Manual to power break conversion - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

Mr.C · 12-01-2011, 10:26 PM

Question: on a 71 C10 with manual disc breaks do you just need to add a booster/proportioning valve or will I also need a new master cylinder? And who sells the "most bang for the buck" parts out there?

Thanks in advance, Mike

dmack91 · 12-02-2011, 12:59 AM

If all you are doing is adding a power booster, your original master cylinder and prop. valve should work fine.

I did the swap on mine (drums all around though) and it should be the same. Just got a used booster with all the mounting brackets and linkages. Took less than an hour and is the best mod I have done on the truck.

There are some threads on it (maybe in the FAQ section). Best suggestion was to connect the bolt from the pushrod to the brake pedal with the booster not bolted in yet, as it allowed the rod to drop low enough to get to the bolt.

Also, be careful bending the brake lines to the mc and it will work fine.

Here is the link to the FAQ:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=221598

mcmlxix · 12-02-2011, 02:12 AM

http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=347484

The MC from a power brake is different then a non power brake MC. The depth of the hole where the pushrod sits is different. I believe the non power is deep and the power is shallow. ( I may have this reversed)

Plus, if its original from the truck, just get a new unit. Not much money and you know its new.

12-01-2011, 10:26 PM	#1
Mr.C Registered User Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Plymouth, WI Posts: 174	Manual to power break conversion Question: on a 71 C10 with manual disc breaks do you just need to add a booster/proportioning valve or will I also need a new master cylinder? And who sells the "most bang for the buck" parts out there? Thanks in advance, Mike __________________ How about you go over and introduce yourself, build me up, that way I don't have to brag about myself later.

12-02-2011, 12:59 AM	#2
dmack91 Registered User Join Date: Jan 2011 Location: Redmond, OR Posts: 756	Re: Manual to power break conversion If all you are doing is adding a power booster, your original master cylinder and prop. valve should work fine. I did the swap on mine (drums all around though) and it should be the same. Just got a used booster with all the mounting brackets and linkages. Took less than an hour and is the best mod I have done on the truck. There are some threads on it (maybe in the FAQ section). Best suggestion was to connect the bolt from the pushrod to the brake pedal with the booster not bolted in yet, as it allowed the rod to drop low enough to get to the bolt. Also, be careful bending the brake lines to the mc and it will work fine. Here is the link to the FAQ: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=221598 __________________ 68 Chev C20- son has it now 83 K20 - bought from son 70 C20 - in progress

12-02-2011, 02:12 AM	#3
mcmlxix Collector of Projects Join Date: Apr 2003 Location: Las Vegas Posts: 3,106	Re: Manual to power break conversion http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=347484 The MC from a power brake is different then a non power brake MC. The depth of the hole where the pushrod sits is different. I believe the non power is deep and the power is shallow. ( I may have this reversed) Plus, if its original from the truck, just get a new unit. Not much money and you know its new. __________________ Rich 1972 K5 Blazer CST Click HERE D60 BIG BRAKE UPGRADE Click HERE



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