Heat and noise control in cab

[FlowerForwarder]

Group-

Which product is better?
FatMat "rattletrap"

Lizardskin Spray on


Or should I use these both?

Please advise

[NEWFISHER]

I have used Fat Mat and will again. Works great tilted at an angle in the doors so water runs off the edge.

[CMFT]

Lizard Skin is a good product. Buy the bed liner sprayer from Harbor Freight and it'll be a quick job. Will take you longer to tape up the cab than it will to spray.

[OneTwo]

If you want the best, go with Second Skin Audio, although you will spend some more coin.

I've never used FatMat, but I've heard mostly good things. My mat of choice is Raamat BXT II, it's the best bang for your buck, in my opinion.

[boucher racing]

I have used Lowes Peel-n-Seal. Its a great product at an awesome price point.

A lizard skin spray, with a Peel-n-Seal top would provide max protection.

If it passes the HAMB test, its a good one!
http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...d.php?t=711889

[forestb]

Are both those products for heat and noise protection?

[hotrodder]

I USED THE LIZARD SKIN SOUND DEADNER AND HEAT PROTECTION ON MY 63 AND REALLY DIDN'T LIKE THE RESULTS. I'm WITH THE PEAL & SEAL, USED IT ON MY 66 AND IT IS ALOT BETTER. (IN MY OPINION)

[CMFT]

Originally Posted by hotrodder

I USED THE LIZARD SKIN SOUND DEADNER AND HEAT PROTECTION ON MY 63 AND REALLY DIDN'T LIKE THE RESULTS. I'm WITH THE PEAL & SEAL, USED IT ON MY 66 AND IT IS ALOT BETTER. (IN MY OPINION)

Curious to hear about your experience with Lizard Skin? We put it in my bro-n-law's 67 camaro and it's been great so far. Sprayed easy and has done its job well.

[cortcomp]

I used becool peal n stick (lmc, summit, etc) all over the insides of my 66, on both sides of panels (so inside roof skin and inner roof skin, outer door skins and inner door panels, rear cab and rear window panel, etc.

easy enough to apply, and i'm sure double thick it will be quiet

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=550931&page=5

[cortcomp]

More shots end of this page:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=550931&page=3

[joedoh]

peel and seal from lowes works the same as stuff that costs 10x more.

when sound deadening, it is about lowering the resonant frequency, not making a barrier for sound frequencies. resonant frequency is the frequency of vibration where the input power is the lowest and the vibration is the highest. large flat panels of thin metal have a high resonant frequency, which means that road noise makes the panel vibrate right in the center frequencies of our hearing, 800-5000Hz. you are not hearing the actual road noise, you are hearing the road noise making the panels in your interior vibrate sympathetically. The best way to prevent this is to add mass to the panel and lower its resonant frequency. This does two things, first the new frequency is lower and out of the center of our hearing range and the ear naturally attenuates it, and second the lower frequency requires more input power to have the same output level (you car stereo guys, think about how much bigger woofers and woofer amplifiers have to be than tweeters and tweeter amplifiers to have the same db output).

some guys cover the entire panel, but since its about adding mass you can get 9/10ths of the effect by concentrating on the centers of the panels. This is also why a second layer is a diminishing return, because you have already lowered the resonant frequency with the first layer and achieved a large amount of noise reduction, a second layer will only help very slightly.

asphalt has a lot of mass, so it makes a good noise treatment, peel and seal from the home improvement store is aluminum backed asphalt and is what you need. its likely made in the same factories as fatmat and dynamat, without the fancy label. Make sure you get the pliable foil backing, so you can form it over crevices and gaps in the floor. the stiff aluminum backing is harder to use. use a wooden roller to make sure as much adhesive is in contact with the panel as possible.

also make sure you close off any air holes where sound can get through, that is direct noise transmission through air and firewall (or rust) holes will let in a lot of wind and road noise.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by joedoh

peel and seal from lowes works the same as stuff that costs 10x more.

when sound deadening, it is about lowering the resonant frequency, not making a barrier for sound frequencies. resonant frequency is the frequency of vibration where the input power is the lowest and the vibration is the highest. large flat panels of thin metal have a high resonant frequency, which means that road noise makes the panel vibrate right in the center frequencies of our hearing, 800-5000Hz. you are not hearing the actual road noise, you are hearing the road noise making the panels in your interior vibrate sympathetically. The best way to prevent this is to add mass to the panel and lower its resonant frequency. This does two things, first the new frequency is lower and out of the center of our hearing range and the ear naturally attenuates it, and second the lower frequency requires more input power to have the same output level (you car stereo guys, think about how much bigger woofers and woofer amplifiers have to be than tweeters and tweeter amplifiers to have the same db output).

some guys cover the entire panel, but since its about adding mass you can get 9/10ths of the effect by concentrating on the centers of the panels. This is also why a second layer is a diminishing return, because you have already lowered the resonant frequency with the first layer and achieved a large amount of noise reduction, a second layer will only help very slightly.

asphalt has a lot of mass, so it makes a good noise treatment, peel and seal from the home improvement store is aluminum backed asphalt and is what you need. its likely made in the same factories as fatmat and dynamat, without the fancy label. Make sure you get the pliable foil backing, so you can form it over crevices and gaps in the floor. the stiff aluminum backing is harder to use. use a wooden roller to make sure as much adhesive is in contact with the panel as possible.

also make sure you close off any air holes where sound can get through, that is direct noise transmission through air and firewall (or rust) holes will let in a lot of wind and road noise.

Great post.
.
How much would you recommend buying?

[Rich 5150 69]

One other aspect of the heat issue, put a shut off valve on your heater hose, heat still runs thru the core and drifts in to the cab during summer months without it.

[protrash64]

Peel and seal here too....easy to do and cheap as ....lol!! It's not as large as the high dollar stuff, but comes in a roll. It was easy to make strips across the entire floor. Low buck

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

Great post.
.
How much would you recommend buying?

its 25 feet long, so at least a roll spread throughout the big flat panels (across the back of the cab, inner and outer door skins, floor pans especially by where the wheels are) will show HUGE improvement. Its so cheap though get a couple rolls and go nuts.

clean the surface really well. use a good flashing tape on the edges so it doesnt peel up in hot weather.

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by joedoh

its 25 feet long, so at least a roll spread throughout the big flat panels (across the back of the cab, inner and outer door skins, floor pans especially by where the wheels are) will show HUGE improvement. Its so cheap though get a couple rolls and go nuts.

clean the surface really well. use a good flashing tape on the edges so it doesnt peel up in hot weather.

My firewall gets pretty warm, is this stuff ok on the firewall?

[LostMy65]

How much peel and seal do you buy?

[protrash64]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

How much peel and seal do you buy?

I bought one roll. Made by U-seal at the Depot, IIRC. It is 6'' by 25'. I didnt do my whole cab. I imagine two rolls would do the floor pretty well.

[Palf70Step]

Originally Posted by LostMy65

How much peel and seal do you buy?

I used 4 rolls on my 84, but I did a double layer on the floor and firewall, plus I did the back wall of the cab.

I just did my 64 and used around 3 rolls. Again double on all floor and firewall areas. But I was too lazy to pull the tabjk and do behind it yet. I think I got a 1/43 to 1/2 roll left to use in the doors or?? eventually.


I am sold on the stuff too and even in our heat you don't get any tar-like smell

[LostMy65]

Originally Posted by Palf70Step

I used 4 rolls on my 84, but I did a double layer on the floor and firewall, plus I did the back wall of the cab.

I just did my 64 and used around 3 rolls. Again double on all floor and firewall areas. But I was too lazy to pull the tabjk and do behind it yet. I think I got a 1/43 to 1/2 roll left to use in the doors or?? eventually.


I am sold on the stuff too and even in our heat you don't get any tar-like smell

Yes, the tar smell was another of my concerns.
Thanks

[pwrbrkpadguy]

Did my entire cab 3 years ago with peel and seal and never had the slightest smell of tar highly recommend.

[focusedontheprize]

Originally Posted by pwrbrkpadguy

Did my entire cab 3 years ago with peel and seal and never had the slightest smell of tar highly recommend.

Echoing this comment. I did my entire cab and have had the truck sit in the direct 100 degree sun before and never had the faintest smell of tar.

[theastronaut]

We've used Lizard Skin in two trucks so far and both had major improvements. We use peel and seal inside the doors where it's hard to spray Lizard Skin.

[hotrodder]

It may just be me , I had used Dynamat in my streetrod builds and muscle cars, and it seemed to work out better. I tried the Lizard skin products for ease of covering the back of the cab and getting down into the cab corners. Maybe just the difference in the type of vehicle. I'm sure Lizard Skin is a good product, not knocking it or anything.

[BigDan3131]

For us it depends on the owners budget. If its a complete restoration we usually spray it with Rhino because it can go anywhere the gun can be aimed. Other times its Dynatron Rubberized Undercoating 4 coats inside the cab and 4 coats under the cab and if that's not enough we cover it in Dynamat too. The last one is just the Dynamat or the Eastwood version covering everything.

As far as how much you need...if your cab is stripped bare just get a piece of thin cardboard and cut it to the size that the Dynamat comes in and just lay it out in the cab and mark each space it covers.