68 c10 6.5 turbo diesel

[marvgarr68]

I am starting my build and I'm going to post it all right here. It's a 68 c10 long box originally had a 250 6 in it and 3 spd column shift. Dad bought this truck when I was 3 there is sentimental value. I am putting a 6.5 turbo diesel its a 1995 it will be modified. It's going to get arp head studs all new bearings,rings,etc it will have a holset hx 35 turbo also. I already got a mech 1993 6.5 pump for it and I'm going to tweak it boost will be a mild 27 psi. The trans and this is were a lot of people will fuss its a t5 that I modified and built. This is a combo that I have not seen anyone do if it blows o well this is more of a test anyways. The truck has all poly bushings and cab mounts and will have poly engine mounts. Anyone that I have seen do a 6.5/6.2 swap uses big block mount stands which raises the engine up. For anyone going to do this swap you can use your original engine stands unless they are 6 cyl ones. All that has to be modified is the L mount stand you just cut out the rib and weld a piece of 1"/1 1/2" angle in. Also you have to use a 6.2 non turbo exhaust manifold on the L side to use the mech clutch linkage. The engine sits in there like it belongs not to high like the bb stands oil pan clears just fine too. The truck has a 3.73 gear and with the overdrive it will cruise real nice. I'm lowering it 3 in the front and 6 in the rear if your wondering why only 3 in the front it is because of the additional weight. This is a cruise truck not a race truck that's why a t5 cheap and reliable if not abused plus has overdrive. Pictures are coming
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[marvgarr68]

here are pics of the L turbo manifold and why it will not work also pic of L engine stand and why it needs to be modified

[marvgarr68]

here are pics of engine in truck just the block/heads/turbo/manifolds also pic of modified L engine stand

[marvgarr68]

here are pics on R engine stand and clearence on manifold also top pick of L stand and manifold clearence and pic of trans/bellhousing/motor with cab off

[WIDESIDE72]

The 6.5 will make a great cruiser! I had an 82 sub with a 6.2, 340k miles when i sold rthe engine. Buyer knew more about the quality/ desirabilty of the 82/83 red 6.2 than i did at the time, but i got $1k for engine only, still made as much power as it ever did (not alot) but didnt use any oil even at 340k miles! Just dont try to tow more than a 14ft flat bottom boat with it. South texas was once littered with 6.5 td trucks with broken cranks from trying to tow loaded cattle trailers. That is Duramax territory now!
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[marvgarr68]

Originally Posted by WIDESIDE72

The 6.5 will make a great cruiser! I had an 82 sub with a 6.2, 340k miles when i sold rthe engine. Buyer knew more about the quality/ desirabilty of the 82/83 red 6.2 than i did at the time, but i got $1k for engine only, still made as much power as it ever did (not alot) but didnt use any oil even at 340k miles! Just dont try to tow more than a 14ft flat bottom boat with it. South texas was once littered with 6.5 td trucks with broken cranks from trying to tow loaded cattle trailers. That is Duramax territory now!
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Yea the older 6.5 had block and crank issues that's why I got a late model block. They are long lasting when taken care of. This motor had 0 maintenance done you can see the sludge on the heads.
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[67_C-30]

I'm just saying this to save you a lot of trouble - but you are not going to be able to run 27 psi without lower compression pistons. The factory 20.3 : 1 CR of the 6.5 will take that much boost. At the very least, you need some thicker head gaskets to lower CR. Cometic makes them for these engines, but they are kinda pricey. Still cheaper than pistons though...

Good luck with your build. I put a turbo'd 6.2 in my '67 C-30 and at 12 psi, it will smoke all 4 rear tires in 2nd gear.

[marvgarr68]

Sorry I did not put all that I am doing to the motor. The pistons are going to be milled .030 for lower compression this will put it around 18-1. The marine 6.5 runs 18-1 and lots of boost headgaskets will be felpro and head studs. This build is fun and will turn heads I am painting motor chevy orange with chrome valve covers. When the hood is opened it will look like a gas engine with a turbo but with a closer look you will see its a diesel.

[Katrina/10]

Cool engine swap, good luck with it

[marvgarr68]

Originally Posted by Katrina/10

Cool engine swap, good luck with it

Thanks I appreciate that
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[jbclassix]

subscribing

[hugger6933]

I had a 1/2 ton 89 Silverado I pulled my racecar and countless wrecks with. It had 120k on it when Irebuilt it from a wreck and put another 270k on it before I put it out to pasture and didnt use for quite a while. Once I needed it I tried to start it it never would pick up fuel ,instead of a tuneup I put in a 5.3 4 l60 e I had laying around. I loved that 6.2 I had some 6.5's and the 95 were the worst model but I see you have already addressed that with changing the pump to a better one so the problem is gone. Enjoy being different with that one. Jim

[67_C-30]

Originally Posted by marvgarr68

Sorry I did not put all that I am doing to the motor. The pistons are going to be milled .030 for lower compression this will put it around 18-1. The marine 6.5 runs 18-1 and lots of boost headgaskets will be felpro and head studs. This build is fun and will turn heads I am painting motor chevy orange with chrome valve covers. When the hood is opened it will look like a gas engine with a turbo but with a closer look you will see its a diesel.

Oh OK, I just wanted you know that 27 psi with stock CR would end badly if you didn't know that! Good luck with it and I look forward to seeing it painted orange. I painted mine Detroit Diesel Alpine green and it certainly looks cooler than a plain old black 6.2/6.5.

IT LIVES! 6.2L Turbo Diesel in '67 C-30 dually...

[marvgarr68]

Thanks for all the compliments. I did fix the old issue with the electronic injection pump I solved that problem by throwing it away! I needed the mechanical injection pump anyway to adjust the fuel.
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[marvgarr68]

Picked up the L side exhaust manifold from a 6.2 today. I'm putting it on tommorow and figuring out the clutch z bar bracket also. I'll post pics tommorow
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[special-K]

This sounds like a great project

[Lemield]

I've got a 6.2 turbo diesel in my 71 K20. It's a nice conversion and it works well. 18 MPG....can't complain about that.

[marvgarr68]

the fuel mileage is one reason for the swap the other because its different

[Lemield]

I think that the 6.2 and 6.5 diesels do not get the respect they deserve. They are not powerhouses but they move these trucks around pretty well.
Good luck on your project.

[marvgarr68]

Thank you and you are correct they do not get any respect. When treated right these motors outlast the truck and have plenty of power. Here are pics you can see how the 6.2 manifold clears the back of the block. The third pic you can see the hole in the bellhousing on engine were im going to mount z bar stud. The last pic is with z bar in hole and you can see how much the frame mount needs to be moved. I am going to shorten the linkage from pedal to z bar and put a bend in the end down to z bar. Looks like all will connect and work like factory.

[c10seth]

Looking forward to seeing this thing finished.

[marvgarr68]

Here are the pics of the clutch linkage I made/modified. The bracket on the frame is tack welded to the frame for now. I am going to bolt it down once I remove the cab again. I had to cut the linkage from pedal to z bar and welded it at an angle as you can see. I also cut a piece of metal for support and welded on rod. I also cut lower rod for proper operation.

[marvgarr68]

I got the 6 inch drop rear springs in from ECE. I also removed the cab and drilled and mounted the z bar bracket on frame. Sorry about the fly in the pic

[67_C-30]

I had to space mine up, but I used BBC mounts, so that may be the difference.

[marvgarr68]

BBC mounts do raise it up alot. I didn't like how much it raised it up that's why I stuck with the sbc mounts. All in all the mods worked out well I'm happy with it.
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