structural epoxy

[TheDude]

I had my truck sand blasted and it really left a lot of holes, some in the floor that were pretty ugly. I know the best way to solve this would be to spend countless hours welding in a new floor, or filling each one with new metal, to rust away at some point in the future.

So instead of spending all that time, I filled the holes with structural epoxy, the sort sold at home depot in the brackets. I use this stuff in construction where it is preferred over a concrete 'wet set' of anchor bolts. Here's the specs: http://www.simpsonanchors.com/catalo...txp/index.html

I think this is how the new Boeing 787 is being built by the way.

Has anyone here ever tried this? What does the forum think? Considering this is an S10 build, I think it serves the budget minded philosophy of the project. Once it cures, I'll update.

[OrrieG]

The reason for cutting out the rust is because it has already started to spread inside the metal beyond the obvious holes and soft spots sand blasting revealed. The epoxy will fill the holes but the rust left behind will continue to spread. The old saying "rust never sleeps" is correct, you have to get to good solid metal. Many times on mine I tried to weld up a small hole I thought was cleaned up and ended up with a quarter size hole after hitting it with the welder even though it looked ok. I'd take a closer look and make sure you are getting all the rust out.

[TheDude]

Point taken, however I figure the epoxy should seal out any moisture, in the same way POR-15 works, therefore 'killing' the rust, I'll epoxy primer the whole thing one the structural epoxy cures

[hotrodrookie]

I don't know about that one, seems like alot of cancer rust to be covered with a band-aid.

[S10Fan]

Yes, many cars (and maybe airplanes) are "glued' together, but. Panels on those vehicles are lapped over each other, flanged, with an epoxy type adhesive. Filling holes or allowing the epoxy to be the panel is a bad idea. Believe me, I understand budgets but myself and many others wouldn't trust that type of repair.

[NICK51]

Have you maybe tried the Lead free body solder that eastwood sells?

[justplainray]

laminated in some wire mesh and fiberglass mat.
I have actually repaired the bottom of a rusted out door this way.
This will work just fine for a number of years, maybe decades.

Everyone hates a Monday morning quarterback.

Just fix it up, drive it and ENJOY it.
justplainray

PS. the next step is to primer that cab with epoxy primer, all over.
Don't use rattle can, use 2 part epoxy and if you can't spray it, roll/brush it on.
check out Summit Racing paints.

[mr48chev]

Originally Posted by hotrodrookie

I don't know about that one, seems like alot of cancer rust to be covered with a band-aid.

I have to agree. That kick panel shows a ring following the fender line where it appears to have rusted through.

Band aid fixes have a way of coming back and biting you in the butt big time and my truck is proof of that. For me it is easier to build a new cab than fix the one I have although I will probably fix it later with leftovers from the new cab.

[Daze57]

OrrieG

''Rust never Sleeps''
that is a saying i use all the time - i just added ''either do we ''
being a stagehand here in vegas you are always on the go - but unlike rust i dont flake off

[55metalmonkey]

As much as I hate temporary fixes or short cuts, at least it will make it last untill you can do a full repair (if you ever decied to do it). Personally I would cut out the bad sections and weld in new sheetmetal.... but to be fair not everyone has the tools/ welder to do that. In the best case scenario it will last forever and not be a problem.
In my case, I had rot in roughly the same places except on a 55 and it had litteraly layers and layers of temporary fixes done to it. It was a major PITA to cut through all of it to get it to where I could weld in new metal. IMO the temporary fixes accually made it harder and took more time because I had to keep cutting back further as I found more damage and paper thin metal also the epoxy kept cloging the zip disc and gumming up the air saw.
If you ever decied to go back and do a sheetmetal fix to it the epoxy repairs will likely make it harder to cut the section out and do it again. JMO

[TheDude]

Thanks for everyone's input, the patches seem rock solid having cured overnight, and I filled in the rest of the areas. The neat thing was the glue dripped down into the holes and created a little bubble on the underside, which I think seals it off pretty well.

I forgot to say in my original post, once it was sandblasted, some repairs that were filled with plastic held up as good as ever.

Considering the truck has so far lasted 60 years, mostly in the weather, I really think a more substantial repair is unnecessary, this repair can last at least 15 years.

Also the truck is being put into service for my company, and I intend to build a several more, so that's another reason to find a workable solution to such a common problem that I'll no doubt encounter again.

My next step is to epoxy prime it.

For the cab, I want a really quiet ride, so I plan to insulate the bottom of the cab. I have researched a few sound deadening coatings, and decided to make my own. I plan to use elastomeric paint, which is used as a best practice in building showers to keep prevent water intrusion, I am going to mix it with play sand. I think this should create the same product, if not superior.

[swizzlestick]

my vote would be to replace the metal. you'll never regret doing it right the first time.

[63 & 64 Bowties]

Originally Posted by TheDude

I plan to use elastomeric paint, which is used as a best practice in building showers to keep prevent water intrusion, I am going to mix it with play sand. I think this should create the same product, if not superior.

Interesting. I'd like to hear more about that. Sounds like a good homemade bed-liner?