The old "best" starter to use topic....

[rogergodding]

I've searched the archive a bit.... but still haven't found what I want to read. Anyway, my starter (solenoid ?) has had issues with cranking after a long ride. It seems to be getting worse (not so long ride). What is the best, least expensive solution? It has a Hi-Lo/Oreilly auto parts "lifetime" guaranteed starter on it, I think.....

rg

[leddzepp]

"Lifetime" guarantee starters from parts stores are junk. You will be taking it off and replacing it every three months for life. Take it to a local shop that rebuilds in-house, or get a mini-starter.

[rogergodding]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

"Lifetime" guarantee starters from parts stores are junk. You will be taking it off and replacing it every three months for life. Take it to a local shop that rebuilds in-house, or get a mini-starter.

forgot to mention, that I've had this starter since about 2000.....

[rogergodding]

OK, maybe what I am looking for is your experience with mini starters (skip white ebay?), etc.... don't have much to spend at this time, but need my baby to start......

[mixermike]

summit racing mini starters have never let me down in either my small block or my big block

[leddzepp]

Originally Posted by rogergodding

forgot to mention, that I've had this starter since about 2000.....

Wow...you are lucky! If it lasted that long, pull it off and exchange it for another one. I had my alternator and starter built by a local shop. No problems ever. I like the mini starter cause it sounds bad a$$ when I crank it, and it only weighs 8 lbs as opposed to about 30.

[rogergodding]

Originally Posted by leddzepp

Wow...you are lucky! If it lasted that long, pull it off and exchange it for another one. I had my alternator and starter built by a local shop. No problems ever. I like the mini starter cause it sounds bad a$$ when I crank it, and it only weighs 8 lbs as opposed to about 30.

Yeah, I guess they might still have the info in the system to replace it.. not sure where that receipt would be these days...... that starter has been used on 3 engines now......

[67sss]

start with the easy stuff first. make sure your battery and charging system is working good, check the ground of the battery to make sure it is well grounded. then climb underneath to pull the starter off and have it checked if none of the easy steps helped.

[BADPURPLE70CHEVY]

If you want least then get a shield for it or wrap it with the heat reflect they sell.

[oldblue1968chevy]

what does yours do, mine feels like i dont have enough juice to turn the motor over? wtf, maybe i should have my batt. checked someday..

[rogergodding]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

what does yours do, mine feels like i dont have enough juice to turn the motor over? wtf, maybe i should have my batt. checked someday..

when the starter is hot, it does not turn over or "acts" like it doesn't want to..... My battery is putting out over 12 volts while this is happening....

[watahyahknow]

think a rebuild would be enough i done those myself for a living and if there good they replace all bearings ,the solenoid inners ,the brushes and recut the eeeh not sure about the english word for it the stator i think replace the sprocket in the nose and paint before reassemble we trew all aloy parts in a polisher after dissasembly wish hardened the metal some and gave it a like new finish
the wire inside usually last more than a lifetime if it isnt burned up by verry long startcycles the stuff that wears our is the stator and the brushes and the copper contacts on the solenoid .

[WIDESIDE72]

I am running some sort of AC Delco gear reduction starter on my 383 stroker. I am not sure of the originl app, but it hasnt let me down in 5 yrs, even in 100+ plus Texas heat. I relocated the battery to the trunk, and when I did, I had some 3/0 welding cable from my dad who is a retired welder and ran that from the battery to the starter. I think that makes a big difference.

[clinebarger]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

I am running some sort of AC Delco gear reduction starter on my 383 stroker. I am not sure of the originl app, but it hasnt let me down in 5 yrs, even in 100+ plus Texas heat. I relocated the battery to the trunk, and when I did, I had some 3/0 welding cable from my dad who is a retired welder and ran that from the battery to the starter. I think that makes a big difference.

If it looks like this its a 92-96 corvette starter, requires a small flywheel. Very good starter.

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by clinebarger

If it looks like this its a 92-96 corvette starter, requires a small flywheel. Very good starter.

Yep, that's it!

[fjthompsoniii]

I've had really good luck with the ac delco they cost more but I think you get what you pay for. If you order one for a 1970 i believe is the year they changed you'll even get a steel nose instead of aluminum.... bulletproof!

[Tx Firefighter]

I'd disassemble the solenoid and turn the big copper washer over. That will make it ready for another 10 years of use. No sense buying a new solenoid or starter just because the contact washer is arced up.

[cdowns]

chrome ones start bestest

[watahyahknow]

called heatsink and i heared that before they usually solve that by using a remote ford solenoid mounted on the firewall

[rogergodding]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

called heatsink and i heared that before they usually solve that by using a remote ford solenoid mounted on the firewall

saw those posts.... hoping that a mini would be the solution...... will need to get this fixed soon... just drove about 15 miles today, side streets.. stopped at 7/11 and it would not start for a bit...

[Sinister]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

called heatsink and i heared that before they usually solve that by using a remote ford solenoid mounted on the firewall

x2

[WIDESIDE72]

Originally Posted by watahyahknow

called heatsink and i heared that before they usually solve that by using a remote ford solenoid mounted on the firewall

Heat SOAK, actually-Simple terms - a hunk of metal (or other thing) starts out at ambient temperature. It's exposed to other another temperature that warms (or cools) the surface. As time goes on, the head (or cold) evens out throughout the metal and the thing is "heat soaked". If you take away the source of the heat (or cold), the part will remain hot (or cold) for quite some time as it gives off the heat (or cold) that has "soaked" in the metal.

A heat sink (or heatsink) is an environment or object that absorbs and dissipates heat from another object using thermal contact (either direct or radiant). Heat sinks are used in a wide range of applications wherever efficient heat dissipation is required; major examples include refrigeration, heat engines, cooling electronic devices and lasers. (A Heat SINK would actually help in this instance).

[watahyahknow]

think a heatshield would solve it too it usually happens when running headers , thats not too expensive to try .
the heatsink thing is the metal round bar thats inside the solenoid heating up and sticking a bit making less contact than usual so the heatshield schould only need to cover the solenoid
when the heatsink thing is realy bad it sumtimes helps to tap on the solenoid with a piece of steel (dont hit the battery hookups though or there be sparks flying )

[rogergodding]

thought about a heatshield, but since the problem seems to have worsened quickly..... thinking it may be too late for that...

[hayhauler71]

I had the same hot start problem in my 71 with a 350 with headers. I went with the combo meal, new summit gear reduction starter with a heat rap plus the remote solenoid. So far so good.