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10-12-2024, 07:14 PM | #1 |
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Location: Chehalis, WA
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Rag joint replacement - move steering shaft further back?
I'm replacing my steering box. When I took the old one off, I was able to just tap the rag joint back and off the splined input shaft.
The new box is in but there's not enough clearance on the steering shaft to get the rag joint on. The new rag joint is about 1/4" thicker overall and that's just enough to make it so I can't get it on. I push the shaft back but it's hitting a hard stop. Is there any easy way to get more clearance so I can put the rag joint on? Really, really, really don't want to take the box out again. |
10-13-2024, 02:11 AM | #2 |
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Location: Elkhart, Texas
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Re: Rag joint replacement - move steering shaft further back?
I've seen replacement rag joints that were a bit thicker, but not a 1/4" thicker. Loosen the 2 bolts holding the column under the dash and the clamp at the firewall.. Slide the column up enough to get the clearance you need.
Last edited by RustyPile; 10-13-2024 at 02:50 PM. Reason: Add information |
10-15-2024, 10:54 AM | #3 |
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Re: Rag joint replacement - move steering shaft further back?
Thanks, taking a swing at that today. Looks like it's more involved than just the clamp and bracket, but I'll start there.
Otherwise I'll need to pull the box out at least a bit to allow me to slip it over the splines and then move back. Yeah, I was surprised it was so much bigger - the clamp is the part that's longer... |
10-15-2024, 07:09 PM | #4 | |
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Re: Rag joint replacement - move steering shaft further back?
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10-15-2024, 10:02 PM | #5 | |
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Re: Rag joint replacement - move steering shaft further back?
Quote:
I don't think it's the WRONG one, but it may not be a GOOD one. That's the biggest issue these days...lousy parts that don't fit. This is the part: https://www.summitracing.com/parts/LSC-201 If someone has a better part number, I'm all ears. I did look at the OER part for this and it was totally different. I attached a couple of pics. It's just maybe an 1/8" too tall...but that is just enough to keep it from slipping over the splined shaft. You can kinda see that the clamp is taller - not much, but just a bit. This is what the issue is. I'm halfway temped to clean up the old one and put it on, but... |
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10-15-2024, 11:20 PM | #6 |
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Re: Rag joint replacement - move steering shaft further back?
I'd be more convinced it's an inferior part rather than a wrong part. Your method of measurement is flawed.. The length of those 2 "safety bolts" don't enter into the equation, except they will interfere with installation if they're too long.. Measure from the center of the clamp bolt to the point where the mid shaft flange contacts the joint.. This measurement should be very equal on both parts.
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10-15-2024, 11:32 PM | #7 |
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Re: Rag joint replacement - move steering shaft further back?
The picture is kind of misleading - but the studs are the same length so they're not throwing off the measurement. The clamp height that is the issue as said before.
At this point I'm just going to move the box and get it on - fastest path forward. I can just loosen it enough to slip the coupler over the shaft, then slide the column down. Not excited about it, but there it is Last edited by Willshook; 10-16-2024 at 11:31 AM. |
11-09-2024, 02:28 PM | #8 |
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Re: Rag joint replacement - move steering shaft further back?
FWIW, in the end I just had to use a pry bar and more force than felt comfortable to get the edge over the spline...but it's on. Had to sort of walk it on to get the flat aligned, then open up the pinch clamp a bit to get it to slide on.
A few things that might be helpful if anyone finds themselves in this spot. The steering box is the same from '67-'77; this helps open the search when looking for the coupler. This steering box has "Large Input (13/16"), 30 Splines w/ 1 Flat (Need 36 Spline Coupler)" https://www.larescorp.com/Part/201 is the "correct" part and of good quality, but as noted it's *just* enough taller that I wasn't able to use the slack in the steering column to fit the coupler over the input shaft. Maybe something unique to my beat-up old farm truck, but there it is. This is the one I ended up installing, using a pry bar to get every bit of slack out of the shaft tensioner to get over the shaft. https://www.summitracing.com/parts/o...ckup/year/1972 is also a good quality part and seems to be basically the same as the Dorman below. Still taller than stock, and the Lares. https://www.dormanproducts.com/p-23848-31011.aspx is spec'd for '73-87 trucks, but as noted the same box was used 67-77. This is of good quality as well...but is even taller than the Lares. |
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