Help with Door Glass

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Working on my Sons truck. The Door Glass came out of the metal piece on the bottom that the rollers go onto. See pic. How is the glass held in to this part. Do I need to go to a glass shop??

[truckster]

It was originally set with glass setting tape, which is a compressible rubber tape that contains fibers in it. A glass shop that does classic vehicles should be able to help you with that.

Newer vehicles have the glass set with epoxy. I like JB Quick Weld, because it sets fast and it has a similar flexibility to the professional epoxy. If you're going to do it this way, you want to make sure you have the track in the proper position.

Clean any loose rust off the track, and clean the bottom of the glass well. Make a couple of shims from thin cardboard. Make a U out of the cardboard shims and put one on the front and one of the back of the track. Set the glass in the track and run it up and down to make sure it's not going to bind. Use a piece of tape to mark the position of the track on the glass, and then mix up your epoxy. You don't need to fill the entire track with epoxy, a couple of inches at each end will do. Use the cardboard as a spacer to center the glass in the track and glue it in. Let it set up for a few minutes and you're done.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Originally Posted by truckster

It was originally set with glass setting tape, which is a compressible rubber tape that contains fibers in it. A glass shop that does classic vehicles should be able to help you with that.

Newer vehicles have the glass set with epoxy. I like JB Quick Weld, because it sets fast and it has a similar flexibility to the professional epoxy. If you're going to do it this way, you want to make sure you have the track in the proper position.

Clean any loose rust off the track, and clean the bottom of the glass well. Make a couple of shims from thin cardboard. Make a U out of the cardboard shims and put one on the front and one of the back of the track. Set the glass in the track and run it up and down to make sure it's not going to bind. Use a piece of tape to mark the position of the track on the glass, and then mix up your epoxy. You don't need to fill the entire track with epoxy, a couple of inches at each end will do. Use the cardboard as a spacer to center the glass in the track and glue it in. Let it set up for a few minutes and you're done.

Thanks for all the information. Couple of ?? Do the U shaped shims go on the bottom of the glass and then slide Both into the track?? Then put flat cardboard on each side to center in the track?? Once you know the position of glass and track do you remove glass to put epoxy in then reset the glass in the track?.
I don’t want to make any mistakes

[BrentBTK]

I bought this glass setting tape from Summit. It's probably a lifetime supply, lol

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/bdr-b-37193-d

Just fold it, set it in the channel, then (firmly but gently) pound it into place. I did it inside the door.

[purple gas]

When your coaxing your glass into the channel don't use a hammer directly on the glass. A piece of wood should be used between the glass and whatever you're using to hit it with.
Tempered window glass is pretty tough stuff on the flat surface, but the edges are the weak spot.
Lay a piece of wood along the edge to distribute the force and slightly cushion the blow.

[Accelo]

Here is a link to a 5' section for $10.
https://www.classicindustries.com/product/gt0132.html

[1970 CST Short Wide]

Went to 3 Auto Glass shops today. NONE of them had even heard of Glass setting tape !!!
They ALL wanted to clue it in with what looked like Silicone in a big tube mounted on a calking gun.

[truckster]

Originally Posted by 1970 CST Short Wide

Went to 3 Auto Glass shops today. NONE of them had even heard of Glass setting tape !!!
They ALL wanted to clue it in with what looked like Silicone in a big tube mounted on a calking gun.

They wanted to use urethane, because it's what they have handy. It will work, but it will set up hard and you need to make sure the glass is positioned correctly when the glass is set.

As far as using the epoxy, just use a thin piece of cardboard - something like the back of a legal pad - and make a 1/2" wide strip. Set one on each end and the glass should slide down into the track pretty easily. I would do this with the glass in the window felt and the track on the regulator. Run the window up and down to make sure it's not going to bind, and then mark the location on the glass. Once you've done that, you're ready for epoxy. Leave the spacers in place and mix up your epoxy. Set the window in place and let it set.

While you're in there, make sure you lubricate the track where the nylon rollers ride. That seems to be the place where they wear out the quickest.

[Richard]

Simply centering the channel on the bottom edge of glass should be fine, it is what I have done. There is nothing fixing glass motion front to back, it is on rollers. If old setting tape is not destroyed I have used (did use) a good weatherstrip adhesive on the old setting tape. Several places to get new setting tape. I prefer to position glass top down on a solid surface with carpet or a towel. Then tap the channel on with a dead blow hammer.

[1970 CST Short Wide]

The original channeling was bent. I had another window with Bad glass but a good channel. The old tape was history so I sand blasted the channel used your cardboard suggestion and squared up the window to my satisfaction then took it to the one glass shop that at least understood what I was doing and had them glue it in $20 and Done. Hope this works. Windows are a Pain in the Ars.
Thanks All for the information. This place never disappoints

[truckster]

I'm glad it worked out for you.

[georgieb51]

I just want to encourage those who have never tried to put new glass in the old channels (sash). I just installed new glass after sandblasting the channels and painting. I think the paint took up some space since the originals appear to be bare steel. I used the glass setting rubber tape, sprayed soapy water.glass cleaner on the rubber and glass and then proceeded carefully. I actually found I got better results on the second window by not proceeding as carefully. I agree with those who use something such as a board against thee glass. I used a rubber mallet on the edge of the glass and also flipped the whole thing on end and pounded on the steel part with good success. (The glass rested on a towel). It was a lot easier than I ever imagined, as are most things when done the first time.