New to old Chevs-looking at a '69 C20, any advice?

[Marauder_Pilot]

I'm looking at picking up a '69 C20 for a restoration project. Here's the pictures of the truck I have:





From what the owner tells me, the truck is complete and close to running-when last run, it was having problems with the starter and just needs a few shims to start. Also, the rear passenger wheel is locked up and there some rust in the hood and rockers-the hood may need to be replaced, but the rockers can be repaired.

Asking price is $800 OBO. Has a 3-speed manual and a 350.

So, any advice? I'm new to restorations, but I've got a decent background in automotive hobbies (Mostly in Jeeps). Anything else I should make sure to look to before buying? Ideally, I'd like to give the whole thing a light overhaul and modernization-the dream project in the end would be to repaint the whole thing, clean off and repair any rust in there, rebuild the engine and transmission, possibly convert it to fuel injection (More for reliability for regular driving than any performance needs)

[gysgtc]

That is a good price

[Danny Bost]

Be sure to crawl under it and check the floor real well. These trucks tend to rust the floors out. Bolt on panels are easy. Be sure the rust repair is within your repair ability. Paying someone else to do it gets expensive. Good price on the truck overall.
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[sameyrasmea72]

Trucks may be difficult to find where you live, but to me that truck looks very rusty. Have you seen it in person? It looks like the wheel arches are rusty. I would check the floors, (under carpet and underneath cab) bed floor, core support to name a few. I would bet $5 there is rust above the sun visors and on the firewall.

Hopefully I am wrong but I have a feeling there is more rust than what he said. If there is more rust, he may not even be aware of it himself.

If just the hood and rockers are rusted, then that is a fair price because hoods are cheap and most trucks need the rockers replaced.

[71swb4x4]

I don't know your skill level so I will ramble a bit.
Spend more money on a truck more solid. Body work is the most expensive and the biggest reason projects get abandoned.
If that truck is fairly solid and you have the tools and skills for bodywork $800 is probably a good deal.
Once you start looking hard for a 67-72 you will realize that they are common. Hold out for one that matches your skills.
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[Wrenchbender Ret]

Remember the 3/4 ton does not have the value of a 1/2 ton.

[Marauder_Pilot]

Thanks for all the advice guys. I asked the seller to get some pictures of the wheel arches.

I don't have a huge depth of experience with rust repair-I've done some on my Jeep, but they were all fairly simple repair, when the repair wasn't just 'sand down, apply POR-15 and bolt a corner guard or some rocker guards on top'

But, better yet, I've found a guy locally who says he has a bunch of C/Ks of that generation laying around, and a bunch of parts too. I'm going to see what he has and try to find something a bit more locally-the prospect of towing a 4000-pound truck through the mountains with either a Toyota Tundra or a lifted F-150 wasn't exactly all engaging.

[RenoKeene]

Welcome to the board from way down here in Florida!
Keep looking, rust is expensive. They made a million of these so I'm sure you can find a good one. It is better to pay a little more for a solid piece.
Neil Young was right about one thing.....rust never sleeps.

[mtruckr]

I'm always leery of the 'ran when parked' story.
I also hate the 'simple' repair that just happens to keep the engine from being started for a test. ("It only needs a fuel pump.")
I have bought 2 vehicles that were not running when purchased... such a condition may not kill the deal, but it should certainly factor into any offer made... just figure any $$ saved is going directly into the engine bay.
If this is your first one, and the first one you've looked at... go find #2 and have something to compare it to.

Good Luck!

[71swb4x4]

If you can't put your eyes on it then you certainly should not buy it. An $800 truck is not a truck to drive a long distance for. It is not a great deal, or it would have sold by now.
An $8,000 truck is one you may drive a long ways for, but $800 is not.
If you must go after this truck at the very least find someone close to look at it for you. I have looked at a truck that was close to me for another board member and I had a board member check out a Californian truck for me.

[mud.man.rj]

$800 seems cheap but that means you will be paying a lot more, I would not look for work in a truck but try to find something nicer that has more done to it and pay now for a solid body, mech parts are easy but body work and parts are really costly and time comsuming.

[Marauder_Pilot]

Originally Posted by 71swb4x4

If you can't put your eyes on it then you certainly should not buy it. An $800 truck is not a truck to drive a long distance for. It is not a great deal, or it would have sold by now.
An $8,000 truck is one you may drive a long ways for, but $800 is not.
If you must go after this truck at the very least find someone close to look at it for you. I have looked at a truck that was close to me for another board member and I had a board member check out a Californian truck for me.

Normally I'd agree, but the North is a little different for used cars. Rust isn't an especially prevalent problem because there's no salt on the road and the ocean is frozen half the time so it's not constantly blowing in, but up here people generally buy one truck every 10-20 years and drive the wheels off it-finding [i]anything[i] that old that's even remotely salvageable is a bit of a challenge. And, since there's maybe 75,000 people living within a 10 hour drive of me, it's not like I have a colossal pool of stuff to choose from.

But I am talking to a local guy who has a bunch of old C/Ks. Hopefully I hear back from him today so I can go see what he has around.

[71swb4x4]

At the very least find someone to look at it for you.

[mud.man.rj]

At least look around for other options and if none then take a good look underneath and if you can weld then no big deal if you can't then make sure the floor is better than good because you will be paying someone else.

[mcbassin]

Welcome to the board. Not sure how deep you are wanting to go with your restoration. I would agree with the opinions above, find one that has "managable" rust. Ask me how I know...I'm on the home stretch on my cab. I have spent a solid 4 months fixing rust and making it solid. If you're up to the challenge go for it. The cabs on these trucks weren't designed for 40 years of service.

[bartstoy]

Definitely take a look for yourself or have someone do it for you. Consider where it is and what it was used for. Crawl under it once all that white stuff is gone and literally "poke" around. The gas tank and radiator will probably need some attention for sure. Some of the parts under the bed may be scarce or expensive, because it is a 3/4 ton. Get into the corners from the inside and poke some more. If all is well $800 bucks is a good number.

[GASoline71]

I would pass on that for $800 bucks. Especially if they don't know if it runs or not. Thats a $300 dollar truck if you ask me.

I got my '72 with MINIMAL rust and it runs, drives, and stops. Drove it home from the field we yarded it out of on a 2 hour trek home with no issues. I paid $1,000 dollars for it.

There are better deals out there to be had... ya just gotta look harder and be patient.

Also... restorations are super expensive. Makin' a cool ass truck, that turns heads and sounds good can be done for relatively cheap.

Gary

[mud.man.rj]

I only want a cool truck not a cool ass truck, haha, just kidding Gas.

[GASoline71]

HA!

Gary

[mud.man.rj]

It was funny because I always say stuff like cool ass truck or car and never noyiced myself.

[mud.man.rj]

Was laughing so much I couldn't spell noticed correctly.

[Marauder_Pilot]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

Also... restorations are super expensive. Makin' a cool ass truck, that turns heads and sounds good can be done for relatively cheap.

Yeah, restoration might not be the right word-basically, I want an old C/K with a slightly more modern drivetrain for reliability purposes and a paintjob that doesn't have 60 years of fading in it, and I'm happy. My ideal truck would just be a fuel-injected 350, a rebuild and uprated transmission, disc brake conversions and brake boosters, some new upholstery on the seats and a nice factory paintjob.

Judging on your guys' input, I think I'll pass on this truck. Thanks for all the advice, and I'll definitely keep my eyes out. I noticed today that a local mechanics shop has a GMC C10 of the same vintage out front that, judging by the dust on it and the condition, drove into its spot but hasn't moved in a little while. I'll give them a call in the morning and see what's up with it.

Also, are C20s generally harder to get parts for? I prefer them, mainly because I'd like something I can comfortably tow my Jeep or some snowmobiles or quads with on occasion (Not often or far), but I'll pass if its difficult to get parts for them.

Also, how does parts compatibility run between these trucks and newer ones? My kid brother has a '90-something Silverado with a blown engine I can pick parts off of-are any parts on there worth keeping for a swap?

[MalibuSSwagon]

If the newer Silverado is TBI, you can certainly take the wiring harness and fuel injection off and swap it over to your 350 quite easily, also the overdrive trans

[PanelDeland]

Hey Maurader,welcome to the board.My suggestion would be to start reading the forums and checking the issues others have had.The build forums will give you lots of ideas for mods like later engines,suspansion,comfort items(A/C,PS,PB etc.),They will also show the process involved in repairing rust in various areas.This will help you judge a truck that fits your skill set better.
BTW 3/4 parts are readily available.

[Marauder_Pilot]

Originally Posted by MalibuSSwagon

If the newer Silverado is TBI, you can certainly take the wiring harness and fuel injection off and swap it over to your 350 quite easily, also the overdrive trans

Well, that makes life a lot easier. I was getting kinda wary when I saw that all the fuel injection kits were $2000 or so, it would be cheaper just to carry around a spare 350...