Decision has been made... K5 is a going to a new home (long, sorry)

[redz 1970 K5]

I really appreciate everyone's input on the last thread I started. For anyone wanting to come up to speed, please read-

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s....php3?t=163498

I really need a truck- for work, for the family, and most importantly for playtime. It's time. Plus, my commute has dropped from 60 miles a day to 2 miles a day, so the commuter car is going out the door too.

In order to get my truck, I need to offload my K5 unfortunately. I am looking at an older Ford F-350 96-97 quad cab long box or a 96-99 K3500 quad cab long box. Not sure which yet, but I just can't bring myself to pay $40-50k for a new truck, and obviously I have no problem driving an older vehicle

Those model years are my favorite for the respective manufacturers.

Anyways... I can't put my finger on an asking price- I am just too close to it to make a fair decision. I won't take a penny under $6,000, but I have no idea how much (if any) over that I can go. Now I know a truck is only worth as much as someone is willing to pay, but I could sure use your help for a starting price. I am not looking to sell on this forum, so be as critical as possible. Don't spare my feelings.

Some details (good and bad here fellas, all cards on the table)

Positives-

Tuff Country EZ Ride 6" springs, <300 miles
Explorer ES-3000s front, <300 miles
Explorer Stainless brake lines front <300 miles
Moog M2 Upper/Lower BJS <300 miles
Moog M2 Tie Rod Ends <300 miles
Moog M2 Draglink <300 miles
Wagner Rotors <300 miles
Cardone Calipers <300 miles
Inner/Outer Federal hub bearings <300 miles
Brute Force u-joints (axles) <300 miles
Warn hubs
Rough Country dual steering stabilizer <300 miles
Performance Accessories 3" Body Lift
Front bumper cut/welded
Prothane Body Mounts
Superlift 2" rear springs
Rough Country 2" rear blocks
Rancho RS-5000 shocks rear
38x15.50R16 Interco TruXus STSs with about 50% treadlife
16x10" American Racing Diamond Locks
Smittybilt 6 point roll cage, spreaders widened (glove box opens! )
Holly Street Avenger 670cfm carb <300 miles
Accel 8.8mm wires <300 miles
Proform HEI distributor, all new <300 miles
Edelbrock Performer Carb
Edelbrock Valve covers
Hedman Headers <300 miles
Totally custom true dual 2 1/2" exhaust with H pipe, stainless mufflers + tips
B&M Supercooler Transcooler
New fuel pump, new battery, 4 core radiator, new distributor, new voltage regulator
Pioneer head unit + outdoor speakers
custom rear roll pan
Smooth tailgate with custom skin
Front fenders, hood, grille in great shape
passenger rear quarter in good shape, doors & inner panels in good shape
3.73s, TH350, D44 front, 12 bolt rear
Truck runs AWESOME with great power, shifts solidly, starts easy and runs good, even in 100 degree weather.

Now for the negatives

Steering box leaks (1 tsp/mo)
Oil pan leaks (1 tbs/mo)
Tranny leaks (1 tbs/mo)
Xfer case leaks (1 tbs/mo)
Front pumpkin leaks (1 tsp/mo)
No carpet
Driver side needs new floor pan
Both rocker boxes need bottom sheet metal (all cancer cut away)
Heater not hooked up, fan doesn't work (haven't investigated)
Truck does have ongoing short, have used cutoff switch to prevent battery dying
Rear tailights work, both blinkers work, LH brake light doesn't. Possibly source of short
ahmeter guage not hooked up
Rear quarter on driver side has about a 2" crack by the fenderwell
Previous owner hacked dash for DIN stereo mount
rear seat not mounted

Well, that's about it. I could sure use some pointers... Like how much of this to divulge if I list on Ebay, I really want to be honest and fair and don't want to mislead.

guys, thanks in advance. For everything. Many of you have been there and helped me when I was installing everything from the list above.

If anyone had a 'shell' and were looking for the guts to populate it, I bet they couldn't get a better deal on all of the mods and bolt ons, even if they didn't drive it as is.











Guys, be honest with me, don't sugar coat it, don't worry about protecting my feelings here.