third door bottom are good then knock $1500 off the price to start. if they are bad too, then start at $3000. Unless your doing all the repairs yourself and have lots of free time.

[04ls1gto]

I can tell you its not easy to repair sheet metal under middle seats. Plywood floor has to come out, floor patch and cross member are gonna need repair and they are not reproduced. A lot of work

[HO455]

Check out 04ls1gto's thread on what your looking at to properly replace the bad rust in the area he mentioned.
Best thread on the web for this repair.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=724682

[bonestock72]

1968k20 is cutting up a rolled 67 with a very nice floor!

[HO455]

Well.... We're all waiting. Did you get it or pass?

[shane0331]

That would be a pass.

I came across a beautifully clean Arizona Truck on Tuesday. We set a time to Get together Thursday morning and he sold Wednesday night.

Here’s a few shots the seller sent over.

The search continues.....

[Killer Bee]

let's see if this works posting my search links.. this is how I found both of mine.. keep tabs open in separate browser and refresh daily or more..

simple search terms should catch all of them unless misspelled and the strays are minimal enough to keep the hit count down to one page..

orange county ca sacramento portland seattle phoenix albuquerque dallas denver

you get the idea.. add all the major cities you're willing to drive to or ship from and check the boxes for surrounding cities until your search results overlap..

you'll go through all of the usual mixed bag of craigslisters.. some really cool folks and some super flakes.. gotta weed through them though when you're on the hunt for something getting kind rare..

lots of 2wd but 4wd results are limited and even fewer 3/4t 4wd..

used these too but lots of bogus listings and emailed and called on a few that were either sold two years ago or never heard back from anyone

autotrader classics collector car network hemmings

good luck!

[BGarza13x]

You def got a better one, it looks like. I'm not sure I've seen any others, though, with window curtains... I can kinda see the practicality, but stylistically..

Killer Bee, I search my area too, but there seem to be hardly any in Central Texas for sale like there are in CA. I'm jealous. It was kinda slim pickins so I got one that needed more work because of the proximity.

https://austin.craigslist.org/search...auto_year=1972

[shane0331]

I actually have a craigslist app on my phone that allows me to select up to 400 cities if I choose too. The 4x4s in decent shape are very slim right now.

[1968k20]

Following. I'll let you know if I find one!

[Killer Bee]

going back over my notes, pictures, and texts, Josh's 71 in whittier doesn't seem too bad for the $5k mark..

missing front driveline no big deal, seen several posted on this forum for $100-200..

it's got the D44 front, 14 bolt FF rear, looks like nice seats, decent height lift, standard fair 350/350/np205 and some new engine accessories..

runs good and looks solid around the top.. and he's already knocked out some of the rust repairs..

some decent body skills [which I don't know if I have or not myself] could probably get this rig into solid shape..









they're getting somewhat thin in the lower $$$ numbers that aren't total wrecks so maybe worth consideration..

all depends on the intended purpose.. all original collector it will never be, but a sturdy 4wd sub to go camping or mild wheeling in, it has potential..

good luck!

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by shane0331

I actually have a craigslist app on my phone that allows me to select up to 400 cities if I choose too. The 4x4s in decent shape are very slim right now.

those apps were missing listings it seemed to me.. maybe just me though..

but that's the key, keep a broad search pattern and monitor aggressively.. good luck!

[Killer Bee]

Originally Posted by BGarza13x

You def got a better one, it looks like. I'm not sure I've seen any others, though, with window curtains... I can kinda see the practicality, but stylistically..

Killer Bee, I search my area too, but there seem to be hardly any in Central Texas for sale like there are in CA. I'm jealous. It was kinda slim pickins so I got one that needed more work because of the proximity.

https://austin.craigslist.org/search...auto_year=1972

lol, I was eye grinding that '70 in Pflugerville pretty hard.. but I stuck to 4wd due to the differences and I decided against the body swap for my rusty blue one..

I think that was a good deal for a running BBC 2wd if you snagged it

[1968k20]

Are you looking for a k10 or k20?

[shane0331]

Originally Posted by 1968k20

Are you looking for a k10 or k20?

I’m open to either. Really just looking for the most solid body for my money. I’m a mechanic by trade so I can look passed a lot of mechanical issues.

But I am not a body man by any stretch of the imagination.

[1968k20]

Originally Posted by shane0331

I’m open to either. Really just looking for the most solid body for my money. I’m a mechanic by trade so I can look passed a lot of mechanical issues.

But I am not a body man by any stretch of the imagination.

This is what I did: I purchased a 1967k20 (rolled body), from the original owner. He had rebuilt the chassis/ engine and it had tons of parts.
I just bought a body from r tech fabrications. They make crew cabs. He had a Suburban body that he didn't want to cut up. I actually have a 67k10 that has a junk body. So, you could go that route or just wait for one. I would sell the 67k10 to you for a good deal(- the front clip). If you are interested, let me know. I will continue a search for you!

[1968k20]

Originally Posted by 1968k20

This is what I did: I purchased a 1967k20 (rolled body), from the original owner. He had rebuilt the chassis/ engine and it had tons of parts.
I just bought a body from r tech fabrications. They make crew cabs. He had a Suburban body that he didn't want to cut up. I actually have a 67k10 that has a junk body. So, you could go that route or just wait for one. I would sell the 67k10 to you for a good deal(- the front clip). If you are interested, let me know. I will continue a search for you!

One of the reasons that I did buy the 67 is because it is a one owner,three rows of seats,title, and rebuilt engine.

[shane0331]

Originally Posted by 1968k20

This is what I did: I purchased a 1967k20 (rolled body), from the original owner. He had rebuilt the chassis/ engine and it had tons of parts.
I just bought a body from r tech fabrications. They make crew cabs. He had a Suburban body that he didn't want to cut up. I actually have a 67k10 that has a junk body. So, you could go that route or just wait for one. I would sell the 67k10 to you for a good deal(- the front clip). If you are interested, let me know. I will continue a search for you!

You have my attention but I’m not entirely sure I’m following your proposal. Are you saying that you have a k10 with a decent frame/drive train/ interior with a junk body, and then you have a stand alone body you are willing to sell?