700R4 TV cable setup on a carbureted engine

[Bruce88]

Sometimes the instructions are lacking, not existent or not compiled together in one place
There maybe the questions as to what the instructions said, omitted steps, what do I do next, or maybe just why am I doing this step.

I always like to see instructions that I would call the (KISS) system (Keep It Simple Stupid) with plenty of pictures. When bringing together a number of parts from different manufactures to accomplish a task and their instructions don’t seem to work together, there’s always the possibility there not going to or will need modification in order to work and they just didn’t think about that or wanted to address it.

The installations of a 700R4 transmission in or trucks seems to be a popular modification, but there’s plenty of confusion about the TV cable setup that may prevent some from wanting to do this transmission installation. If you break the setup into small chunks/steps this may help in eliminating some of the major confusion.

First you have to determine what engine the installation is going to be used on. This installation is going on a SB Chevy, carbureted engine, that was not setup for a 700R4 transmission with a TV Cable (not a computer controlled 700R4 or fuel injected engine).

I took some screen shots from different web sites and have modified some of them for clarity/understanding (more than I will list here) hope they don’t mind (smile). Here are some links to some of the instructions that I used to help compile this post. http://www.bmracing.com/PRODUCTS/Bui...-TH-700R4-4L60 you will find a PDF file (Installation Instructions Transpak Part Number 70235) See page 12 & 13. And http://www.tciauto.com/Products/Inst...ble_adjust.htm

One of the steps is to create a attach point for the TV cable to the throttle lever on the carburetor. Your carburetor probably doesn’t have a hole for this; the hole would have to meet the geometry shown in the instruction figures and all the measurements they talk about is to assure that it meats those requirements. (I highlighted the measurements in blue in the below picture) The simple way to meet all the geometry requirements is to obtain a (TV Cable Bracket Corrector Kit) their made for many carburetors. Rochester, Edelbrock, and Holley from a number of different sources I happen to be using one by Sonnax Performance (part # AS3-03K) for Edelbrock/Carter Carburetors.

One thing you might have to change on the corrector kit is the throttle cable end. Their made for a clip-on throttle cable and may need to be changed to a ball-type throttle cable stud depending on what kind of throttle you have. I had to change mine to ball-type and decided to use the upper hole that worked better with my throttle bracket. I also had to trim my throttle bracket to clear the corrector lever (just peculiar to my throttle bracket).

Attachment 597544

Attachment 597545

Next is to locate the TV cable bracket in relationship to the attach point on the throttle lever, meeting the geometry requirements (highlighted in green in the above picture). There are loads of different brackets that you may have, most will require some kind of modification to work. Just because the bracket you buy or use say that it fits a 700R4 TV cable doesn’t mean that it locates it in the correct location. The opening in the bracket for the TV cable is the same for a 350 transmission or a 700R4 transmission but are located in different positions depending on what transmission you are using. I used a ½ inch X 1-1/2 inch X 3-1/2 inch long aluminum block that I drilled and tapped some holes in to attach it to my throttle bracket moving it outboard and down to meet the correct geometry. If you’re using a steel bracket you might have to cut it to locate the opening then weld it or fabricate a complete bracket to do the job. As far as how far aft the bracket should be located I would say a minimum of 2 inches aft of the attach point to lets say 6 inches aft of the attach point as long as you maintain the 90 degree angle on the cable with the throttle lever attach point straight down from the throttle shaft (reference the 55 degree angle in the first picture)

This is the hardest part of the installation with so many different brackets out there and you will have to figure out how to make it work. This geometry relationship is important and needs to be maintained for everything to work right. So take your measurements and figure out if the bracket mounting location needs to be moved and figure out how to do it. You never know your bracket may not need any modification (I kind of doubt it). The installation definitely gets simpler from this point forward (smile)

Before someone jumps in and says that my throttle cable is not a straight pull in the below picture. The throttle cable pull is not as critical as the TV cable geometry and with the ball-type attachment and it being a cable it will compensate just fine for the less than straight pull.

Attachment 597546

With there being so many different TV cables, with different lengths, I would recommend using a universal TV cable that can be adjusted and it will not dictate the mount location. You can find one at Summit Racing or JEG’S mine came with my TCI 700R4 transmission package.

One step/instruction missing was on setting the universal TV cable length. First attach the cable down at the transmission and secure with a metric bolt. Then press the reset tab on the auto adjuster and push the slider in flush with the adjuster (see the first picture in this post) pressing the reset tab and pushing the slider flush with the adjuster can be done after the adjuster is installed in the bracket it’s just simpler now. Now install the adjuster in the bracket. Slide the inner tube on the TV cable housing in or out to get the best fit not riding on anything or to tight riding on the trans or eng. Then slide the inner tube out about a ½ inch and tighten the locking nuts (the ½ inch that you move it out is to allow the auto adjuster to move forward). Once the nuts are tightened you will not be able to adjust the cable housings length again, there is a compression sleeve inside the nuts that will crimp down onto the inner tube. This tube has to be locked before the auto adjuster will work correctly.

Another missing step. Is where to set the adjustable cable sleeve stop on the cable before moving the throttle to wide open throttle? With the cable thru the plastic cable clip, slide the sleeve stop up to the clip (throttle should be at the idle position). Now pull the cable so that the stop is approximately ¾ of an inch away from the clip then slide the stop to the clip and tighten the set screw (you can release the cable now). I would call this a pre-set position; the ¾ inch dimension is just approximate it could be any where between ½ inch to 1 inch. This pre-set position is needed for the cable auto adjuster to work

The adjustable cable sleeve stop you see in the pictures is a custom one that I made out of some 3/8 HEX stock and some set screws. The adjustable cable sleeve stop that comes with the universal TV cable will work just fine but I wanted something a little more custom.

Attachment 597547

A quick review before I move the throttle to wide open throttle and let the auto adjuster do its work and do the final adjustment/setting of the TV cable.

(1)The attach point on the throttle lever meets the geometry requirements.
(2)The TV cable bracket is located to meet the geometry requirements.
(3)The slider on the auto adjuster is pushed in flush on the adjuster.
(4)The Universal TV cable length is set/locked to length.
(5)The adjustable cable sleeve stop is in the pre-set position.
(6)The carburetor choke is in the off position (not interfering with throttle going to WOT).
(7)The throttle return springs are removed (to make it easier to move the throttle).

If you can’t answer (Yes) to the above steps your not ready to do the final setting of the TV cable.

Of course I answered yes to all the above (smile) Now move the throttle to the WOT position. You might hear some clicking from the slider moving forward on the auto adjuster. After you move the throttle to the WOT position the slider should have moved forward from the flush position it was set to prior (there’s no dimension that it needs to move just that it moves forward). The TV cable is now adjusted/set; there are no other adjustments that need to be done. If the slider on the auto adjuster did not move forward in this step try increasing the pre-set dimension of the cable sleeve stop.

I did not try to address using a factory TV cable because there are so many and each one requires their own specific auto adjuster mounting bracket to a specific carburetor and there is normally no way to set the cable sleeve stop (the cable stop is normally swedged on the cable, not adjustable). If you want a factory installation you need to get the carburetor, mounting bracket, and TV cable for that specific set up.

I also did not try to address a Lokar style custom TV cable installation because I’m not doing that installation and would not have any pictures and where all the geometry requirements talked about would apply, the final cable setting is a little more complicated because it doesn’t use an auto adjuster. Trying to keep it simple (smile)

For those that are interested the throttle bracket and TV cable bracket that I used and had to modify was from JEG’S part number 15152 & 15229 .

Now the only question I have is where to post this in the forum. I think the above information would be useful along with the installation instruction listed in the beginning of this post to any one that’s trying to set up a 700R4 TV cable on a carbureted engine. It is part of my build and could be of benefit to the general forum members so I’m posting in my build thread and will create a link to it in the FAQ section.

Hope you find it beneficial in understanding and doing a TV cable install

Now that I’ve been lying around long enough to let my body recover/rest from the last few weeks work on the truck I need to get out there and work on it (smile)
Enjoy your build