Brake conversion question

[dave`12]

I'm considering putting disk on the front of my all drum set-up (6 lug).

I know that there are many threads on this, so I just did a search and came up with something very interesting.

It seems that maybe I can just add a booster and leave everything else the same?

Is this possible? It would save a bunch of work and money.

The threads I found were for older or newer vehicles. I'm curious about 1967 specifically.

Thanx for any enlightenment.

[notsolo]

So, are you thinking of adding 6 lug disk, and booster instead of whole cross member swap? I think you can do it either way. Add Booster. Disc's are nice upgrade, too..

[68Gold/white]

If you are thinking the power assist of the booster will make your brakes on par with disc brakes, I would NOT do that. I have both power and manual 4 wheel drum pickups...Both stop VERY poorly.

There are a few here that disagree and claim the all wheel drum brakes stop just fine. I STRONGLY disagree with them!!! I know that some of the suppliers make 6 lug disc kits, I would go this direction, at the very least.

My 67 and 68 C-10's will both be converted to 5 lug disc setups, before they move an inch on the street again. I am only going 5 lug because I have a bunch of cool 5 lug wheels, and all the other parts to convert to 5 lug...

[dave`12]

Thanx for the replies. I knew it sounded too good to be true. I would go with the 6 lug disks assuming they make them. I love my 6 lug rallyes.

Not sure about the "crossmember swap". I was thinking just the spindle and disks. Years ago, I converted a 1969 Firebird and got donor spindles and disks from a Nova at the junk yard and it was an easy swap, but that car had power already...

[68Gold/white]

You will NOT need to do anything with your cross member. You CAN bolt in a complete 73-87 crossmember with all the 73-87 parts on it, that will work, but you don't need that.

You may not even need to swap spindles, BUT the 70 and earlier drum brake spindles are a little smaller, and accordingly use smaller bearings. From my parts store days, the 70 and earlier bearing sets (including the race) set #6 is the inners, and set #2 is the outer set.
The 71-up bearing sets are, set 5 for the inners and set 3 for the outers. Try to find a 6 lug setup the supplies spindles, using these bearings...

Of course you will need a different master cyilnder, brakes hoses and other goodies...

[volksworld]

back in about 81 when i did mine slapping in a late xmember and 5 lug rear axles was pretty much the easiest way to come up with discs....simpler than chasing down one year only spindles....so lots of trucks were done this way...but at this point with the availability of aftermarket spindles and 6 lug rotors there's no reason to do it that way any more...unless maybe you come up with all the stuff for free....mine remained manual disc to the present and stops fine...and it was a tow truck for 20yrs...you dont want power drum unless you want something that still doesnt stop but locks up with less pedal pressure

[Steeveedee]

It's a long-running "Tastes Great, Less Filling" argument with drum Vs disc brakes. All things being equal, disc brakes will stop better in splashing wet weather, and don't fade.

I don't even like power brakes, to be honest, because when the engine quits, the assist is gone. My wife managed to stop our AstroVan when the fuel pump (and thus, the engine) quit, but she was lucky to be getting off the freeway and not having to make a panic stop.

[dave`12]

I don't need the power, and was under the impression that you needed power to go disk.

I'm the only driver and would be more than happy to just swap the spindles and add rotors and calipers. When I did the firebird, I was able to use the same brake lines - in fact I didn't even add a proportioning valve and was happy with the results.

My goal is just a vehicle that will stop better in an emergency. It has been ok for the easy life that it has, but my concern is if someone slams on the brakes in front of me or cuts me off. I'm thinking I would have issues that disk might avoid.

Not too worried about splash and fading as my truck is babied and sees very little rain.

So are you all saying my drums are fine? And if I do this, can I get away with only buying rotors, calipers, pads, and spindles?

Thanx!

[RichardJ]

>>When I did the firebird ..... the same brake lines - in fact I didn't even add a proportioning valve and was happy<<
>>but my concern is if someone slams on the brakes in front of me or cuts me off.<<

This is when you need a proportioning valve. When you put your foot into it hard, the front discs will work fine, but that will be too much pressure for the rear drum brakes. The drums will lock up, the rear tires will skid and the vehicle will try to swap ends. That is assuming everything is correct except the missing prop valve.

[clear-lake-gmc]

i have a 71 frame with front discs thats pooched and just got a 69 frame with 6 bolt drums so looks like 5 bolt swap for me but i am considering getting 6 bolt drop disc spindles though they arent to much not sure if you use oem calipers and rotors though

[LockDoc]

-
Check this thread out by member Lolife99.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=444823

It is a sticky in the "Suspension" forum

LockDoc

[Rick Bollinger]

I just did the 6 lug disc brake swap on my 68. I used the CCP kit with 2 1/2 inch drop spindles. I also got the midnight series master cyl and booster set-up. Stock springs with 255-70-15 BFG tires on 8" truck rallies. 2" lowering springs with 1" blocks in the rear for 3" total. I love the way it drives and stops now. The brake's were right at $1000 for both kits and I had no issues installing them.

[dave`12]

Thanx all for the great advice and the link.

I'm going to look into the 6 lug swap kits.

[demian5]

You don't even need to change the brake lines, that's a bonus.