Dana 44 help.

[swamp rat]

Hi all, I have a dana 44 open knuckle under my 3/4 ton and am debating if i should do the steering knuckles myself or have it done. Need to know what kind of special tools i might need but most importantly i need some good step by step reference material so was hoping someone out there can steer me in the right direction.

I find stuff for Fords and jeeps on line but wanna be sure i have the correct reference material to read up on before i decide if i start the job or hire it done.

I have done wheel bearings on trailers or front of 2wd cars ect, and have installed warn hubs and have a little training on a few heavy equipment pumpkins about 30 years ago but never have i ventured into steering knuckels and hubs ect from a front axle. I'm sure i have the ability but don't know if i have all the right tools (specialty) or even where would be a good place to find the correct bearings and seals. Thanks

[72lb4x4]

Don't believe the manual where it says gently tap the spindle when removing it. Get the slide hammer and adapter from the parts store, or the spindle isn't coming off w/o nuclear weapons.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by 72lb4x4

Don't believe the manual where it says gently tap the spindle when removing it. Get the slide hammer and adapter from the parts store, or the spindle isn't coming off w/o nuclear weapons.

By manual are you referencing a Clymers or Haynes? I seeme to have missplaced my book, am still looking for it.. Will that book have enough info to do the job?

[msgross]

You can borrow most of the parts from Auto Zone (bearing pullers, blind puller, spindle socket, bearing set tool, tie rod remover). You can google Dana 44 bearing install and find loads of pics and tutorials.

I say do it yourself (unless it's your daily driver and you have to have it back together overnight!) NAPA has all of the bearings, ball joints that you need.

[OLDCHEV4X4]

Here's some of what I use, that you might not have.

snap ring pliers
spindle nut socket
ball joint splitter (pickle fork)
1/2 torque wrench
upper ball joint adjusting socket
ball joint press

You can get the spindle off with a piece of wood and a big hammer and PB Blaster if you dont have the tool.

You can drive seals out with a punch and in with a suitable piece of wood.

You can remove TRE (tie rod end) with 2 hammers if you dont have the tool.

The GM service manual gives better pictures and instructions on how to do the job.

Also, while your in there, check out your axle end u joints.

[skoffice]

Only advice I can give is make sure you follow the procedures EXACTLY (can't remember what they are lol) for installing the ball joints. They can be hurt rather easily if you torque them just a little too much. But otherwise go for it! Also make sure you get the D44 spindle nut socket or you won't get very far.

[LONGHAIR]

As OLDCHEV4X4 mentioned.... There is another socket required to do this install. You need the one for the upper ball-joint sleeve. It looks like a miniture version of the spindle nut socket. It is used to remove and install/torque the new tapered sleeve the should come with your new upper ball-joint.
Many guys don't even know that this sleeve is there when they start this project. An auto parts place that has the ball-joints should have that socket too....

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by msgross

You can borrow most of the parts from Auto Zone (bearing pullers, blind puller, spindle socket, bearing set tool, tie rod remover). You can google Dana 44 bearing install and find loads of pics and tutorials.

I say do it yourself (unless it's your daily driver and you have to have it back together overnight!) NAPA has all of the bearings, ball joints that you need.

Thanks to all the replys! I found my manual, its a Chiltons, it has shed a little light in the subject.. Wish I had a GM Manual!

What i don't have from everything i have read is listed below with a few questions:

Spindle socket, I have seen one made out of 2" PVC but unsure about torqueing upon reassembly.

Blind puller, I have a 3 jaw puller but not sure if it will work, i'm assuming this is for the inner Hub bearing?

Upper Balljoint adjusting socket: Don't know what makes it different from a regular socket.

Ball Joint press:

PB Blaster: What in the world is this?? LOL!

This is not my daily driver, unfortunantly for me i will have to do this in my driveway as i cant get my truck into my garage, so when i do it i need to know i have everything i need before i start..

Thanks for everyones help!

[msgross]

blind bearing puller is for the needle bearing inside the hub (I think), PB Blaster (you're kidding right?) is great penetration lube (that sounds naughty). Spindle Socket is about $10 to buy your own, no PVC required.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by msgross

blind bearing puller is for the needle bearing inside the hub (I think), PB Blaster (you're kidding right?) is great penetration lube (that sounds naughty). Spindle Socket is about $10 to buy your own, no PVC required.

LOL! I was in the mindset thinking "tools" when i read the PB blaster.. oh well.. yea i know what it is now.. my goof!

Tomorrow i will get out there and look for the BOM numbers and look it up on the dana site, curious to see what it comes up with.

http://www2.dana.com/expertforms/deabill.aspx

Then pull a wheel and give it a good looking over before i make my next move.

But the next thing on my list is to install new water pump, alternator and pulleys that i allready have sitting in my garage..

[silver7]

I am in your same situation with my Dana 44 steering knuckle installation. If you have the time I'm always up for doing it myself. But I just tried a rental ball bearing installation kit from Autozone and it was a pain in the keester tried to install the ball joints with damaging my recent powder coat job. So after installing one I took it to the local machine shop to have them installed - R&B Machine Shop in High Point, NC for you local guys.

We went over the direction they were supposed to be installed and I labeled the upper joints and hole as 'A's and lower joints and holes as 'Bs' to prevent any mistakes. I even left him my LMC catalog with the diagram! $45 WELL SPENT.

As Longhair said, don't forget about the upper ball adjusting sleeves which will need to be installed too. I took you some pics of the pieces which came with the upper ball joints I bought from LMC as well as the old adjusting sleeve which need removed from my Dana 44 housing yoke.

[LONGHAIR]

Originally Posted by ezglide

Spindle socket, I have seen one made out of 2" PVC but unsure about torqueing upon reassembly.

Blind puller, I have a 3 jaw puller but not sure if it will work, i'm assuming this is for the inner Hub bearing?

Upper Balljoint adjusting socket: Don't know what makes it different from a regular socket.

I've never seen one made from plastic....but I would bet that is won't work. The prongs would not be strong enough to handle the torque.
All ofthe ones I have seen are made from thick walled steel tube that has a cap welded on the end for the ratchet's square drive.

Blind puller is a tool that connects to a slide hammer to pull out bearings that you cannot drive from the other direction. I have one for the outer wheel bearing of the rear axle. For the inner spindle bearing there is a "driver" tool that slides in from the other end and expands behind the bearing. It pushes the bearing out like a punch.

The upper ball-joint socket has prongs on it very much like the spindle nut socket, only its a lot smaller. You need it because there is a specific torque required on it when re-installing.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by silver7

I am in your same situation with my Dana 44 steering knuckle installation. If you have the time I'm always up for doing it myself. But I just tried a rental ball bearing installation kit from Autozone and it was a pain in the keester tried to install the ball joints with damaging my recent powder coat job. So after installing one I took it to the local machine shop to have them installed - R&B Machine Shop in High Point, NC for you local guys.

We went over the direction they were supposed to be installed and I labeled the upper joints and hole as 'A's and lower joints and holes as 'Bs' to prevent any mistakes. I even left him my LMC catalog with the diagram! $45 WELL SPENT.

As Longhair said, don't forget about the upper ball adjusting sleeves which will need to be installed too. I took you some pics of the pieces which came with the upper ball joints I bought from LMC as well as the old adjusting sleeve which need removed from my Dana 44 housing yoke.

Thanks for the pic's, got a couple questions:

If not for damaging the fresh powdercoat do you think the puller kit would have done a good enough job installing the king pins?

Wish i had the time and cash to have one powdercoated!

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by silver7

I am in your same situation with my Dana 44 steering knuckle installation. If you have the time I'm always up for doing it myself. But I just tried a rental ball bearing installation kit from Autozone and it was a pain in the keester tried to install the ball joints with damaging my recent powder coat job. So after installing one I took it to the local machine shop to have them installed - R&B Machine Shop in High Point, NC for you local guys.

We went over the direction they were supposed to be installed and I labeled the upper joints and hole as 'A's and lower joints and holes as 'Bs' to prevent any mistakes. I even left him my LMC catalog with the diagram! $45 WELL SPENT.

As Longhair said, don't forget about the upper ball adjusting sleeves which will need to be installed too. I took you some pics of the pieces which came with the upper ball joints I bought from LMC as well as the old adjusting sleeve which need removed from my Dana 44 housing yoke.

Great pic's thanks!

I have a couple 4X4 places around here, guess i could allways have them do it as a carry in if nessasary..

Did you have any issues in getting the correct parts when you ordered thru LMC?

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

I've never seen one made from plastic....but I would bet that is won't work. The prongs would not be strong enough to handle the torque.
All ofthe ones I have seen are made from thick walled steel tube that has a cap welded on the end for the ratchet's square drive.

Blind puller is a tool that connects to a slide hammer to pull out bearings that you cannot drive from the other direction. I have one for the outer wheel bearing of the rear axle. For the inner spindle bearing there is a "driver" tool that slides in from the other end and expands behind the bearing. It pushes the bearing out like a punch.

The upper ball-joint socket has prongs on it very much like the spindle nut socket, only its a lot smaller. You need it because there is a specific torque required on it when re-installing.

Looking at the yoke pic above i'm now assuming the outer part of the sleeve threaded? I can see how a 4 prong socket would fit the top now as it looks like it need a socket with 4 fingers (just like the mini version you mentioned)...

Last question i cant decipher from My Chiltons is do you use the pickel fork to pop the kingpins loose? It mentioned a tool and process but couldn't tell if the book refered to a pickel fork.

I do have a couple local 4X4 shops around that i'm sure can install the kingpins and pull the hub bearings if need be..

Thanks for your help! Much appreciated. I'm working this weekend so cant do anything with it today.

[LONGHAIR]

Kingpins are a totally different thing, don't get things confused.

If you don't have a press to get the ball-joints out of the knuckles, a local shop may be your best bet.

As far as getting it apart, it can be difficult. You are essentially breaking two tapers at the same time. A BFH and a good aim are important. The biggest hammer is not necessary, swinging speed matters.

[Billhilly]

If you go here - http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5310-3.pdf this gives some more detail of how to. I did the whole job myself. Bought the upper ball joint and hub sockets. But I did use my large shop press to get things apart. Didn't have/need any blind puller.

Bill.

[Billhilly]

I found this as well. Checked mine when I was done and was within spec. If it's wrong it can cause problems/wandering etc?

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by LONGHAIR

Kingpins are a totally different thing, don't get things confused.

If you don't have a press to get the ball-joints out of the knuckles, a local shop may be your best bet.

As far as getting it apart, it can be difficult. You are essentially breaking two tapers at the same time. A BFH and a good aim are important. The biggest hammer is not necessary, swinging speed matters.

Sigh, ok Ball Joints...

Hey, I have one of these, Your and BillHillys replys got me out of yet another mindset, that maybe i can use this instead of the specialty puller/installer for the ball Joints in and out of the knuckles? Just being sure
http://www.harborfreight.com/20-ton-...ess-32879.html

Not to sound stupid but are you using the pickle fork when you break the tapers? or just smacking the top stud with the hammer? or smackin the top of the knuckle?

Thanks again, I have never done this stuff so just makin sure i know as much as possible before i start.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Billhilly

If you go here - http://www2.dana.com/pdf/5310-3.pdf this gives some more detail of how to. I did the whole job myself. Bought the upper ball joint and hub sockets. But I did use my large shop press to get things apart. Didn't have/need any blind puller.

Bill.

Hey thanks for the link, Pdf and the advice!

I was sitting here in the mindset that because of the shape of the knuckle I absolutly HAD to use the specialty puller/installer, but hey i have a 20T press in my garage, sounds like I may have this thing in the bag once i get the sleeve adjuster socket and if nessasary the bearing puller if what i have doesent work, I got the hub socket yesterday.

I will order parts next week.

[Billhilly]

One thing I should add.
What made the dismantle work for me was I happened to have a block of steel 1 1/2" X 2 1/2" X about 12" long. Now I don't remember the exact details but it was the perfect size that with a few offcuts of pipe etc gave me the support I needed to get the old joints out. I think it fitted through the axle/spindle hole and enabled me to put some serious pressure on to get the old joints out. You'll have to get your's on your press and see what will work for you.

Bill.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by Billhilly

One thing I should add.
What made the dismantle work for me was I happened to have a block of steel 1 1/2" X 2 1/2" X about 12" long. Now I don't remember the exact details but it was the perfect size that with a few offcuts of pipe etc gave me the support I needed to get the old joints out. I think it fitted through the axle/spindle hole and enabled me to put some serious pressure on to get the old joints out. You'll have to get your's on your press and see what will work for you.

Bill.

Hi Bill! Thanks for the reply! Sorry about so many questions but i have never dissasembled one of these yet.

When the time gets here, and i say that cause i just hurt my knee so need to heal, i'll dig into my scrap pile and see what i have to use with the press.

The fork i have is good for the tie rods, don't know if i'll need a larger pickle fork untill i can get back out there and check.

[silver7]

Originally Posted by ezglide

Looking at the yoke pic above i'm now assuming the outer part of the sleeve threaded? I can see how a 4 prong socket would fit the top now as it looks like it need a socket with 4 fingers (just like the mini version you mentioned)...

Here is a pic of the ' ball joint spanner wrench' I purchased off Amazon to remove the old threaded adjusting sleeve. It was a little pricier than expected - $24 - but I was tired of going to Napa, Autozone, Advanced and Reillys and hearing them say they did not carry it.

[swamp rat]

Originally Posted by silver7

Here is a pic of the 'ball joint spanner wrench' I purchased off Amazon to remove the old threaded adjusting sleeve. It was a little pricier than expected - $24 - but I was tired of going to Napa, Autozone, Advanced and Reillys and hearing them say they did not carry it.

Thanks for the pic, i just ordered one.

[silver7]

Originally Posted by silver7

I am in your same situation with my Dana 44 steering knuckle installation. If you have the time I'm always up for doing it myself. But I just tried a rental ball bearing installation kit from Autozone and it was a pain in the keester tried to install the ball joints with damaging my recent powder coat job. So after installing one I took it to the local machine shop to have them installed - R&B Machine Shop in High Point, NC for you local guys.

We went over the direction they were supposed to be installed and I labeled the upper joints and hole as 'A's and lower joints and holes as 'Bs' to prevent any mistakes. I even left him my LMC catalog with the diagram! $45 WELL SPENT.

As Longhair said, don't forget about the upper ball adjusting sleeves which will need to be installed too. I took you some pics of the pieces which came with the upper ball joints I bought from LMC as well as the old adjusting sleeve which need removed from my Dana 44 housing yoke.

Finally got the upper ball adjusting sleeves removed. Had some trouble initially and the BFH didn't work. But after I gave them a few sprays on this stuff and hit them with my 1/2" torque wrench and the spanner they came right out.