My 89 CC Dually: Double Wide

[SCOTI]

One step forward..... 3 steps back.


A-arm mock up & measurements were done using the larger C30 spec'd dbl convoluted Firestone bags. Once everything was tacked together I test fit one of the bags w/50psi of air to verify clearances.

With the arms almost done now, I assembled the pass side so I could set it down on its full weight to allow disassembly of the drivers side. When I did this, I noticed my margin of clearance was reduced more than I cared for. I could not wedge a yard stick between the bag & F/R 'pocket' edges on the a-arm. It doesn't touch; but it's also just sitting still....

So I looked up alternative bag choices & decided to change directions. A call to AZ Perf was made & I now have a set of Porterbuilts lower arms on order. Nice thing about these is I get the caster benefit, bag clearance, & they already have the sway bar bracket that I'll need so that means fab work on the front should be done.

At least the a-arm mod put the bag & ride heights right where I was expecting (~6" @ 100psi). I'll prob go ahead & finish them out & use them on a 1/2 ton since the smaller diameter 7" bags would clear w/o issue.

Now I'm working on air leaks. It seems my compressor feeding the tank for the rear bags is leaking down. Tank is good (submerged/leak tested @ 50psi) but when connected to the compressor only, it will bleed down over night (enough to kick the comp on).

[cable666guy]

Custom wiring hazards !! Nice build !!

[SCOTI]

This air system is pissin me off. I removed the fittings @ the compressors for re-sealing. I removed the teflon tape & sealed them w/Loctite thread sealant. Same results..... the tanks will bleed down enough to require kicking the comps on after sitting overnight. I guess I'll cut new airlines to eliminate them from the list.

Not sure what it can be other than possibly the drain valves for each tank (they passed the leak test though).

The bags are holding fine so the lines from the valves to the gauges are ok (all leak tested as well prior to installation).

Oh well.... if it was easy, everyone would have custom stuff.

[IowaHooch]

I like where you are going with this. Looks great!

[aggie91]

Scoti - do you have a check valve in the line between the compressor and the tank?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Scoti - do you have a check valve in the line between the compressor and the tank?

No check valve....

That being said, the set-up used in my 68 was done (plumbed) the same way. It could go weeks (months) before the comp cycled & used a Thomas comprssor as well.

Originally Posted by Low Elco

Scoti- check here- havin similar trouble about halfway down the page, may help.

The main diff I see between our systems is mine is all manual paddle valves.

Currently (for isolation purposes) the 'supply' lines from the tanks to the paddle switches are not connected to the tanks. My bags are aired up & holding so from the paddle valve forward there does not appear to be a problem. The 'leak' or where the bleed down is occurring is between the tanks & comp's. The comp's are plumbed to feed the tanks & I have inline PTC plugs in the discharge ports of the tanks (again, just for isolation purposes while investigating the leak).

I might try the check valve approach suggested by Karl.

[SCOTI]

So I did some looking @ lunch..... Where is a good source for a check valve?

My comp's have an 1/8"npt female outlet; tank ports are 1/4"npt female; & using 1/4" DOT airline.

[lolife99]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

So I did some looking @ lunch..... Where is a good source for a check valve?

My comp's have an 1/8"npt female outlet; tank ports are 1/4"npt female; & using 1/4" DOT airline.

I bet member way2lo2 could set you up.
Boris has all kinds of air ride stuff.

[Low Elco]

Scoti- check here- havin similar trouble about halfway down the page, may help.

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...563833&page=52

[lolife99]

http://www.viaircorp.com/checkvalves.html

[SCOTI]

I found some @ a local bolt, fastener, & fitting place. I pulled the supply lines to each tank. The 'front' tank had very little remaining pressure; the rear had alot more.

I re-plumbed the comps w/the check valves inline. I checked on them @ a 3hr dwell time & the comps didn't come on. The pattern has been the 6-12hr mark so I'll follow-up tomorrow am.

The feedback has been appreciated....

[SCOTI]

As of 12hrs, the comps didn't come on when powered up. That's a good sign.
We'll see how things are after work tonight.

[tintbox]

Looking good sir.

[SCOTI]

48hrs & comps still not kicking on. Looks like the check valves solved the issue. Now I'll do some shop cleaning/rearranging & get back on the bed fabrication while waiting on my PB lower arms.

[aggie91]

Good to hear it was a simple fix. Sometimes the compressor is the source of the leak since they are designed to compress the air and not hold the air, hence the need for a check valve.

Ever notice when your shop compressor finishes pumping up the tank that there is a little relief of air that it makes as it stops turning? That is the pressure bleeding the read valve in the compressor so that there is not a high head pressure on the next start up.

Karl

[monte0185]

Looking good. How much are you going to have to cut out of the bed floor with that 4 link setup? When you get to that point pics would be awesome.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by monte0185

Looking good. How much are you going to have to cut out of the bed floor with that 4 link setup? When you get to that point pics would be awesome.

The notch cover slopes from approx 32" @ the base to 12" @ the top. Above the C/L of the rear end, the floor is effectively 6.5" higher than the rest of the floor.
Something like this:

[SCOTI]

The cross sill directly above the front 4-bar mounts will be relieved as necessary for clearance.

[monte0185]

So you will have to raise the center section between the wheel wells approximatley 6.5-7 inches depending on if you want to run an cross sill or not. Wonder what it would take to run a 4 bar like this with bags and not cut the frame or bed? Just getting ideas for mine. Sorry. but thanks for the info. Its looking great.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by monte0185

So you will have to raise the center section between the wheel wells approximatley 6.5-7 inches depending on if you want to run an cross sill or not. Wonder what it would take to run a 4 bar like this with bags and not cut the frame or bed? Just getting ideas for mine. Sorry. but thanks for the info. Its looking great.

Correct. Center section is raised about 6.5".

You could run a 4-bar set-up that is positioned lower F/R while being parallel for more clearance or run a set-up that's not parallel. I considered Ride Techs set-up & Porterbuilts. But, I went the direction I did based on budget goals.

I don't see how you can do any moderate amount of drop w/o cutting into the frame unless it's only getting lowered for sitting still. I drive my stuff low so a c-section was a must have. Since it is a C30, I felt that there should be no compromise in frame strength & went w/step notches to allow a full height (strength) frame section. The trade off is some bed area is lost but I would prefer that compromise vs a strength related one.

I have a full 4+ inches of clearance before the bumpstop touches.

[monte0185]

Im just wanting mine low enough to tuck the top inch or so of the tires like the front of mine but I have no desire for it to drag frame. I do alot of pulling trailers and I wanna pull a 5th wheel camper and bigger GN trailer but like you i dont want to sacrafice frame strength by cutting it but at the same time i need to keep all the bed space I can. I was just thinking i could get rid of the leaf springs and swap to bags to get the stance i like but somehow keep my bedspace but seems like its going to be one or the other i guess.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by monte0185

Im just wanting mine low enough to tuck the top inch or so of the tires like the front of mine but I have no desire for it to drag frame. I do alot of pulling trailers and I wanna pull a 5th wheel camper and bigger GN trailer but like you i dont want to sacrafice frame strength by cutting it but at the same time i need to keep all the bed space I can. I was just thinking i could get rid of the leaf springs and swap to bags to get the stance i like but somehow keep my bedspace but seems like its going to be one or the other i guess.

Mine is set-up to be basically an 8" drop & in theory should tuck the top inch or two of the tires @ ride height. The issue is compression.... I wan't 3" minimum clearance before anything touches the bumpstop which meant the bumpstop point of contact needed to be @ the top of the factory frame rail vs it being bolted to the bottom of the rail.

My 68 was bagged w/c-sections & had about 2" clearance w/no bumpstops. It could tow just fine because w/a load I would add extra room but for the ride height I wanted unloaded it made contact way more than I cared for. My 74 was the same but w/a home built AOL. My 90 is just leafs @ this point but it's worse than both of those were & can't carry anything w/o being on the bumpstops. All had stock floors....

This time around I'm not compromising:

No c-sections that consume 2/3 of the frame rails strength while still allowing contact.
No clearance issues & bumpstops installed for safety.
Better ride quality unloaded.

[aggie91]

Surely by now you have gotten something done on your bed mods. How about some pictures of the progress and an update on this one...

[SCOTI]

Yes & no....

Front re-pop bed panel swapped in place of the old mangled unit. Hammer & dollied the notch cover section of the floor to get it as straight as possible for welding in place. I started focusing on the tub flanges again & realized I should prob be building the flanges w/the center section permanently attached. This meant swapping the floors first & changing the order of things.

It was about this time I decided to hit the easy button.... I'm cutting out the old floor between the tubs & going w/a full raised floor (less fab work). I removed the center stake pocket housings, trimmed the new floor @ the rear outer corners, & have things (spacers) mocked up. I hope to swap the new floor into place over the weekend ~ next week if I can get the necessary man-power to navigate the new floor into position.

Nothing really pic worthy.

[slimneverdies]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Yes & no....

Front re-pop bed panel swapped in place of the old mangled unit. Hammer & dollied the notch cover section of the floor to get it as straight as possible for welding in place. I started focusing on the tub flanges again & realized I should prob be building the flanges w/the center section permanently attached. This meant swapping the floors first & changing the order of things.

It was about this time I decided to hit the easy button.... I'm cutting out the old floor between the tubs & going w/a full raised floor (less fab work). I removed the center stake pocket housings, trimmed the new floor @ the rear outer corners, & have things (spacers) mocked up. I hope to swap the new floor into place over the weekend ~ next week if I can get the necessary man-power to navigate the new floor into position.

Nothing really pic worthy.

Come on, everything is picture worthy around here. Especially when I need ideas