A "little" hardware

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

I've been busy the last few weeks. Other than common nuts & washers, I "may" have inventoried everything here, right down to the stamps.

They don't come any cleaner than this. I'm sending this out for coating or plating. Basically small parts that are clear or black. Anything that didn't need to be refinished isn't included, which is mainly a few interior parts and stainless.

With the time spent and considering it's near impossible to replace these, I'd say next to my cab and bed, I hold these as a unit to a lot of value. I probably wouldn't do it again. It's just too tedious, and I/m "lucky" this stuff was nice to begin with.

There are a few spares. It would be easier to say what's not here, which are:

• Some block bolts (trans, intake, heads, valve cover).
  
• About half of my inner fender bolts were pitted, so I picked up some NOS.
  
• Think I had the wrong exhaust manifold bolts, so I picked up NOS.
  
• Haven't torn down the suspension, nor steering linkage yet. That's next, I've been avoiding it
  
• Pitted was chucked. There wasn't much of that. The hardware on this truck held up nicely.

[B. W.]

It's amazing how much time is spent on the little stuff! But, in the end it will be worth it.

[dmartin1]

That hardware looks quite clean.
How did you go about removing grime and surface rust?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by B. W.

It's amazing how much time is spent on the little stuff! But, in the end it will be worth it.

I learned DO NOT clean as you go along. I inventoried everything for everything anyway. I should have done that in the first place, and then cleaned in bulk. I even went back and hit what I already had, because of a better process, and was going to polish them anyway.

On top of my head, only parts that were pitted were a few "ground screws", a couple battery box bolts, inner fender bolts as stated, light pitting on some inner fender nuts, and the axle plate bolts were shot. I ended up with some spares, and really, the spares were mostly pitted. Anything light I threw into the lot.

I haven't pulled the distributor yet either, so I missed a retainer. I have the A/C "straps" as well, but I think I'll paint em............That said, seems I'm leaning toward clear for the retainers pictured above. Pretty sure some of that was black phosphate, but from this angle some bling on the frame seems nice. I may do the same for the rear brake levers & adjusters. What the heck, seems a good portion of the under-carriage on a full restore is replacement parts anyhow. Especially with a drop.

Original is great and all, but I draw the line before NOS brakes, exhaust, E-brakes & suspension.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by dmartin1

That hardware looks quite clean.
How did you go about removing grime and surface rust?

This stuff was in a good way to begin with, but definitely some rust, dirt etc. This works for the rough pieces as well. My process has become:

A. Degrease, some wire brush & rinse well.

B. Paint remover. Everything on this truck was un-religiously painted. Just a mess really, but at least it helped to protect the pieces......Some wire brush & rinse.

C. 50/50 white vinegar and water, over-night. I use distilled water, for some reason...... Rinse.

D. About one hour in 15/10/2 (water/white vinegar/ Must For Rust). Props to PaPaStewySnipes, he shared this formula and it works awesome. I use distilled water, just cuz. For badly rusted parts, skip C. and use this formula instead. I did my axle plates for too long in hindsight (18 hours, sorta forgot), but it didn't harm them a bit. Use caution anyhow......Rinse well.

E. Wire brushes, mostly on a Dremmel. Those little wires on a wheel suck man, but they do the job. Cup & pencil brushes work well too, but unlike the wheels, the wires aren't such bastards. I use stainless wires at this point. No reason to get too carried away here, because.....Rinse well.

F. Baking soda bath. I probably use too much soda, but what the heck. At this point they've seen a lot of acid. I use distilled water. Let it sit I have no idea, but I usually leave it about 30 minutes......Rinse well.

G. Dry. I use my favorite tool, a shop vac. Then I follow up with a hair dryer.

H. Back to the Dremmel ........Polish them up with clean brass brushes, blow em off and "that's all" When they're done not a spot on em. Most of the hardware has almost a yellow zinc color, but then I'm colored blind.

[CG]

Wonder how one of those sonic cleaners would do with small parts like this using the vinegar concoction for the cleaning solution?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by CG

Wonder how one of those sonic cleaners would do with small parts like this using the vinegar concoction for the cleaning solution?

Never heard of them. Probably well I'm guessing, but I'm not sure it's going to save any steps. Might save some of the hassle of step "E", above. How about that and degreaser, step "A" above?

[CG]

Here is a youtube link to sonic cleaners. I got one at harbor freight on sale awhile back and haven't used it yet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRksbn8T-qU

[In The Ten Ring]

I must save this thread!

I did clean each parts' bolts as I went along but now I regret coating each with NAPA Rust Treatment as I don't think it's so good a primer as advertised. I have all my original bolts as I elected to use replacements with new phosphate but I have all of those labelled in zip lock bags....perhaps I can get those replaced at some point.

A plating place in Charleston, WV (I think) suggested cadmium but they really only work in bulk.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by CG

Here is a youtube link to sonic cleaners. I got one at harbor freight on sale awhile back and haven't used it yet.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rRksbn8T-qU

Looks like they work well. Might save a few steps over what I'm doing. No doubt Papa's formula would be effective. I'd probably start with a lower dose though, maybe 15/3/1 (W/V/MfR).

Here's a video cooking some bolts: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gijBq_pnozo

The images in the OP don't do this hardware justice, and I couldn't leave it alone. This is more better:

[Gromit]

Came out great and thanks for the recipe; gonna try that.

Those fender nuts/clips are worth the effort to bring back because so far as I know they are no longer available; and the substitutes I have found so far are not acceptable.

In general the fasteners from this period are very high quality IMO

For example GM must have used a huge stamping press to make those originals as you know the nut and clip are a single piece; unlike the modern ones that are more of a captured nut design or just a thin stamping.

Photos attached from some of my efforts to find replacements - ultimately I gave up and restored my originals.

Eastwood and HF sell those vibratory bowls and media for cleaning hardware like this; I've looked at them but can't imagine my neighbors would want to hear the thing buzzing 24-7.

[Stephenshane237]

Just another option from my pinball restoration days get a vibrating tumbler from hf and use walnut shell media with flitz metal polish compound in the mix tumble for 24 hours and they will be brand new. You can reuse the media for plenty of rounds of hardware. It will clean and polish much more than an ultrasonic cleaner.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Stephenshane237

Just another option from my pinball restoration days get a vibrating tumbler from hf and use walnut shell media with flitz metal polish compound in the mix tumble for 24 hours and they will be brand new. You can reuse the media for plenty of rounds of hardware. It will clean and polish much more than an ultrasonic cleaner.

Grumpy recommended a tumbler to me long ago, but I wouldn't know how to do things if I didn't do it the hard way In hindsight, should have bought a tumbler. Bet I have more cash into brushes

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PfIKAKePnhY&t=230s

[Stephenshane237]

Probably cabelas has a tumbler for around 60, or the large one at HF is around 100 they are a lifesaver when it comes to hardware.