SBC -S10 Motor mount Question

[hawks000]

This is probably an easy question to ya'll , but to me (yes I'm a newbie) and I have never done a SBC on an S10 Frame before. A friend of mine has a 1947 Truck and wanted a SBC in it . I thought Id give it try , everything was going good until ,I got to the motor mounts... The SBC Combo he decided to go with is a 283 with a mechanical Fuel pump So here is why I am asking for your help ... I can NOT figure out which motor mounts will work that I can buy that will work.

Can someone provide me the correct set , maybe even a link ?

Thanks in advance

[Rickysnickers]

Check out this thread. It might help you out quite a bit.

https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=632686

[Tempest67]

When I put a SBC in my S10 frame, I thought I would be smart and use a kit that would make things easy, , and save me from having to make my own mounts.

So I purchased this https://www.summitracing.com/parts/trd-9906

Well, the passenger side did not fit the S10 bolt pattern in the frame, and after putting stock SBC exhaust manifolds on, I see I need to raise the engine about 3/4 of an inch, as they are just touching the upper control arm. (maybe headers would clear it?)

This is a project for this winter.

Sorry, can't help you on what to buy, but hopefully helped on what not to buy.

[joedoh]

get a block off plate and use an electric pump. if that doesnt sound appealing you may need to cut a hole in the frame for the mechanical pump.

a v8 needs moved back about 4" from the stock s10 location of the v6, some guys use s10 v8 swap mounts and turn them around but for 10 bucks you can get some 70s chevelle engine side motor mounts at the parts store, and for another 10 you can get some pipe and steel to make your own frame side to match up to the engine side.

the mounts you make need to be about 16.25" apart on center, and be sure to offset the engine slightly to the passenger side for steering shaft clearance. the trans mount will move back about 7" from the stock s10 location, so if you move the trans mount back first you can hang the engine in the space and make mounts that fit. skymangs thread is a great tutorial.

if you are looking for a tab a slot b solution you may not find a set of mounts that will just bolt (or weld) in the right spot. there are a lot of variables, like how high you mount the engine, how high you mount the cab, etc.

good luck!

[TravisC]

You could use the Engine mounts that Code504 has.

https://www.code504.com/small-block-...uel-pump-only/

I plan on using their mounts after I decide what engine I am going to run.

Here is a youtube video on the engine mounts they offer

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pWMJkjWoqRY

[dsraven]

like joedoh advises, get the engine and trans in the truck where you want it so you have clearance for other systems and go from there building something. jack the unit up at your rake angle desired, block it up sturdy and level side to side, build a trans mount or, like joedoh says,use a stock one that you can just slide back for now but will hold the trans up, then mock up the other systems or at least think how they will have room to be installed-like steering column-exhaust-starter, then do a line up check to ensure the drive line is parallel to the truck frame so you don't get a shudder later, check the pinion angle and relate that to the engine/trans down angle so you also don't get a shudder later, bolt up some stock gm engine mounts to the block and make some cardboard patterns to connect them to the frame. the 4.3 v6 engine is simply a sbc with 2 cylinders lopped off so you could use a stock S10 4.3 mount and make patterns to get them connected to the frame. then take the patterns to a welding shop and have them made for you. probably no more than ordering a set that is full of slots and holes to fit everything from a v8 Kia swap to a rotary engine in a lawnmower, lol. try to use a non corrugated cardboard like poster board or some masonite type stuff that will mimic steel for non bending and that way not allow discrepancies. poster board for a general rough shape and then transfer that to the masonite for a firm final pattern. this will give the welding shop a better chance to finish up with a better product for you. mark the holes etc so they can be drilled for you and mark indexing on each piece so they know how part A fits with part B. if you really want to get after it you can pre-make all the parts and simply have them welded for you. an angle grinder with a metal cutting blade or zip disc will work wonders or a recip saw will get the general shape but be a little rougher around the edges.
personally I like the lennox metal max discs because they don't have a tendency to disintegrate while using them and they also don't get smaller as you use them.
https://www.lenoxtools.com/pages/lenox-metalmax.aspx
for recip blades ensure to get something made for steel with the number of teeth per inch needed for the thickness of metal you decide on. I also like to spray some soapy water on the blade while cutting to help with friction and heat that destroys the teeth quickly. being a retired firefighter I tend to opt for the fire and rescue blades as that is what I know works well.
post up some pics if you get a minute, so we can see what you have.

[dsraven]

oh yeah, ditch the mechanical pump if it doesn't fit. install an inline pump on the frame rail along with an inline filter. some basic units are pretty cheap, easy to connect and hook up electrically. just be sure to fuse the power at the source and connect to an oil pressure switch so it quits when the engine shuts off. install a "fuel pump prime" switch so you can prime the carb if needed. also run a relay. I included a link from motor trend that shows how to wire an oil pressure switch, from back in the carbed days, so it will power the fuel pump when you crank the engine and then as long as the engine is running and producing oil pressure the power stays on to the fuel pump. if the engine dies then so does the power to the fuel pump.

https://www.holley.com/products/fuel...ic_fuel_pumps/

https://www.motortrend.com/how-to/sa...l-pump-wiring/