Value guess?

[i82much]

I know there are a lot of variables, but if you were going to look at this today:

http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/3472289693.html

Roughly what number would you have in your head, assuming a halfway decent interior and no obvious mechanical defects?

[71swb4x4]

I get a real bad attitude when I see an ad like that. I mean, is this guy trying to sell the truck? If so, THEN POST A PRICE!!!!!!! I never call on ads like that. I am sure I have missed some deals, but it really gets my goat.

Rant off, if the truck is super solid, I would start at $4,000. I would be VERY happy paying $4,000 for that. It could be worth $10,000, but I would need a lot better pictures, and a much better description to get up to that level.

[i82much]

Thanks. Yeah, it's really hard to gauge. He emailed me back and said he was looking for over 6. I dunno. I mean it can be tough to find a solid truck that hasn't been harshed up, and that one looks like a good candidate.

[Stu Pidd]

I wouldn't consider 6k without a bunch more info.

I'm amazed at the poor quality of some ads on craigslist. There is one truck I'm half-temped to call on, but the ad makes the seller seem like an old grouch who will chew out a buyer for any reason, or maybe no reason at all.

Another one recently had one out-of-focus picture, and the entire text simply says: No text, No email!

Sorry, but if a seller will not take the minimal effort to put in what engine/tranny, or even if its a 1/2 or 3/4 ton, I'll just move on the the next ad.

[i82much]

So let me ask it this way. Say the paint up close has some scratches, some fading, but the truck seems solid rust-wise. Say the interior is a little banged up, maybe a small hole in the seat, maybe the dash is a little rough, but generally complete. What's something like that worth?

I am looking for something to use as a daily driver. I miss driving something with character. I don't want a show truck, I want to lean against the bed to pull stuff out of there without stressing about the paint job. I want to take it hunting. I want to do a little four wheeling (but not lift it). I want to tow my 65 goat if it breaks down. You know, I want ... a truck.

[69GWC]

Should have a bunch of people email him with like $3,000 offers...lol
I hate it when people dont put a price because they no what they want for it.
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[72c10projectc]

Hell for $1 I'll buy it
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[Vintage Windmills]

Since its blue on blue and a K20 I'd say 50,000...at least. j/k but in reality a clean non molested open knuckle disc brake v8 cheyenne K20 won't be cheap. Start with the Vin to confirm that its not a conversion or body swap if that matters to you. Seems like half the 4x4's around here are a mismatch of parts sitting on a 1980's frame. I'd have someone on the board look at it for you if you are serious. If its as good as it looks it will likely take at least 7000 to buy it. Condition is everything

[i82much]

Well, if it's a crate engine, it's not the original engine. At least there is that. So we are not looking at an all-original, restore-it-to-perfect type of truck. What I probably need to do is start hanging out on the forum and learn a little more about these trucks so I can make an informed decision when the right truck comes up.

[SS Tim]

Originally Posted by i82much

...What I probably need to do is start hanging out on the forum and learn a little more about these trucks so I can make an informed decision when the right truck comes up...

This might just be the quote of the year!

[i82much]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

This might just be the quote of the year!

Well, it's kind of the truth. All I really know is I want a 72 or earlier Chevy or GMC, 4x4, enough truck to tow a 65 goat and trailer (probably about 6k). Not a total beater but not a show truck either.

[bronze 72 super]

Just for your information. This truck has Idaho plates on it. The first letter and number (if there is one) means the county in which it is registered in. In this case some where around Lewiston Idaho. No salt used on the roads down there. Mild winter whether. Which means very little rust. I'm from Coeur d' Alene Idaho originally and know the whether in that part of the country. The picture looks like it was taken around Spokane Washington. I would say buy it, if it come from this area originally it should be very sound. I bought my first Chevelle in 1978, in Coeur d' Alene with no rust at all, it was a 1970 modal. Good luck, Mike.

[i82much]

Originally Posted by bronze 72 super

Just for your information. This truck has Idaho plates on it. The first letter and number (if there is one) means the county in which it is registered in. In this case some where around Lewiston Idaho. No salt used on the roads down there. Mild winter whether. Which means very little rust. I'm from Coeur d' Alene Idaho originally and know the whether in that part of the country. The picture looks like it was taken around Spokane Washington. I would say buy it, if it come from this area originally it should be very sound. I bought my first Chevelle in 1978, in Coeur d' Alene with no rust at all, it was a 1970 modal. Good luck, Mike.

Really? That's awesome, seriously good information. I live in Spokane but only been here a couple of years. It still seems like a lot of local trucks have rust problems, I think a lot of farmers have let them sit in the fields over the years and being on top of vegetation is just brutal on a vehicle. Still, that truck in the ad does kind of look like one that might have survived pretty well, I guess that's what drew me to it.

[SS Tim]

Good point there on the rust issue Mike!

i82much I meant that in a good way. Much rather help someone learn than tell someone their 27 owner junkyard refugee is never going to be the pristine stock truck they want to build with a 3k budget.

[i82much]

Originally Posted by SS Tim

Good point there on the rust issue Mike!

i82much I meant that in a good way. Much rather help someone learn than tell someone their 27 owner junkyard refugee is never going to be the pristine stock truck they want to build with a 3k budget.

Oh no worries man, I didn't take it the wrong way. I know all about that deal, my first car was that goat i keep talking about towing. I went all out on that thing even though it really wasn't worth it. If I had to sell I'd lose my *ss, but it was my first car and it's not going anywhere.

[Already Gone]

I've been buying and selling cars.trucks and motorcycles for over 30 years and I've leaqrned one thing. Patience pays and where you are living there are a lot of good solid 67/72's in the Washington, Oregon and Idaho areas. In fact I bought 2 from the Seattle area this past year and already sold both of them. The other good advice that was posted here is learn as much as you can about these trucks and this board is the best place to do that.

[dukcaln]

OMG, I get so pissed when they say make a offer then come back with sh1t like, I dont know maybe $$$$$$ just say what you want up front..... I would say a value from 4k-6k...

[TBONE1964]

Just from the photo, I would say ball park $5,000. I looked at many that look great in the photo and when I see them in person, they need cab corners, cab supports and rockers. Also, you cannot see the inside of the cab from the photo which is prone to rot just above the windshield due to the calk on the roof seem drying out.

Another concern I would have is the steak racks on the bed. That would be an indication that it was used to haul some serious loads and the bed is probably beat up pretty bad, maybe not but it is a good sign.

As bronze 72 super stated, it sounds like a good area if it is originally from that area.

Good Luck

[i82much]

I mean everything is relative. When you compare to Chevelle or Camaro prices, a lot of these old trucks are deals. I think driving an old truck is every bit as cool as driving an old musclecar and to get into something you can drive every day and look halfway decent for 5k or so is pretty awesome, and that's insisting on a 4x4.

[bronze 72 super]

Glad the information was helpfull!! What caught my eye on this thread was I sold my '72 K20 to a guy from Spokane out on Dunn road. It was a some what loaded K20: Cheyenne Super, air, tack and gauges, 4 speed, tilt, A.M. F.M., rear slide, cargo light. Got this from Mel, he told me it come out of the White Salmon Washington area, I think. I thought this might have been it!! Keep a eye out for it. Mike.

[i82much]

Ok folks, been lurking and learning. This truck is still available, sounds like he will let it go for $4500:

http://spokane.craigslist.org/cto/3541694855.html

Mostly rust-free, straight truck. There was one patch made to the very lower part of the driver's door, there are two spots underneath the battery trays where the wheelhousings are rotted, the paint is a little faded and the interior is not great.

With all that, it is a mostly rust-free truck and seems pretty solid. Engine is weak, I think it's got one of those 190 HP crate GM engines, can't get the original block back.

I guess my real question is this - if I jump on this thing and give this guy $4500 for it, will I be able to get back out of it for about that much if I decide not to keep it? What do y'all think?

[So.Cal.Super]

The pictures aren't great, but I don't see that being a "fresh" crate imo

[i82much]

He says he has a receipt for the engine, I don't really doubt the long block itself is new. I think they just used some old valve covers and the old intake without doing anything to dress it up.

[i82much]

Hey not to bug you guys, but if anybody has any more input I am really struggling with this decision. No one can make the decision but me, but I do appreciate any thoughts you might have on whether to pull the trigger or keep looking.

[So.Cal.Super]

I would offer 3800.00 rubber banded in a nice pile and go from there. (after you have looked over the truck.)

as far as getting your money back. Never plan on it, ever. It's only worth what someone is willing to pay.

if your going to look at it wear clothes you don't mind trashing and bring a creeper and a flashlight. you can see if there is cab rust you can't see under the carpet. Check for oil leaks, look at the oil on the dipstick, smell the tranny fluid. look at the brake fluid color. make sure your thorough but, the decision is yours.

oh and look for a build sheet under the seat and check the receipt for the crate motor.

also, be ready to walk away. you can always go up from what ever offer you start with and leave him your number with what ever final offer you stick with.