Looked at a 61 and 63 GMC pickups today..

[tkeduk8r]

I wish I had pics but I dont... didnt feel right taking pictures at the guys place... Looking for insight into what a guy should pay for them...

The first is a 75K original 61 c20 sm window Custom cab... baby blue and white...305V6, SM420 with hand brake, correct radio, still has the 17.5 inch steelies and a complete set of correct clip on style hubcaps... Was owned by the same couple since 1963... no pb or pb, and the cab corners and rockers are gone as usual here in MN, but the bed is IMMACCULATE allthe way around... had a camper in it for years... tailgate is a 7.5 out of 10... no bed trim though... dunno why... chrome/aluminium bumper and grill are mint... iits a coil spring rear with nice trailing arms and looks to be a D60... still has the spiral shocks, but did they offer a D60 in 61??? thought they were only eatons..its been in the garage since 1990... notebook in glove box has every tank of gas put into the truck since 1968, and only 66 miles on the last tank put in in '90...

Second is a 1963 Custom GMC c10.. 305V6, Sm420 also, but was a converted 3-tree... has a very unique shift indicator like a PrnDl, but it has 1-1, 1-R, 1-2,1-3 embossed on it... at first i tought original powerglide column, but this looks like a factory GM part, not a homemade deal...jus tnever seen one before... The truck has its rust too in the cab corners, rockers and fenders, and I think it was a factory bbw cab, BUT they adapted a 70-72 slider into the opening with two pieces of sheet metal and siliconed the *** out of it.... factory opening wasnt hurt it didnt look like... bed is nice with just one dent, but has all the trim, and so does the cab.... taligate is dented, but not bowed... this one also has a factory radio and knobs as well, and a day/nite rearview...

any ideas or other things i may have missed... the guy wants to sell both together and he is a die hard ford guy, so he really has no interest in these.. but i dont think they are stealable either... any ideas????

[Eagar1]

IMHO the 63 has more potential, as you get all the nice styling of the older trucks but easier to do the suspension and steering mods on, but it depends on what you want to make it into. Of course I have a 63 so I am biased =).
I had a 62 that rode very nice on the torsion bar suspension.
I got a c20 cause I want to tow and haul with it so again depends on what you want it to do.
Pics would be nice.

[Corts60]

Of course we are all biased on our own year of trucks so I would go with the '61. I LOVE the trailing arm and torsion bar suspensions. They are very comfortable to ride in. It also sounds like the '63 has been molested a little more than the '61.

Also, on a side note, GMC's 1/2 tons are called 1000 (C-10) and 3/4 tons are 1500 (C-20)......unless it has a 9 ft bed then it is a 2500.

Pics would definitely help us determine prices...

[padresag]

sounds like a hydramatic trans
ron

[markeb01]

The shifter sounds bizzare, never seen anything like that. GMC's with automatics had Oldsmobile Hydramatics, but the only shift pattern I've every seen is N D 2 1 R, or something like this. Reverse is always on the bottom, which caused a lot of accidents, and lawsuits against GM, and was the standard for years due to the cost to change everything to get reverse off the bottom of the pattern. The driveability problem normally occured when a person was descending a hill with a heavy load and was driving in low gear. The vehicle would go too fast, so the driver would pull down into low, and already being there would shift into reverse instead. It was very entertaining, as I was in a car when my dad performed this very drill.

The rear axle is most likely a Dana 44. It's the only axle I've seen in GMC's of this vintage. They may have offered a D60, but I've never seen one. The covers are the same shape except for size.

On the overall question, I'd suggest there are two basic question that should lead to the solution:
1. What do you want to do to/with the truck when it's finished, and -
2. Condition. It's the same rule that applies to real estate - location, location, location. With trucks of this vintage it's condition, condition, condition.

If you want a restored truck you are going to haul things in, go to the dumps, drive to local car shows, etc - the 60-62 chassis is just fine. In fact it's more expensive, stronger and better built than the 63-66 design. The torsion bar suspension provides an excellent ride and offers adjustable ride height. It will cost more to restore since the replacement parts all cost more than the newer items. Ball joints, wheel bearings, steering linkage, etc. If it's bent, it will be much harder to repair since it is essentially a convertible frame and very rigid. If it's straight, it will no doubt stay that way forever unless it's wrecked. I have seen the later frames bend in the middle when a heavy camper was loaded, allowing the camper to lean forward and touch the cab.

If you want a street rod, this chassis is not the best choice. In order to upgrade to disc brakes the easiest method is to change the entire front crossmember, suspension and steering linkage to the 73-87 design. With the 63-66 this isn't necessary, you can add the later parts to the existing crossmember.

Virtually everything hot rod related in the aftermarket is exclusively for the 63 and newer. If you want air suspension and dropped ride, the newer chassis is an easier and cheaper way to go. And yes, there are exceptions to everything, but with the earlier chassis it's up to you to figure it all out. I have a 1960 so I've been there.

The condition of which rig you choose (assuming you can't afford to get both) will set the tone for the rest of the project, no matter which chassis you select. Rust repair is expensive, so the least you can get by with will really save in the long run.

Last consideration is the small or big back window. The big back window is highly desirable now, but was never all that popular when new, which is why they are so rare now. Riding around in front of all that glass will roast your back and neck, which is part of why the small back window was always more popular. But if the bbw is what you want, that should be a major priority as converting a small window to a bbw is major surgery or cab replacement. If it's important to have the bbw go that way now and save yourself headaches in the future.

Good luck.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by markeb01

The shifter sounds bizzare, never seen anything like that. GMC's with automatics had Oldsmobile Hydramatics, but the only shift pattern I've every seen is N D 2 1 R, or something like this. Reverse is always on the bottom, which caused a lot of accidents, and lawsuits against GM, and was the standard for years due to the cost to change everything to get reverse off the bottom of the pattern. The driveability problem normally occured when a person was descending a hill with a heavy load and was driving in low gear. The vehicle would go too fast, so the driver would pull down into low, and already being there would shift into reverse instead. It was very entertaining, as I was in a car when my dad performed this very drill.

The rear axle is most likely a Dana 44. It's the only axle I've seen in GMC's of this vintage. They may have offered a D60, but I've never seen one. The covers are the same shape except for size.

On the overall question, I'd suggest there are two basic question that should lead to the solution:
1. What do you want to do to/with the truck when it's finished, and -
2. Condition. It's the same rule that applies to real estate - location, location, location. With trucks of this vintage it's condition, condition, condition.

If you want a restored truck you are going to haul things in, go to the dumps, drive to local car shows, etc - the 60-62 chassis is just fine. In fact it's more expensive, stronger and better built than the 63-66 design. The torsion bar suspension provides an excellent ride and offers adjustable ride height. It will cost more to restore since the replacement parts all cost more than the newer items. Ball joints, wheel bearings, steering linkage, etc. If it's bent, it will be much harder to repair since it is essentially a convertible frame and very rigid. If it's straight, it will no doubt stay that way forever unless it's wrecked. I have seen the later frames bend in the middle when a heavy camper was loaded, allowing the camper to lean forward and touch the cab.

If you want a street rod, this chassis is not the best choice. In order to upgrade to disc brakes the easiest method is to change the entire front crossmember, suspension and steering linkage to the 73-87 design. With the 63-66 this isn't necessary, you can add the later parts to the existing crossmember.

Virtually everything hot rod related in the aftermarket is exclusively for the 63 and newer. If you want air suspension and dropped ride, the newer chassis is an easier and cheaper way to go. And yes, there are exceptions to everything, but with the earlier chassis it's up to you to figure it all out. I have a 1960 so I've been there.

The condition of which rig you choose (assuming you can't afford to get both) will set the tone for the rest of the project, no matter which chassis you select. Rust repair is expensive, so the least you can get by with will really save in the long run.

Last consideration is the small or big back window. The big back window is highly desirable now, but was never all that popular when new, which is why they are so rare now. Riding around in front of all that glass will roast your back and neck, which is part of why the small back window was always more popular. But if the bbw is what you want, that should be a major priority as converting a small window to a bbw is major surgery or cab replacement. If it's important to have the bbw go that way now and save yourself headaches in the future.

Good luck.

I have see a 62 GMC with that shift pattern and it is sitting only a few mi. from where I am located
ron

[markeb01]

Hi padresag, are you referring to the 1-1, 1-r, 1-2, 1-3 pattern? I'm curious, it sounds like there might be a two speed rear axle or something that allows split shifts. I've just never seen this in this series truck, but am always anxious to learn more. I'm wondering what those numbers refer to. Regards.

[padresag]

Originally Posted by markeb01

Hi padresag, are you referring to the 1-1, 1-r, 1-2, 1-3 pattern? I'm curious, it sounds like there might be a two speed rear axle or something that allows split shifts. I've just never seen this in this series truck, but am always anxious to learn more. I'm wondering what those numbers refer to. Regards.

it is similiar to that . it is in a 3/4 t 2 w/dr. It is a hydramatic as I had a look at it as there was no eng in it. I will look into it as I thought that it may be forr sale, but I have enough crap as it is now
ron

[slepysal]

what are they asking for them ?

[Captainfab]

The Dana 60's were an option in the 3/4 ton 60's trucks, but I have not seen them on a coil spring suspension prior to '71. I've mostly seen them in K20's