Help me with my driveshaft...

[HUSSEY]

I'm looking for driveshaft options for my AD on an S10 and I was wanting to see what others have done, can anyone chime in?

Right now I'm looking at the following options:

1) I can get a new driveshaft from Soutwest Speed for $189 + about $30 Shipping + a 1310 to GM 3R adapter U-joint for $24 which puts me at about $250.

2) Another option was to hit the junk yards. If I'm lucky if find a shaft of the correct length or get it shortened for $80. Assuming I can find one at PickNPull that hasn't been bent by the forklifts for $30 and I need a conversion U-joint for $24 and a new U-Joint for $15, I'm looking at $150.

3) Buy all the pieces and parts from Summit and take it to a driveshaft shop and have them assemble it. I think this would cost about the same as option 1 but, I could go from 1310 to 1330 or 1350 Joints.

[OrrieG]

I have always delt with a local shop on drive line modifications using existing drive lines from donor vehicles. I don't think they would be to happy if you walked in with a box of parts because they do not know the source and could not guarantee the quality. And if there is an issue (balance, bad u joint fit) you are dealing with someone you can work with face to face instead of a customer service guy somewhere else.

[joedoh]

its like steering and brakes, no reason to be cheap because it will always come back and bite you. I buy a longbed s10 driveshaft because its already too long and its a 4" aluminum, usually costs 50-65 bucks. then I take it to inland truck parts and have it shortened and balanced. then I lube the joints and it fits perfectly and rides smoothly.

its $165, maybe a touch more with tax, but its one piece and stands up to abuse, and new joints are cheap. someone told me that longbed 2500hd trucks have even longer shafts with the same yokes.

there is a driveshaft chain that I think everyone knows the name of, that practices the most dishonest practice ever, quoting a price then doubling it when you pick it up. they even tried to tell me that they couldnt make a driveshaft as long as I was needing, which was 6 inches shorter than the driveshaft I brought them. I left without the work done and I wont ever be back.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

its like steering and brakes, no reason to be cheap because it will always come back and bite you. I buy a longbed s10 driveshaft because its already too long and its a 4" aluminum, usually costs 50-65 bucks. then I take it to inland truck parts and have it shortened and balanced. then I lube the joints and it fits perfectly and rides smoothly.

its $165, maybe a touch more with tax, but its one piece and stands up to abuse, and new joints are cheap. someone told me that longbed 2500hd trucks have even longer shafts with the same yokes.

there is a driveshaft chain that I think everyone knows the name of, that practices the most dishonest practice ever, quoting a price then doubling it when you pick it up. they even tried to tell me that they couldnt make a driveshaft as long as I was needing, which was 6 inches shorter than the driveshaft I brought them. I left without the work done and I wont ever be back.

Ok...I'll probably go that route. The driveshaft that came out my S10 was a two piece. The driveshaft shop that I called only works on steel shafts which limits your selection. I'll have to give ITP a call if they will shorten an aluminum shaft.

[joedoh]

they do, I have done 4. its no big deal to them, just have to know how short to make it. they work on huge driveshafts normally, when I take mine in they say "AWWWW look how LITTLE"

and I didnt type the cost, ITP charges 100 bucks to shorten it and balance it. so thats 165 total. and you need 98-03 longbed driveshaft, 2.2 or 4.3 doesnt matter.

[HUSSEY]

Ok...so I called ITP. 150 to shorten an aluminum shaft. I'll have to double check the price because I would think it would be the same at all their shops. That includes installing the U-joints if I buy the joints from them, about $25 a piece for the heavy duty joints. I can get a shaft at Pick N Pull for 27 so that puts me at about $230. Similar to the cost of a new shaft from Southwest Speed but it'll have bigger joints. I feel good about taking it to ITP because the guy in the drive line shop really sounded like he knew what he was talking about.

[Wrenchbender Ret]

There is a mom & pop driveshaft co. in K.C. He does real good work & is reasonable. He does aluminum also. I use him for my T-5 conversions. I can send you his # if you are interested.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by Wrenchbender Ret

There is a mom & pop driveshaft co. in K.C. He does real good work & is reasonable. He does aluminum also. I use him for my T-5 conversions. I can send you his # if you are interested.

Please do, or just post up their name and number.

[Dave0]

Southwest speed will send you a new one with a yoke and joints for 150.00 or aluminum is a bit higher... Ive bought 2 from them...

One of them is behind a 450 horse big block... No issues...

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I buy a longbed s10 driveshaft because its already too long and its a 4" aluminum, usually costs 50-65 bucks. then I take it to inland truck parts and have it shortened and balanced. then I lube the joints and it fits perfectly and rides smoothly. its $165, maybe a touch more with tax, but its one piece and stands up to abuse, and new joints are cheap.

Hey Joe, isn't the longbed S10 shaft a two-piece unit? I was considering replacing my two-piece shaft with a single.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

Hey Joe, isn't the longbed S10 shaft a two-piece unit? I was considering replacing my two-piece shaft with a single.

The drive shaft that came out of my 1991 was a two piece. I think they go from a two piece to a one piece after a certain year, somewhere around 2003?

[joedoh]

97+ V6 and 98+ 2.2 longbed are one piece. the automatic driveshafts are the same for both engines but even if they werent, you are shortening it anyway.


it would be nice to move the V6 back 10" and use a std cab driveshaft. I moved my current V6 back 8" and there is still 2" of room so I may try that next time.


edit: I said 95+ V6 at first but the 97 is when the V6 went to a one piece aluminum driveshaft.

[MiraclePieCo]

Thanks gentlemen; thanks for the info and sorry to interrupt the thread.

[joedoh]

I just picked up a 01 longbed driveshaft yesterday for 65 and dropped it at ITP, picked it up today, their prices have gone up, 110 + 10 shop parts + tax is $130. so 200, joints look good but I may replace them anyway.

[HUSSEY]

Nice. I'll have to make sure the rates are the same where I may take one. Does the longbed shaft have GM 3R joints front and back?

[joedoh]

hmm, I dont know, I use AC Delco 45U0108 as replacements, which is just about every single GM RWD made in the last 30 years except the heavier trucks.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by joedoh

I just picked up a 01 longbed driveshaft yesterday for 65 and dropped it at ITP, picked it up today, their prices have gone up, 110 + 10 shop parts + tax is $130. so 200, joints look good but I may replace them anyway.

You said your aluminum drive shaft is 4 in., correct?

So, have you had to build a drive shaft tunnel on your builds? With mine, there is is about 1/2 in. clearance on the front yoke. I thin at the back of the cab it's going to be close. I've mocked up what I could with a 1 in. piece of PVC to see how it looks. I could allays trim the back lip of the cab to get some more clearance...I just don't want to have to start cutting into my floor. Which may be one reason I lean toward a 2 1/2 in. steel drive shaft.

Either way, before I pull the trigger I'm going to get a 4 in. piece of PVC and mock up a driveshaft, bounce on the rear end, and see just how close I am between the drive shaft and the rear of the cab.

[joedoh]

thats a good point. I seem to remember you made your own body mounts, and I also remember your trans came up a lot higher than mine.

I built the common shorter mounts and stock s10 bushings, it didnt need much of a trans hump and even when the driveshaft was bolted in it still cleared the floor. so I dont know? your results may vary but damn thats smart to think about it before you do it, sometimes I wish I did that.