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Old 04-12-2009, 12:01 AM   #1
Captainfab
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Re: Daverods project 66

Looks good

Did you put that Evercoat high build primer direct on the bare metal, or did you spray it with an epoxy primer first?
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:16 AM   #2
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Re: Daverods project 66

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Looks good

Did you put that Evercoat high build primer direct on the bare metal, or did you spray it with an epoxy primer first?
I put it right on bare metal?
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:21 AM   #3
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Re: Daverods project 66

Looks so nice
I like bare metal, but love the look of some nice primer

I have read you need to seal the metal first before priming, but then I have also read you can apply it to bare metal...so maybe it don't matter which way you do it.
the internet is great but you get so many different contradicting opinions....kinda confusing at times
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:29 AM   #4
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Re: Daverods project 66

My first words when I walked in the paint store were " I need a primer that I can put on bare metal". She told me that was the stuff?
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Old 04-12-2009, 10:53 AM   #5
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Re: Daverods project 66

I think if your going paint it right away you can use a metal primer. If you have body work to do you then have to seal it first so it won't rust. Again I said "I think". What do you guys think?
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Old 04-12-2009, 11:09 AM   #6
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Re: Daverods project 66

My plan (do I have a plan) was to prime, do my body work (Rage body filler) then Slick sand, then paint? Mayde I have to seal the slick sand. I'm not sure. I was looking on evercoat web site the orginal featherfill says you can put it on bare metal. This stuff says g2 on in. I think that just means it can be used over a eching primer? I'm confused.
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Old 04-12-2009, 11:28 PM   #7
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Re: Daverods project 66

Worked on my doors today. Took the windows out, sanded the paint off, began to wonder if you can ever stop the rust? Used about 3 can off rust stop, hay it can't hurt. Sprayed it inside the doors, around and inside the hood, all the places I could'nt sand or sandblast. I'm going to see if I can get these doors to work. I don't really want to spend the money to buy new ones. Should be getting my engine back from the machine shop this week . It's a 350 bored .10 over. I have a turbo 350 and a 400. I think I'll use the 350. Did'nt really need to do the engine now but it just somthing else I can check off the list. Still looking for a steering column.
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Old 04-12-2009, 11:29 PM   #8
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Re: Daverods project 66

Man I'm glad I live in California with all the rust I've seen here. The etching/sealer primer that I use can have bondo over it.
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Old 04-18-2009, 08:01 AM   #9
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Re: Daverods project 66

It looks like you are making good, steady progress. Let us know how the engine assembly goes and keep up the good work.
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Old 04-18-2009, 08:55 AM   #10
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Re: Daverods project 66

Make sure the machine shop put that little galley plug back in place under the oil pump driveshaft area (ish...hard to describe. You should see it when looking in that area. Little feller, about 1/2 an inch if I remember right.). They remove them to vat the block.

It's happened a lot over the years. Forget that little plug and it won't build oil pressure. Big pain.
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:09 AM   #11
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Re: Daverods project 66

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Make sure the machine shop put that little galley plug back in place under the oil pump driveshaft area (ish...hard to describe. You should see it when looking in that area. Little feller, about 1/2 an inch if I remember right.). They remove them to vat the block.

It's happened a lot over the years. Forget that little plug and it won't build oil pressure. Big pain.
Thanks Tx I'll go look to make sure. No oil pressure would suuuckk.
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:29 AM   #12
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Re: Daverods project 66

I think it this is what your talking about Tx?
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:33 AM   #13
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Re: Daverods project 66

Look straight down into the engine bowels in this area.

It should likely be a shiny new little bitty freeze plug.
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:36 AM   #14
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Re: Daverods project 66

And that rusty thing sticking out of the block near the oil pan rail in your picture. That is some goofy unknown something or another. Unscrew it and replace it with a 1/4 npt plug. That's the lower drain for the block water galley.
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Old 04-18-2009, 09:46 AM   #15
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Re: Daverods project 66

I see nothing. I don't think they put it back. Maybe it's in the gasket kit?
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Old 04-18-2009, 11:22 AM   #16
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Re: Daverods project 66

It's been afew years, so I'm dealing mith my memory here...

I do believe you might have to remove the rear main cap to see the area better. It's up in here somehwere. I promise, I'm not getting Alzheimers yet. You will know it immediately when you see it. I think it's somewhere next to where the oil pump rod goes into the block.
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Old 04-18-2009, 04:04 PM   #17
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Re: Daverods project 66

hay hay hay. And to think I was beginning to doubt you. That's it right? One less thing to worry about. Thanks Kevin
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Old 04-18-2009, 04:15 PM   #18
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Re: Daverods project 66

Another plug to check and make sure is in place is the one on the deck just behind #7 cylinder.
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:00 PM   #19
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Re: Daverods project 66

what is the column out of?

crossmember looks good...what did you use to cut the holes?
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Old 04-28-2009, 06:19 PM   #20
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Re: Daverods project 66

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what is the column out of?

crossmember looks good...what did you use to cut the holes?
I it was a 79 van. I started to drill the holes with a 4" hole saw but I was'nt sure if it was for metal and I did'nt want to mess up my good hole saw. So I went with one of my favorates the mighty "Saws All" and a $3 metal blade. It worked good. Just cut what I could and ground the rest with a wornout grinding wheel. It turned out the 4" wheel was a metal one but it seemed to be taking to long. Around here 4" hole saw blade is about $25
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Old 04-28-2009, 10:29 PM   #21
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Re: Daverods project 66

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I it was a 79 van. I started to drill the holes with a 4" hole saw but I was'nt sure if it was for metal and I did'nt want to mess up my good hole saw. So I went with one of my favorates the mighty "Saws All" and a $3 metal blade. It worked good. Just cut what I could and ground the rest with a wornout grinding wheel. It turned out the 4" wheel was a metal one but it seemed to be taking to long. Around here 4" hole saw blade is about $25
Your moving right along. Nice progress. I wish I cut holes in my crossmember. Lazyitis hits me hard sometimes.
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Old 04-29-2009, 05:26 PM   #22
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Re: Daverods project 66

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Your moving right along. Nice progress. I wish I cut holes in my crossmember. Lazyitis hits me hard sometimes.
Fairy came today brought me my "How to book". Had to take half the day off so I could get some good reading in. Bought a different lower shaft from the parts forum. It's off a 71 measures 3/4" so it should work. Back to my reading I'm just getting to the good parts of what not to do.
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Old 04-29-2009, 06:14 PM   #23
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Re: Daverods project 66

what kinda "how to" book did you get.....truck customizing fer dummies?

you may need to share
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:04 PM   #24
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Re: Daverods project 66

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what kinda "how to" book did you get.....truck customizing fer dummies?

you may need to share
"How to rebuild your small block for dummies"
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:15 PM   #25
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Re: Daverods project 66

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"How to rebuild your small block for dummies"
Is it going to be some good info for ya?
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