2 "how to" questions - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

sactoC10 · 12-08-2003, 05:31 PM

OK,

How is the vent window and related hardware removed/replaced in the doors? Must the window and regulator be removed to change them? If so, how?

Also...I've never done work on a drive-line before, thus I've never changed a universal joint. When the clips have been popped out, how are they driven out of the holes? Big hammer?

Thanks.

Jeffrey

lukecp · 12-08-2003, 05:41 PM

Can't help on the vent window, but i can on the u-joints...

I drive mine out with a vice and 2 sockets, 1 large and 1 small. I put the yolk in the vice, and put a large socket (bigger than the U-joint cap) one one side of the yolk, and a smaller socket (smaller than the u-joint cap) on the other side of the yolk. Clamping down the vice pushes the U-joint to the other side. Works rather well. The big hammer method also works pretty well, but i have found the vice mehtod to be a bit slower, but there is much less of a chance of whacking your thumb with a hammer

. And it is more plesant too.

cheatham · 12-08-2003, 06:16 PM

Another tip about the U-joints. unbolt it at the back and unbolt the carrier bearing. The whole thing will then slide out of the tranny.

You may have already figured that out, but I laid under my truck struggling with it not realizing I just needed to unbolt the carrier.

1970blazin · 12-08-2003, 06:27 PM

I am wondering about the vent window also?

Paul72 · 12-08-2003, 06:44 PM

I changed out the vent window on my Blazer, and I basically took everything out. You can get the vent window assembly out with the window rolled down, but I don't know how it would be getting it back together.

Directions: Remove the door panel and remove every screw on the inside of the door. It's really not too complicated, but I would do it when you can put it back together in a short period of time (so you remember where all the hardware goes).

I've got a disassembled door in my garage if you have specific questions.

Hope this helps!

Paul

**CPNE** · 12-08-2003, 06:52 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by 1970blazin
I am wondering about the vent window also?

Okay, if you are changing the vent window ONLY, you do not need to remove the glass or other "guts". Do the following:

1. Remove inner door handles, armrest, and door panel.
2. Remove the 2 lower screws, and the one upper screw holding the REAR (latch end) glass guide channel in place.
3. Push the loosened rear channel as far back as possible. This will allow the door glass to slide back toward the latch end of the door. This is important because you cannot remove the old wing vent without doing this.
4. Remove 2 lower screws and 3 upper screws holding wing vent in place. If you have a 72 door, also remove the screw that reenforces the area where the wing vent enters.
5. Pull wing vent away from where it sits, them pull up and out. You will want to be careful not to ruin your door 'fuzzies" in the process. The vent has to be twisted 90 degrees as well.

To reinstall, reverse the process,

WRMZ71 · 12-08-2003, 07:28 PM

CPNE made it sound to easy. He's got the process right though. When i did mine it was a pain in the neck and i scratched the Sh*# out of my paint in the process. And you're window liner you might want to take that out unless you're really careful, cause when i did mine I tore my brand new one all to heck.

GOOD LUCK

**JIMs70GMC** · 12-08-2003, 10:11 PM

I've replaced my driver side and did exactly what CPNE said above-real smooth and easy.

*Randy70C-10* · 12-08-2003, 10:28 PM

Good, you can help me put mine back together after I paint the doors.

sactoC10 · 12-09-2003, 12:36 AM

Thanks for these answers. Regarding the drive shaft, I have removed it from the truck already...just trying to figure these details out. I'd think that maybe a large C-clamp may work similar to a vice then, eh? The vice I have is too small for this job.

As for the windows...good to know these tricks, which is why I asked. I once had a 68 Mustang and had the guy at the local yard not showed me how to remove the regulator, I'd probably still have window falling down into the door!

I will print these out and see how it works!

Cat Fuzz · 12-09-2003, 12:42 AM

If you want to save yourself some hassle, take your drive shaft down to a machine shop and have them do it. A c-clamp won't be any good.

1969 GMC · 12-09-2003, 03:25 AM

get a ujoint press, they are cheap, for the driveshaft...basically a big cclamp. i think you can also rent them if for some reason you wouldn't want to keep it.

sactoC10 · 12-09-2003, 12:41 PM

I have these longbeds...with the two part shafts. So the one removed from the 70 is rather awkward to move around and store, being so long and flopping about. I don't know if they are worth anything, but regardless if they stay or go, I need to get the two pieces separated.

If I don't have to, I don't want to throw any money at it. Maybe the dude across the street will have a better vice I can use.

Thanks!

12-08-2003, 05:31 PM	#1
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	2 "how to" questions OK, How is the vent window and related hardware removed/replaced in the doors? Must the window and regulator be removed to change them? If so, how? Also...I've never done work on a drive-line before, thus I've never changed a universal joint. When the clips have been popped out, how are they driven out of the holes? Big hammer? Thanks. Jeffrey

12-08-2003, 05:41 PM	#2
lukecp Formerly yellow72custom Join Date: May 2001 Location: Austin, TX Posts: 7,531	Can't help on the vent window, but i can on the u-joints... I drive mine out with a vice and 2 sockets, 1 large and 1 small. I put the yolk in the vice, and put a large socket (bigger than the U-joint cap) one one side of the yolk, and a smaller socket (smaller than the u-joint cap) on the other side of the yolk. Clamping down the vice pushes the U-joint to the other side. Works rather well. The big hammer method also works pretty well, but i have found the vice mehtod to be a bit slower, but there is much less of a chance of whacking your thumb with a hammer . And it is more plesant too. __________________ '72 Chevy C10 Mild 350/TH350/3.07. Ochre/White. Old high school ride. '70 GMC C2500 '62 327 4bbl/SM465/4.56-geared Dana 60. White/White. Project or parts truck. '97 Saturn SL DD. 1.9/5-speed. 40+ highway mpg

12-08-2003, 06:16 PM	#3
cheatham I need a brake! Join Date: Jul 2002 Location: Nashville, TN Posts: 474	Another tip about the U-joints. unbolt it at the back and unbolt the carrier bearing. The whole thing will then slide out of the tranny. You may have already figured that out, but I laid under my truck struggling with it not realizing I just needed to unbolt the carrier. __________________ JP MEMBER OF THE DISCS UP FRONT CLUB 1971 Chevy C10

12-08-2003, 06:27 PM	#4
1970blazin Blazerless:-( Join Date: Jun 2003 Location: Olympia WA Posts: 1,612	I am wondering about the vent window also? __________________ 1970blazin 1970 CST Blazer-Orig. Dark Blue-SOLD Progress Pics of Blazer for sale

12-08-2003, 06:44 PM	#5
Paul72 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Waterloo, IA Posts: 1,147	I changed out the vent window on my Blazer, and I basically took everything out. You can get the vent window assembly out with the window rolled down, but I don't know how it would be getting it back together. Directions: Remove the door panel and remove every screw on the inside of the door. It's really not too complicated, but I would do it when you can put it back together in a short period of time (so you remember where all the hardware goes). I've got a disassembled door in my garage if you have specific questions. Hope this helps! Paul __________________ '72 Chevy K20 - 383/4sp/205 - SOLD after 41 years in the family Next project - K/5 Tahoe (71 Blazer on 99 Tahoe chassis) Build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=789958

12-08-2003, 07:28 PM	#7
WRMZ71 Cause the Chicks DIG IT!! Join Date: Nov 2003 Location: Beaufort SC Posts: 509	CPNE made it sound to easy. He's got the process right though. When i did mine it was a pain in the neck and i scratched the Sh*# out of my paint in the process. And you're window liner you might want to take that out unless you're really careful, cause when i did mine I tore my brand new one all to heck. GOOD LUCK

12-08-2003, 10:11 PM	#8
JIMs70GMC user # 2756 Join Date: Jun 2001 Location: Chesapeake, Virginia Posts: 4,612	I've replaced my driver side and did exactly what CPNE said above-real smooth and easy. __________________ 1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs 1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX 1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears 1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now..... 1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone. 1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed. 1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm

12-08-2003, 10:28 PM	#9
Randy70C-10 Account Suspended Join Date: Mar 2001 Location: Virginia Beach, Va. U.S.A. Posts: 15,320	Good, you can help me put mine back together after I paint the doors.

12-09-2003, 12:36 AM	#10
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	Thanks for these answers. Regarding the drive shaft, I have removed it from the truck already...just trying to figure these details out. I'd think that maybe a large C-clamp may work similar to a vice then, eh? The vice I have is too small for this job. As for the windows...good to know these tricks, which is why I asked. I once had a 68 Mustang and had the guy at the local yard not showed me how to remove the regulator, I'd probably still have window falling down into the door! I will print these out and see how it works!

12-09-2003, 12:42 AM	#11
Cat Fuzz My son, my joy. Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Spokane WA Posts: 463	If you want to save yourself some hassle, take your drive shaft down to a machine shop and have them do it. A c-clamp won't be any good.

12-09-2003, 03:25 AM	#12
1969 GMC Registered User Join Date: Feb 2003 Location: The Rubber City Posts: 5,498	get a ujoint press, they are cheap, for the driveshaft...basically a big cclamp. i think you can also rent them if for some reason you wouldn't want to keep it. __________________ 1969 GMC K2500 1996 Honda Accord 2007 Kawasaki KLR 650

12-09-2003, 12:41 PM	#13
sactoC10 71 DELUX Join Date: Sep 2003 Location: Northern CA / Sac Posts: 1,056	reason for u-joint question I have these longbeds...with the two part shafts. So the one removed from the 70 is rather awkward to move around and store, being so long and flopping about. I don't know if they are worth anything, but regardless if they stay or go, I need to get the two pieces separated. If I don't have to, I don't want to throw any money at it. Maybe the dude across the street will have a better vice I can use. Thanks!



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