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#1 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,713
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Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
I've got a little problem I could use some experienced opinions on.
My girlfriends truck, Chevy, the heater hose pipe fitting broke off at the intake. The threads are still in the intake manifold. I know I should just take the intake manifold off and take it to a machine shop to have the thing fixed. However, I am just too broke at the moment and just wanting to try a down and dirty approach. My first idea is to simply "sleeve" the broken fitting with some 1/2" OD copper tubing. I would either use J.B. Weld or another gasket maker than is waterproof (i.e. liquid resistance to antifreeze.) My second idea is that if I am going to "sleeve" using the copper tubing, why not just extend it and connect it with a heater hose from the copper tubing to the heater core inlet. Last edited by lil hoodlum; 12-22-2011 at 08:43 PM. Reason: wrong word |
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#2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,713
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
My first idea using a copper tubing to "sleeve" the broken fitting back together.
J.B. Weld. ![]() Other Gasket Sealant made by VersaChem, Type 1 Keith |
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#3 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,713
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Second idea.
Using a legnth of copper tubing, J. B.welded or gasket sealant afixed to intake manifold. Attach heater hose to heater core and copper tubing. I was considering Soldering the copper tubing to the broken fitting/ intake manifold. I'm not sure that is a good idea because of the contamination of the old pipe fitting. Does that sound correct, that both pieces should be free of contaminets in order to make a leak proof seal? Thank you for your time and consideration! Keith |
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#4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 1,241
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Man that sucks. I've heard that the TBI engines are notorious for this. Those quick connects are just another "lets hurry up and get them down the assembly line" issue from GM. Your JB Weld trick might work but you will need a good clean area to work with. When you are able to fix it correclty I'd recomend putting a pipe nipple in there and running rubber hose with the old fashioned hose clamp.
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Bud |
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#5 |
Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: Des Moines, IA
Posts: 1,241
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Plug the hole on the intake and spray real good with carb cleaner. Antifreeze is a lubricant so the fitting needs to be free of it as you stated above.
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Bud |
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#6 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,713
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Quote:
Thank you for your input! ![]() Keith |
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#7 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: blacksburg,s.c.
Posts: 155
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
those pot metal fitting are bad to do that, get you the 9.00 replacment fitting at the chevy place, you need to get that old stuff out and fix it correctly, no jb weld stuff only asking for problems,,,i took a dremel tool and slowly opened it up till the 1/2 pipe tap would start then i just retaped the hole, took a while but it worked for me, good luck
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#8 |
Still Learning
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Oklahoma
Posts: 10,108
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Man, I would get an ez-out that fits the hole closely. Heat it up the intake around the fitting with a hair dryer or a heat shrink type heat gun. Then just try easing the left over fitting out.
![]() If that doesn't work you can stuff a small rag inside the fitting then cut through the fitting with a die grinder on both sides being careful not to get shaving inside the manifold (that's what the rag is for). Be careful not to cut throught the threads. Then just break the fitting in two pieces and unscrew what's left. I have done a ton of these kind of repairs. If you have time to wait I will send you an ez out. You don't need to take the manifold off to get that thing out. Or take it to a machine shop. Use one of these once you get it out. ![]() |
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#9 |
He's got mean nasty FANGS!
![]() Join Date: Dec 1999
Location: Rockwell, NC
Posts: 6,509
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
I've had good luck using Pipe ez outs before. I've also had to use a hacksaw blade and a punch to chip it out then retap it with a 1/2" pipe tap...
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2004 K2500 Burb 1999 C3500 1985 Cutlass Supreme 1969 C-10 1967 C-10 Panel josh@67-72chevytrucks.com |
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#10 | |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2009
Location: Denton, Texas
Posts: 1,713
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Quote:
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#11 |
Still Learning
Join Date: Jul 2009
Location: Central Oklahoma
Posts: 10,108
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Keith,
Seriously, you can handle this. Pipe ez-out like Josh said is a good choice. That fitting is made out of a cast metal probably cast aluminum. It should come out pretty easy with a little heat applied. If you have a huge srewdriver or chisel that you can wedge in there and try turning, it might come right out? Update here when you get it out. Please don't hesitate to ask for my help. BTW, it sounds like you have your GF covered ![]()
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Mike "69 Short Wide" My Project 86 Silverado Landen's Project Instagram: @mcbassin My Website C/10 Club Oklahoma Facebook Group Last edited by mcbassin; 12-22-2011 at 09:41 PM. |
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#12 |
Registered User
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Marianna Arkansas
Posts: 7,269
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
I have had this happen to me at least ten times as most trucks from 87 to 98 had this problem. My best advise is to try the E_Zout and then retap 1/2 pipe thread. That way you had planned would probably leak,[I know it would if I were to try it]and I 'm not to sure about soldering to dissimilar metals. The pipe end that is broken off is rotten , you mat want to try a cape point chisel and tap around on that thing I have tried that with a great deal of success. That fitting as I have said is rotten and brittle it may fall apart with just a littlee help. You want to do this on the cheap you can buy that nipple at the parts store or hardware store for just a couple of bucks or less. Good luck
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#13 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2011
Location: Lynn Haven Florida
Posts: 1,019
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
The E-Z OUT is the best way and help line at parts store makes the same fitting to screw back in
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#14 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2010
Location: Edmonton, Alberta
Posts: 3,847
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Haha, I just did this repair on my 98 this weekend.
I used a square style e-z out, the bottom portion came out with a little work. Just take your time. Make sure you pound the e-z out in squarely. The new nipple I bought from NAPA was only $14.00. It has also been redesigned for better function. It is also made out of better material.
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#15 |
Registered User
Join Date: May 2011
Location: mich
Posts: 655
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Man, I would get an ez-out that fits the hole closely. Heat it up the intake around the fitting with a hair dryer or a heat shrink type heat gun. Then just try easing the left over fitting out.
Yep thats the ticket right there |
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#16 |
Registered User
Join Date: Dec 2009
Location: DFW, TX
Posts: 764
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
That is a very common issue on those. Get you a jig saw blade for metal and a pair of vise grips and just saw a slot in the pot metal fitting. You can saw two slots if you want across form each other. Lightly tap it with a screw driver after you cut the slots and it will fall apart. Done it many times. No need to re tap. Just don't cut too deep. All you need to cut is the pot metal fitting. You do not need to cut all the way through the threads. Shouldn't take you more than 5 minutes.
The replacement fittings from the auto parts are steel and not pot metal. You will not have the same issue with the replacement. If you want to spend money you can buy an air saw instead of using a jig saw blade with vise grips for a handle. http://www.harborfreight.com/high-sp...saw-91753.html
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72 Cheyenne Super 1/2 LWB White/Dark Yellow 07 Avalanche 2LT 74 Sleek Craft Rebel Jet Boat W/Pontiac 400 Last edited by OhOneWS6; 12-22-2011 at 11:25 PM. |
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#17 |
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Join Date: Jun 2011
Location: Richmond,Va
Posts: 2,934
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
My vote is with OhOneWS6, use a hack saw blade to cut two slits 180* from each other. Use a punch, chisel or a screwdriver to knock the two halves loose from the threads.
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#18 |
Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: San Antonio, Texas
Posts: 1,374
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Wow... I still have the original on my Suburban. I think I'll go pull it off and replace it before I end up in the same boat.
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1972 C10 LWB, 350/350 Deconstruction began 5/2009, mostly completed restoration, 5/2017 |
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#19 |
Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2010
Location: ND
Posts: 520
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Anybody that works on these for a living has a special tool that removes the broken piece with ease. Maybe you have a friend or a old classmate or someone you know that is a mechanic or works at the local chevy garage that could loan you the tool? It has some strait groves in it that are sharp and tapered. You beat it in with a hammer like an easy out but it works 10 times better. The replacements are better but I still consider it a serviceable item, like when the coolant is changed replace it. Keeps the head pains at ease.
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#20 |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Toppenish, WA
Posts: 15,507
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
I've done that on several. Take a hacksaw blade and cut the fitting in several places until you just get to the threads but don't cut into the threads if at all possible. Then take the punch and knock out a section and fold the next section in a bit and move to the next one and move it a bit an the last one then use a pair of plyers to unscrew that part out of the manifold. I did it a bunch of times on broken risers on wheel lines when I worked on a dairy farm.
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#21 |
Registered User
![]() Join Date: Oct 2011
Location: Victoria, B.C
Posts: 3,794
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....promise me that you won't try to repair this with JB weld.
I agree with the guys here with the take your time and do it right approach. You shouldn't have to remove the manifold or anything along that lines. Plug the hole, soak it with the right lubricant, tap it a few times, heat it up, spray it again, tap it a few times...leave it overnight. Get the right EZ-out and a cup of coffee...take your time, nice and slow a bit at time. You'll be done and in the clear before you know it. ![]() Good Luck Coley
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#22 |
Registered User
Join Date: Nov 2011
Location: Colorado Springs
Posts: 9
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
They make a tool for removing that. most auto stores have it.
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#23 |
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Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Apison Tn
Posts: 490
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
Coley hit the nail on the head
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#24 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jan 2003
Location: daytonabeach
Posts: 22,956
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Re: Shade tree mechanics at their best. Your opinion please!
something worth doing is worth doing well
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#25 |
Scrapper 1
Join Date: Jan 2007
Location: Riverside Calif
Posts: 1,649
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thats why i hate them new chevy engines there too bridal.I know the 305 and the 350 use the same intake manifold best off is to find one and get new gaskets and get on down the road. I take it you don't Run distill water in your engine. Alum intakes and other parts that come into contact with the water in your engine dose not like that tap water to many minerals.Loves to eat any thing Alum brass or copper.And if you live back in the cold states your copper and alum really hate it.
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Tags |
heater core pipe fitting, intake manifold repair, shade tree mechanics |
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