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Old 04-26-2017, 02:30 PM   #1
Stocker
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Question Replace tie rod ends, drag link?

Looking for some advice, please. There is slight wear at one end of the drag link and one tie rod end, so I'd like to replace everything before I have the front end aligned. This is on my '72 K20 and is all OEM.

Near as I can tell, I need inner and outer ends plus an adjusting sleeve for the drag link, and left & right side tie rod ends. Probably AC Delco or Moog -- your thoughts? Doesn't seem to be rocket science but I'd like to get the right parts the first time .

Also, any tips for doing the job? I *might* get lucky and separate the parts with a hammer, but a pickle fork sounds like the better choice, especially considering these parts haven't been touched since the truck was built. Is any special size pickle fork needed? NAPA lists a 21/32" cheapie ($7).

I appreciate any input -- thanks, guys!
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Old 04-26-2017, 03:25 PM   #2
custom10nut
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?

Go to auto zone and borrow the fork. The tie rod ends separate real easy, and the inners and outer a are the same part number. I if your adjusting sleeves aren't rusted out or seized, you can reuse them. Tie rods are an easy job on these trucks. What's tricky is finding a shop that can still align the old stuff.
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Old 04-26-2017, 03:52 PM   #3
GASoline71
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?

Pickle forks suck. Use a BFH. If it's not coming apart hit it harder. I haven't used a pickle fork in 30 years.

Gary
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Old 04-26-2017, 04:13 PM   #4
leddzepp
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?

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Originally Posted by GASoline71 View Post
Pickle forks suck. Use a BFH. If it's not coming apart hit it harder. I haven't used a pickle fork in 30 years.

Gary
X2. Just did this last week on the 68.
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Old 04-27-2017, 12:54 PM   #5
Stocker
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?

Per the above advice, gonna try the BFH before a pickle fork.

One more thing, is antiseize on the threads a good idea or bad idea?
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Old 04-27-2017, 01:46 PM   #6
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Re: Replace tie rod ends, drag link?

antiseize on the threads at the adjuster is fine, no where else though. I use a BFH and pry on the tie rod as I'm hitting it at the joint to get it to pop.
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