C30 4x4 conversion

[Bueno 68C-10]

I picked up a rust free 67 c30, but no motor or trans. I am wanting to convert it over to a 4x4. Is it easier to convert the original frame? Or is it easier to put the body onto a 73-87 4x4 dually frame? Let me know what you think! Thanks in advance!!

[57taskforce]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=703160&page=6


This is the correct way to do it in my opinion. The 73-87 frames are different and it doesn't come out near as nice as this.

[Bueno 68C-10]

Yeah that looks fairly straight forward! There are a few measurements I'm not sure how you would find.
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[special-K]

Either way works well. Staying with existing frame is nice and clean, but you need to have a 4wd donor or gather a heck of a lot of stuff

[Bueno 68C-10]

Why do people call the 73-87 less clean? Is there that many mounts to move?
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[special-K]

Originally Posted by Bueno 68C-10

Why do people call the 73-87 less clean? Is there that many mounts to move?
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I meant "clean job, meaning less work". Also will look 100% original with no alterations needed. These trucks set on a 73-87 frame nicely, especially a cab & chassis. The only issue with pickups is the bed sits higher due to frame contour, so the cab needs an inch of lift. No biggy there, hardly worth mentioning. Another difference is the later frames are longer in front of the cab, so the frame tips need to be trimmed (unless you are running a custom bumper, such as winch) and the radiator core support needs to be moved back a bit. This presents the issue of providing new mounting farther back. There is no need to straighten or alter the newer frames

I could show you two trucks, one using 67-72 frame and one using newer frame and you couldn't tell, unless you crawled around underneath it.

[Bueno 68C-10]

Ok thanks for the advice!! I just wanted to make sure I saw the big picture before diving in!
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[57taskforce]

Because the frame bends in different places and its hard to get the body bolted up without a body lift in my experience.

[Bueno 68C-10]

With the body lift does the frame stick out very far below the body? Does anybody happen to have a picture?
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[Bueno 68C-10]

I read in one of the threads on this topic that you need to straighten the frame in a certain place. Where is that and is it major?
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[57taskforce]

Your not referring to the e brake cable holes in the front of the 67-72 c-30 frame that need to be filled so you can bolt the spring mounts to the frame are you?

[Bueno 68C-10]

Yeah that must be what it was but that's nothing too major or structural. Thanks!
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[Jeff's bowtie's]

It's not that bad of a job here's pics of how I did mine
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[Jeff's bowtie's]

Another
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[Jeff's bowtie's]

Pic
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[Jeff's bowtie's]

Welded new plate in
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[Jeff's bowtie's]

Pic of finished
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[72MARIO]

Jeff,

did you use 1967-72 spring length or 1973 up ? I am working on building my 1 ton longhorn chassis and not sure what length to use.

[Bueno 68C-10]

Is that where the spring shackle then bolts?
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[Jeff's bowtie's]

Originally Posted by Bueno 68C-10

Is that where the spring shackle then bolts?
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Yes the last pic was with the bushing installed
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[Bueno 68C-10]

How much different are the newer springs compared to the 67-72 springs in length?
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[Jeff's bowtie's]

They are the same length they are for a 72 they are arched to give the 4 inch lift
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[Jeff's bowtie's]

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

Jeff,

did you use 1967-72 spring length or 1973 up ? I am working on building my 1 ton longhorn chassis and not sure what length to use.

Yes I used the brackets from a 69 blazer frame and ordered 4" lift springs for a 72 K/20 for the front
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[special-K]

springs are longer. If you are swapping the whole frame, no biggie. If you use the later springs on the earlier frame it will yield a little bit of lift due to relocating rear shackle mount. The frame continues to drop behind original location, so mounting point will be lower on the frame

[Bueno 68C-10]

Ah I see. Yeah probably I'll just order k20 springs then!