Double Flare trouble!!

[66_k10_manny]

im having so many problems getting the brake lines done on my truck. Tried it myself with a flaring tool and couldn't make a good non leaking double flare. Had a local shop make some lines for me along with a couple of brand new 90 deg fittings and they're still leaking. What could I be doing wrong?

[LANDC]

When you connect your lines make sure they are super tight. Crazy tight.

[1968CHEVYC10]

yeah, I did my own and I had to get them really tight before they stopped leaking, get a set of flare nut wrenches, of just use some vice grips if your don't mind tearing up the nuts.

[rocketwheels]

...I have had this problem before , too.

Really need to cinch down on these connections.

[ERASER5]

I have done many double flares without a single problem. I have KD brand double flare sets, a cheap one and a not so cheap one. For single flares, I do have some really nice tools, but they do not play well with the double flare anvils. I have developed some steps for doing double, bubble, and single flare

Do not attempt to use stainless line for double or bubble flares unless you have professional tools. It just isn't going to work. You will work harden the flare before it is finished, and then it will crack.

The standard steel line is OK, but you have to be very sure to have a square cut, the inside reamed smoothly, the outside chamfered nicely, and and the tube end oiled. The stick out from the clamp must be exact for the anvil size used. Tighten the clamp closest to the tube first. Then the furthest clamp. Use the belling anvil, then the flare anvil. Done, unless you forgot to put the nut on first.

Installing the line crooked is the leading cause of seal failure. The nut will push the flare, and the flare is caught on the threads and bends until it pops past the thread and hit the seat, only now the flare is bent and the nut is trying to straighten the flare back out. Thus the need for "craze tight" and leaks.

Skip all of that crap and do it the easy way.

Go to AutoZone and get the nickle/copper brake line 25ft roll. You still have to do the flares the same, but this stuff is soft, your gramma can make the flare. And bending to fit is easy. With you fingers, you can adjust the angle at the wheel cylinder so the the tube is exactly where is needs to be. This stuff will not rust either. I will never go back to regular brake line.

[66_k10_manny]

Thanks for the info guys. Im gonna trying torquing down the nuts. Ha HA, He said NUTS! And if that doesnt work, a trip to Autozone is in order.

[66_k10_manny]

All sealed up, no leaks! Thanks!
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