Front end reassembly question.

[In The Ten Ring]

I'm finally getting the truck back together. I put in the new rubber bushings that go under the radiator core support and I have begun putting the new-to-me radiator core support on.

I have one front inner and outer fender on but the other side is off. The core support does seem to resist going on. Is that merely due to the new bushings being taller than the old, turned-to-dust ones? Does that outer fender need to be loosened up?

Also, am I right to assume the other inner fender goes on before the outer fender?

Older pic below, just to give an idea, but this is basically where I am.

[In The Ten Ring]

ttt

[57taskforce]

I personally hang the core support before the fenders. Once the support is on you can hang the fenders loosely and get the gaps right before you snug it all down.

[snipescastle2]

Which bushings are you using for the core support? You may have to snug them down before you can fasten the fenders to the core support. The inner fenders attach to the underside of the core support too by the way, so you would want them in place before fitting the fenders.i used some thick adhesive backed foam tape in between the core support and the front of the inner fenders to reduce any rattles there might be. I think the factory used seam sealer or caulking there.
HTH,
Ben

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[In The Ten Ring]

I am using the rubber bushing kit from Classic Heartbeat (forum vendor).

Hmm.....what foot-pounds do those front bushings (under the core support) need?

[snipescastle2]

That I'm not sure about, I used the poly bushings and they are a bit more stiff than the rubber ones, but I'm sure somebody will chime in with the specs for ya!
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[FirstOwner69]

I loosely mounted the core support and the fenders. I squared everything up to adjust the fender to hood and door gaps and tightened the bolts. I then installed the inner fenders.

There are 2 different styles of core support mounts. One type was reportedly used on 67s and 68s and the other type on 69s-72s. However, my '69 3/4 ton built during Dec., 1968, had the 67/68 type from day one. Therefore, I did use the 67/68 type but had to torque the crap out of them to get decent fender to door gaps.

What year is your truck?

[In The Ten Ring]

1972

[Grumpy old man]

Woah, start with the core support ,bolts hand tight .then L&R fenders again hanging loose . You don't install inner fenders just yet and you can't bolt anything up tight until its all assembled loosely to start checking alignment gaps / square before anything gets tightened down . Did you replace the cab mount bushings already ? Using old cab mounts and new core support mounts will make it difficult to get good panel alignment .did you check cab alignment to the frame before starting to hang the front clip ? Everything has to work together off a center line or you could be off by an inch when you get to the passenger side .
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[midniteblues]

The hood fit is gonna tell ya the whole story.
tape up all your edges. Bolt fenders on just snug enough that you can still move them slightly around same with the core support. And try the hood.
Inners can be put in after everything is on.
Tape will be your friend.

[In The Ten Ring]

The cab has bushings too? LOL

I replaced the cab to frame bushings last year, using the rubber kit from Classic Heartbeat. I followed Wes's advice and tightened till the nut & washer contacted the bottom of the lower bushing and then gave it one more complete turn. I replaced both front and rear bushings (all 4 bolts).

"Hand tighten" the radiator core support nuts. Not possible! Those nuts are the self locking ones that tighten pretty much as soon as they engage all the threads.

Should I use a regular nut there?

So the passenger side inner fender will go on last?

"Tape up edges." So I put tape of some sort (black or blue painter's tape?) onto all edges to prevent damage as I get things lined up?

[57taskforce]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

The cab has bushings too? LOL

I replaced the cab to frame bushings last year, using the rubber kit from Classic Heartbeat. I followed Wes's advice and tightened till the nut & washer contacted the bottom of the lower bushing and then gave it one more complete turn. I replaced both front and rear bushings (all 4 bolts).

"Hand tighten" the radiator core support nuts. Not possible! Those nuts are the self locking ones that tighten pretty much as soon as they engage all the threads.

Should I use a regular nut there?

So the passenger side inner fender will go on last?

"Tape up edges." So I put tape of some sort (black or blue painter's tape?) onto all edges to prevent damage as I get things lined up?

Yep painters tape is your best friend. You can't use too much here. As for the core support bolts, you can use the locking nuts but just don't run them all the way snug. leave them a turn or two loose, or however many it takes to get everything lined up and in place.

[midniteblues]

In your pic you still have the front bumper on.
You'll have too pull it off to get your grill back in with out damage or at least pull the middle bolts and let it drop not sure if that works though.

Yep lots of blue tape. Some strips of cardboard and a few rags can help save tape.

Usually start with door too fender gaps along with the cowl gaps, grill then hood.

You can do the hood without the grill but before you tighten the fender too support bolts be sure too get that grill in.
it can get pretty tight getting it back in without damage.

[In The Ten Ring]

Yes that pic is from last summer, I have the bumper off now.

Ugh! Sounds like an annoying process! Blue tape, thanks for answering that. I have lots of blue tape.

Just to clarify:

Tighten core support as advised.

Put on outer fenders and shoot for uniform alignment with front edges of doors.

Put on grill.

Put on hood, again shooting for proper alignment and gap spacing.

Use blue tape to prevent edge-to-edge scratches.

Once things appear correct, remove tape and tighten things down.

Finally install passenger side inner fender. Sound about right?

[In The Ten Ring]

Another question.

From what I recall from disassembly, the only places that allow any adjustment (oval bolt holes) would be those core support-to-outer fender brackets and the core support itself, right?

I know the brackets under the core support where the bushings go have very large holes, much larger than needed.

Am I on target with this?

[midniteblues]

Originally Posted by In The Ten Ring

Yes that pic is from last summer, I have the bumper off now.

Ugh! Sounds like an annoying process!
Yes it can be very time consuming process.
Blue tape, thanks for answering that. I have lots of blue tape.
Good your gonna need it.

Just to clarify:

Tighten core support as advised.
i wouldnt wrench it down just yet. But snug enough too keep it from shifting around yet tight enough too keep pressure on the rubbers . Cause you my need too move it yet for alinging.

Put on outer fenders and shoot for uniform alignment with front edges of doors.
And the cowl.

Put on grill.

Put on hood, again shooting for proper alignment and gap spacing.

Use blue tape to prevent edge-to-edge scratches.
Yes anywhere you may have contact.
a strip of cardboard taped too the front edge of the cowl will help with the gap and damage.

Once things appear correct, remove tape and tighten things down.
Ya might wanna tighten the key points before removing the tape.

Dont forget the 4 hood bumpers along the top of the fenders along the hood jam. also the two hood adjusters on the core support. And if ya have one the cowl seal.
all these can either help or make it tough. But you should have them.

Finally install passenger side inner fender. Sound about right?

Last is adjusting the hood latch if you have too.
Then reinstall and align the bumper.
ugh!read the quote too.