Heavy duty carrier bearing

[Andy4639]

I know this has been talked about a bunch on here but who has the best price on the Heavy duty carrier bearing with billet support like in the picture. I have found a couple of prices but figured I ask here first before I spend the money.

So post up guy's with the best prices.

[kamikazekyle05]

I'm interested also

[brad_man_72]

You also have to add the price of adding a slip and stub to the rear shaft and having both shafts ballanced together. You're probably better off taking it to your local driveline shop and getting an estimate for all of the parts and labor. A lot of people don't like when customers bring in parts that they sell (and prices for the other work goes up).


This carrier bearing is a great way to spend $250 to fix a $60 ballance problem.
If you're breaking carrier bearing mounts and just want to fix the symptom, welding some braces on a stock style carrier bearing is a lot cheaper.

[Ironangel]

I gave $12 dollars for this one Andy...I figured if the last one lasted 40 years, this one will get me home... That was two or three years ago... I replaced the flexplate a couple of months ago and that $12 dollar carrier bearing is still tight and shines like new!

[Andy4639]

Mine is been done for almost 10 years now and yes it has been modified twice now. Once for the 700r4 and last week for the new 4l80e. I know all about the shaft and balancing it guy's I just want to know where the best price is for one of the billet carrier's.

brad_man_72 If you're breaking carrier bearing mounts and just want to fix the symptom, welding some braces on a stock style carrier bearing is a lot cheaper.

Can you show pictures of this!
I have never broke them but have worn several of these out over the past 26 years.

[FirstOwner69]

The best price I see in the few catalogs I have is at Classic Industries for $114.99. Also, you can get 15% off that with the code I just posted in the promo code thread. That gets the price down to about $97.75 if you act before midnight on the 14th. Part number is CS5801. If you wait, it is very common for them to offer 20% off.

[Fldawg]

i'm not a big fan of the urethane bushings, they don't give like the others and sometime they will squeck. after going thru 2 made in the land of the rising sun, i bought a bca bearing made in canada and its held up ever since and that's been 2 years ago

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

The best price I see in the few catalogs I have is at Classic Industries for $114.99. Also, you can get 15% off that with the code I just posted in the promo code thread. That gets the price down to about $97.75 if you act before midnight on the 14th. Part number is CS5801. If you wait, it is very common for them to offer 20% off.

Thanks for the heads up but I found one on e bay this morning for $95.00 shipped. I ordered it today.


Fldawg,
I hope it last longer than the standard ones do. I'm going on about 8 years on the one in the truck now. I hope it doesn't squeak though.

[truckdude239]

I read somewhere you have to add a slip joint to run that style bearing

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by Andy4639

Mine is been done for almost 10 years now and yes it has been modified twice now. Once for the 700r4 and last week for the new 4l80e. I know all about the shaft and balancing it guy's I just want to know where the best price is for one of the billet carrier's.



Can you show pictures of this!
I have never broke them but have worn several of these out over the past 26 years.

Welding the T is all I have a pic of and the easiest way to add some strength to the stock mount. You can also brace the sides with a 1/2" wide piece of steel from the top sides of the T down to the sides of the O. I hope I explained that to where somebody will understand.


Yes you have to run a slip and stub to use the billet mount.

The actual bearing in the billet carriers is the same that comes in the factory style, so if the bearing goes bad you can buy the cheap assembly to rob the bearing out of it.

I've always seen them around $100, I never looked to see what we paid for them wholesale. Sounds like you did good on price.

[Sicklajoie]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

Welding the T is all I have a pic of and the easiest way to add some strength to the stock mount. You can also brace the sides with a 1/2" wide piece of steel from the top sides of the T down to the sides of the O. I hope I explained that to where somebody will understand.


Yes you have to run a slip and stub to use the billet mount.

The actual bearing in the billet carriers is the same that comes in the factory style, so if the bearing goes bad you can buy the cheap assembly to rob the bearing out of it.

I've always seen them around $100, I never looked to see what we paid for them wholesale. Sounds like you did good on price.

That's exactly what I did with mine after the cheap Chinese spot welding job gave out:

[71 super]

I used one of the billet units in my 68 and no problems. If you are going for performance dont know that it helps, but if visual impact for shows then this is way to go.

[leftybass209]

I'm glad this issue was brought to light recently. I have to change mine out soon and was on the fence of which one to buy. I'm happy to know I can get away with the cheaper one and some welding. Thanks for bringing this up and best of luck with your new carrier Andy4639.

[Andy4639]

Well I'm sorta going for performance since I just did the 6.0 LSx motor swap and the 4l80e transmission but not that much. I just figured it was a good upgrade. I don't know about the slip joint stuff though.I thought it was a direct replacement for the 2 peice drive shaft.

[71 super]

It is a direct replacement I don't have a slip joint, just standard two piece shaft

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by 71 super

It is a direct replacement I don't have a slip joint, just standard two piece shaft

It might fit the same but it certainly doesn't function the same.

As the suspension moves the driveshaft will move foreward and back, the factory rubber was very soft allowing this movement. The billet/poly mount is very rigid and doesn't allow for any movement (in any direction). A trailing arm truck doesn't have as much movement as any other type of suspension but there is some movement.

Can you get away with not having a slip and stub in the rear shaft with a billet/poly bearing, possibly. Is it correct, no.

If you're breaking carrier mounts because your shaft isn't ballanced and don't want to ballance your shaft. Reinforcing a stock bearing mount is cheaper and better than the billet/poly mount. They do look cooler, ill give them that.

[Andy4639]

I haven't broken one in over 15 years. I have worn the rubber out though. I want it for longtivite if nothing else. I had the shaft shortened when I did the 700r4 years ago. I had the same shaft done again a week ago for the 4l80e transmission and it's never given me any trouble. I always had them balanced after cutting them. here it is today.

[Andy4639]

Here is how it's sitting now.

[71 super]

Is the slip joint at the trans not for the movement and the carrier bearing is exactly that a carrier OR support bearing? Considering the shaft actually has a slight angle change just beyond the support bearing and the support is rigidly mounted with the shaft rotating via the bearing, why is a second slip joint needed? I have personally had the vehicle that I have the poly bearing installed on at well over 100 mph at charlotte motor speedway with this bearing in place and NO vibration, mass chaos or other catastrophic failures. I think that qualifies for a pretty good shake down of a part. Is the poly support needed, no, is it better than the Taiwan 25 dollar units yes. Andy I have had problem with the stock type replacements and they as pictures prove are not constructed like the originals and the mid joint on a two piece shaft is a big enough pain to take apart that I did not want to do it every two years. My 68 does not see much driving, but if given the option I would purchase the unit again. I offer this based on my experience with BOTH types of supports and this is a much better constructed unit than the cheaply made parts house replacements.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by 71 super

Is the slip joint at the trans not for the movement and the carrier bearing is exactly that a carrier OR support bearing? Considering the shaft actually has a slight angle change just beyond the support bearing and the support is rigidly mounted with the shaft rotating via the bearing, why is a second slip joint needed? I have personally had the vehicle that I have the poly bearing installed on at well over 100 mph at charlotte motor speedway with this bearing in place and NO vibration, mass chaos or other catastrophic failures. I think that qualifies for a pretty good shake down of a part. Is the poly support needed, no, is it better than the Taiwan 25 dollar units yes. Andy I have had problem with the stock type replacements and they as pictures prove are not constructed like the originals and the mid joint on a two piece shaft is a big enough pain to take apart that I did not want to do it every two years. My 68 does not see much driving, but if given the option I would purchase the unit again. I offer this based on my experience with BOTH types of supports and this is a much better constructed unit than the cheaply made parts house replacements.

Well thank you. I have already bought the bearing and I plan to install it for just that reason peice of mind. I hope!

[brad_man_72]

I have just a little bit of experience, I've built thousands of driveshafts. Including a few dozen with this style carrier bearing for both cars and trucks. So take anything I say with a grain of salt.

You had your shaft cut down and ballanced a few weeks ago and want to redo it again?

Whoever ballanced your shaft put the center weight on the front shaft instead of the rear, welding a weight on the front shaft can warp the stub that the carrier bearing goes through. Definetly not something id do because I like to ballance shafts quickly the first time.

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by 71 super

Is the slip joint at the trans not for the movement and the carrier bearing is exactly that a carrier OR support bearing?

That's exactly how the stock carrier bearing works because the carrier bearing rubber is very soft.
With the billet/poly carrier bearing the driveshaft is mounted solid to the frame and the rear end. So the trans slip yoke only slides if the engine is moving fore and aft in the frame.

In theory the engine should be mounted pretty sturdy to the frame, and the rear end is mounted solid to the moving suspension. I prefer not to mount something solid to the frame and solid to the moving suspension.
99% of every other multiple piece driveline setup they use a carrier bearing more solid than this style, they also will always have a slip yoke in the rear shaft to account for rear end movement unless IRS. In every single RWD one piece driveline that isn't in a newish corvette the shaft has a slip joint.

Exactly zero automotive manufactures us a carrier bearing as solid as the billet/poly unit. Not even for semi trucks. Not even with a slip in the rear shaft.

[Andy4639]

Originally Posted by brad_man_72

I have just a little bit of experience, I've built thousands of driveshafts. Including a few dozen with this style carrier bearing for both cars and trucks. So take anything I say with a grain of salt.

You had your shaft cut down and ballanced a few weeks ago and want to redo it again?

Whoever ballanced your shaft put the center weight on the front shaft instead of the rear, welding a weight on the front shaft can warp the stub that the carrier bearing goes through. Definetly not something id do because I like to ballance shafts quickly the first time.

I had the shop that swapped the motor do the drive line. This is how they did it. I have another shaft I plan to take the measurements off of this one and have it cut down with all new bearings and yokes and whatever else I need. The shaft seems OK but I had questions on it ever since they did it. The poly bearing will be more of a show peice it looks like more than anything else.

[airdale94]

All driveshafts need slip somewhere whether it's a 2-piece or 1 solid. It can be at the trans. tailshaft. Or if your trans. has a flange (bolt and strap) like at the differential, the slip has to be incorporated into the driveshaft.

[brad_man_72]

Originally Posted by airdale94

All driveshafts need slip somewhere whether it's a 2-piece or 1 solid. It can be at the trans. tailshaft. Or if your trans. has a flange (bolt and strap) like at the differential, the slip has to be incorporated into the driveshaft.

The slip has to be between the rear end and the frame. The stock soft carrier allowed some movement. Making the trans tailshaft the only part solid mounted to the frame, so that's where the factory had the only slip.