Possible stroker Build

[Tyler212]

Ok this is my 1st post so if I forget or omit something I'm sorry its late and I need some help. If this is already answered somewhere else I couldn't find it and redirect me if you can and I would be very grateful.

I recently bought a remanufactured engine from a company I thought to be reliable. Turns out it wasn't. I'm gonna have to pull the motor out and rebuild it from the bottom up. I was thinking I might try to stroke it if it wasn't too expensive. I understand that building a motor is and you can put either 1,500 or 15,000 into it just depending on how much ya got. So lets assume I'm on
the lower end.

What its got:
350 bored .060 over
4 bolt main
Flat topped pistons
Stock cam

I know its alot thinner than most the strokers I've been able to find but didn't know if it completely shot my chances or not. The guy told me it was a stock rebuilt. So pretty much machined enough to clean it up and slapped together. About the quality of motor I got anyway.

I didn't figure the top end really mattered as much for the moment. I'll worry about that if I can follow though with the bottem. I mainly am concerned with clearence, machiene work, aftermarket parts, ect. that I would need or is suggested.

I don't have a set horsepower, torque and am not too picky at the moment about what goes on it. I want it to run off pump gas is about it. I'm almost positive I've left out some kind of important information and again I'm sorry.

[C20-67_N_MO]

So what is it your trying to ask us?

Whether you should go stroker or not?

[haysonj]

350 bored .060 over
Just my opinion but I would not put a lot of money into a block that is already bored this far out(no room for a rebuild if needed) You should be able to find a good block on craigslist pretty cheap if you know how to check it.

[gkesseru]

Ditto on the .60 over problem.
Why does it need another rebuild?

[Hottrucks]

I agree with these guys ..taht being said I would find a "Good" shop and take the block to them and have them check it out.....

not knowing what went out on it now leaves this as a loaded question......but the votec engines are readily available make good power and are fairly cheap...I was going to do a votec before I crammed the Caddy under the hood.....

[FRENCHBLUE72]

Id look for a new block for sure 60 is way out there... Btw welcome to the board..

[Jacfourteen]

x5 on the .060 over block, They tend to run hot when hogged out that far. As stated before you won't be able to rebuild it again and stroking requires that you clearance for the bigger crank, so you would have to do this again when you had to get a new one. I would also like to know what went wrong in the engine.

[btullis99]

i'm running a .060 over stroker with no issues. i bought a balanced rotating assembly from eagle with all the bottom end stuff i needed. had the block prepped by the pros, and put it all together myself. when its days are numbered i'll order one of these, http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-150100/
and some .03 over pistons and call it a day.

the problem is if its already .06 over and needs a little freshening up on the cylinder walls, you could run into an issue there.

[tim21391]

i wanted to build a 347 stroker.. i know its a ford.. but still same concept.. it was bored out .040 already and so next step would be .060.. so that would put it over 347 i know.. so i bored it to .060 and after i did that i got kinda iffy on my decision because the walls were so thin and almost into the water jackets and i didnt want to sleeve it. so i ditched that block and got a nice used block.. bored that out to .030 and i was much happier with that.. it wasnt too bad.. but ya my point here is like the guys were saying.. .060 might run into running hot.. and the stroker kit for my sbf was about 1000 bucks.. and you get keith black pistons and what not

[Tyler212]

My question was what all would it take to make it happen. I've called around the local machine shops. They only charge 200$ for the work they'd do along the lines of clearence issues. And as for the 60 over I know it wont last long but as long as it lasts near a year I'd be overjoyed. I've been scraping by on cash so long on my project that I cant keep it on the road.

This will be the 3rd motor that it'll have run for an extended period of time. The 7th block I've had horrible luck with this thing. We took a motor that was in my step dads daily driver not a month earlier and put it in this truck and it didn't run over an hour. The freakin oil pump went out and it locked up.

It does run a little hotter now that it did with any other of the motors though. But it had the stock 2 core in it. I've put in a 3(gotta love free stuff) and when I get the money I'm going to put a 4core in. Since then its ran at about 130 driving and 160 sitting and thats after sittin a while.

The professionals I've talked to said that they'd charge about 350 to 400 guessin high for all the work I'd have em do. That includes checkin the block, acid bath, checkin if the crank's balanced, connecting pistons to the rods, new cam bearings, freeze plugs and to check the heads make sure there not damaged or anything. And thats from 2 of the closer places. I'm going to another in the morning to talk to them about it.

As long as everything checks out it shouldn't cost like 1000 to 1200 max. The stroker kit comes with crank, rods, pistons, main and rod bearings everything needed for the rotating assembly. If I can I might even have them build the bottem end. I know its not hard but the people I'm going to see in the morning are the best in the area if there work is as good as their reputation.

Why is it its always late when I actually get the time to get on here lol. And I would have answered sooner but I was in hazard co for the weekend for their fire school. If you have any comments or questions I still would like to know as much as I can about this before following through. Any preference between cast and forged? how about I or H style connecting rods? Whats the biggest cam I can put in it and it still clear? Interior or exteriorly balanced? And just making sure could someone confirm the direction that a connecting rod seats in on the crank? I think I've figured it out but it'll be the 1st time that I've built one from the block up. I can't think of anymore questions at the moment. I'll try and check in sooner this time but for now I'm headed to bed. Thanks for the welcome and goodnight!

[Tyler212]

One last thing. I've not pulled the motor and tore into it yet so I'm not positive about whats actually gone wrong. I'll let you all know once I find out. But I'm pretty much positive my oil has more metal in it then my paint job does. And some are pretty big pieces.

[Tyler212]

Ok everyone. I thought I'd let you all know how it is progressing.

I've traded my brother blocks. So now I've got a 350 block thats not been touched. I took it to the local shop and the guys said they would have to bore it .030 over making it a true 383. And they priced the machiene work for $325. I've also took my set of heads to them asking them to check them out and if there's anything wrong fix them. They've got 194 valves in it and its the the mid close chambered 305 heads.(there's a set they make thats got a tighter chamber and one thats more open from what I gather)

I'm going to get the rotating assembly and cam from the shop thats doing the machiening and am also going to have them build the rotating assembly. The crank's internally ballanced, eagle if I remember correctly. Cast(I know its not as good as forged but there pro's and say it'll be all I need) I beam connecting rods, .030 over pistons can't be flat topped though or compression will be to high and cant run off pump gas. I'm not sure about the kinda cam its going to have though. I told him the tranny I was going to put behind it(4L60) and that I wanted it to be a little more agressive with a little lope but to run on a stock torque converter.

As for the rest of the motor I've got an aluminum intake(Holly or Weiand both sittin on a shelf in the garage) 650 cfm edelbrock Performer series, electronic ignition with accel high performance coil. Don't know if these really matter but I'll list them too. Stock alt, powersteering pump, and water pump. Straight fan, has a shroud. 3 core radiator.

Thanks for the input and I'll let you all know anything else I find out. I'll post a pic of it and my truck when I get it out again. Right now its not too much to be braggin about. But I'm proud of it. And I'll eventually get it right.

[Kerry P]

Looks like you have a sound plan. I learned the hard way over 10 years ago that Hyperutectic pistons (used in most budget stroker kits) do not tolerate detonation very well. Be very careful with your timing and vacuum advance. I cracked four pistons on a hot day and just 38 degrees of total advance.


Kerry P

[Rollie396]

you know that you need a 400 crank to make a 383 right?IMO you've made a good choice in going with another block and starting fresh.Good luck!

[btullis99]

sounds like your on the right path

[Tyler212]

Thanks Kerry P I didnt know anything about that lol. I'm still learning more about automotives everyday. And as for needing a 400 crank I'm getting a 383 crank new with the kit for the rotating assembly. A stock 400 wont work if I understand right. It has to be machiened down 10/10.