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#1 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,685
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Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
I am thinking I will go back with OEM doors. The Goodmark doors just seem too flimsy compared to the real deal. I still have the original driver side door that was hit, it is straight (not tweeked) but the outer skin needs replaced.
Anyone done it before? Is it a pain, or should I have someone else do it? I would buy the tools to do it correcty (remove and install the lip). Thanks!
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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#2 |
CAN'T FIX NOTHIN
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SOUTHRUST VIRGINIA !!!
Posts: 2,112
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it's not that big a deal
#1 take a grinder and grind all the way around the old skin lip this will release the halve's and the skin will come off , #2 clean and coat or paint or ? put something on the inner structure then apply the new skin by bending the lip over the way the old one was , don't worry if you ding it up or don't get it even , after it is all bent take a hammer and a flat piece of metal or dolly and flatten the lip all the way around , using a straight edge at the bottom you can get it almost perfect #3 some put a few spot weld's here and there that's up to you ,,,,,,,
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1967 C10 Shortbed Fleetside Small back glass 6 cyl 3spd on the tree 3.08 gears underdash AC Last edited by 19673ontree; 04-06-2007 at 11:24 AM. |
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#3 |
Special Order
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Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,859
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
I think that`s what I`d do,too.Or,just do that bottom piece up to the belt-line.Especially on a truck with the trim.I can`t see junking a factory door for the little rust in the outer corners.
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#4 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,685
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
It's a rust-free door, just has a few wrinkles in it from when I was hit. Like a tard, I sold the other door but I still have the driver's door. The door otherwise is perfect, which is why I though I would reskin this one:
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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#5 |
18 Till I Die
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Alberta, Canada
Posts: 1,522
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
I would look for a good used door. IMO once cut apart,its never the same. And once you figure in the skin and time you might be farther ahead in the long run.
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2011 GMC Acadia 1969 GMC BBC LS7 2007 GMC Crew Duramax 1987 Camaro Iroc 350 Tuned Port Injection 42000Km 1987 Chevrolet Silverado 350 TBI 1987 Chevrolet Silverado 350 TBI(yes 2) Take me drunk, I'm too home... ![]() |
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#6 |
Lost amongst the CORN
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Northern Iowa
Posts: 1,072
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Doing a door skin is no big deal. With the skin off you can fix any misalginment in the door shell, etc.
There are two links were I do a door skin removal and install. Althou they are not 67-72 trucks, the SAME methods apply...Eric http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2096451486 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2097633569
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Currently working on How To Videos and custom metal 70 Chevelle gettin Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK 70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY 49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original...close to it Drommer Stor....Norwegian for Dream Big http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/a...lle/?start=all https://www.flickr.com/photos/47922830@N03/ Pictures of my work and projects Last edited by sevt_chevelle; 04-06-2007 at 01:32 PM. |
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#7 | |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,685
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Quote:
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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#8 |
CAN'T FIX NOTHIN
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SOUTHRUST VIRGINIA !!!
Posts: 2,112
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after seeing the picture I would fix that door , if it is rust free like you say that door can be easily fixed , much faster and cheaper than a new skin , those dent's are not bad enough to junk the door ,
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1967 C10 Shortbed Fleetside Small back glass 6 cyl 3spd on the tree 3.08 gears underdash AC |
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#9 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Deer Park, Tx.
Posts: 2,524
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Many people can not put on a door skin without putting filler on the perimeter of the door, however I can, and I will tell you my trick that an old bodyman out of California taught me 20 years ago. Instead of using the old metal dolly use a 2x4 block of wood coated with about 2-3 layers of tape. It will soften the blow and not put a dent of the door skin side. Take your time too with the door and do not try to flatten the metal in any one spot all the way. Work your way around the door a little at a time. Very easy to do. If you do get a high spot on the door, hit it with a metal file, da sand with 80 grit then 180, prime and paint. It should come out fine. It will also give you a chance to coat the inside of the door for future rust!
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#10 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Blountville, Tn.
Posts: 3,904
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
One more thing, don't know if this has been already mentioned. But before you remove the old dented in door skin try and knock out the biggest part of the dent out, because the inner structure was bent too when hit. Probably not much. but it will make a big difference when you put the new door skin on. Just a precaution.
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#11 |
Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 1,787
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
I would fix that skin! -
Grind the paint off the door and find someone who can use a "stud gun" - basically it welds small pins to door and then you pull them out with a slide hammer. An experienced guy should be able to straighten that door out and get it good enough to only use a small amount of plastic just to skim & block it.
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-'07 GMC Sierra K2500HD -'66 C10 Suburban -'68/'71 K20 Service Bed Project -'69 Chevy C30 Mason Dump -'33Ford P/U 396ChevyPowered ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#12 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,685
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
There are a couple of things at play here.... I want minimum to no filler in this truck, as little as practicle. And I want to do as much as possible on my own, like about 99.9999%. I do have a guy helping me get the hail dings out of the roof, but that's because I HATE body work, and really suck at it!
![]() Don't get me wrong, I'm not a "control freak" that won't let anyone else touch my truck, but one of my goals with this truck is to be able to say I did it all by myself. Not "this shop did this, this shop did that", and so on. So between fixing this skin or replacing, I'll probably replace it. I already know I will not get it straight enough to just skim coat it, at least not within this year! Hell, it has sat at this stage for about a year now just because I didn't want to touch the roof! So I finally caved into letting someone elso do it. But that will be the only thing on the truck that will be done by someone else! Thanks for all the tips on how to do this. I ordered a full skin this afternoon, and will give it a shot here in a week or so. I like the idea about the 2x4 also, thanks!
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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#13 |
Special Order
![]() ![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Mt Airy, MD
Posts: 85,859
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
I had this Portugese body guy get all the damage out of a`48 Chevy car roof(kids climbing on it)useing just a torch.I got it back expecting the old fuzzy(1/2 dry rotted) cloth headliner torn out and it was all intact.The guy carefully drew all the dents out with heat,never touched the backside.That was the most impressive metal working I`ve ever seen.
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"BUILDING A BETTER WAY TO SERVE THE USA"......67/72......"The New Breed" GMC '67 C1500 Wideside Super Custom SWB: 327/M22/3.42 posi.........."The '67" (project) GMC '72 K2500 Wideside Sierra Custom Camper: 350/TH350/4.10 Power-Lok..."The '72" (rolling) Tim "Don't call me a redneck. I'm a rough cut country gentleman" R.I.P. ~ East Side Low Life ~ El Jay ~ 72BLUZ ~ Fasteddie69 ~ Ron586 ~ 67ChevyRedneck ~ Grumpy Old Man ~ |
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#14 |
CAN'T FIX NOTHIN
Join Date: Sep 2006
Location: SOUTHRUST VIRGINIA !!!
Posts: 2,112
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I've noticed a couple remark's here and there about body filler ?
people don't worry about that anymore it's just part of old car truck restoration , as long as it's put on a clean solid surface it will never give any trouble , and with the way these truck's panel's are off here and there it's a must have !! just watch the TV show's where they fix up old vehicle's , overhaulin in particular they have million's of dollar's at their dissposal and the whole country watching what they are doing and guess what ! the car's are COVERED from one end to the other with body filler top to bottom !!! DON'T WORRY ABOUT IT !! that door in the picture is fixable ! one afternoon of work and yes a little filler and it will be good as new !!
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1967 C10 Shortbed Fleetside Small back glass 6 cyl 3spd on the tree 3.08 gears underdash AC |
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#15 |
Weekend Warrior
Join Date: Oct 2004
Location: CT
Posts: 1,787
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
My reasoning is that the new skin might be heavy guage - but the fit probably won't be as good as the OEM.
as far as "I want no filler" - It will never happen - the nicest paint jobs in the world have filler. If you HATE body work than why attempt to put a skin on the door?
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-'07 GMC Sierra K2500HD -'66 C10 Suburban -'68/'71 K20 Service Bed Project -'69 Chevy C30 Mason Dump -'33Ford P/U 396ChevyPowered ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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#16 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,685
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
For me, body work = working filler. I hate working with bondo.
Actually, the only place on the truck where there will be filler will be the roof (someone else doing it), back of the cab where I installed the 3rd brake light, and a small section on the right cab corner. All the rest is new sheet metal, and if there were dings, and there were very few, I have already worked those out and will need no filler. So, maybe I have to lower my standards to 98.9999%
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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#17 |
Lost amongst the CORN
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Northern Iowa
Posts: 1,072
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Well since you hate body filler then here's a few links for ya.
You should be able to have access to the backside and work the metal properly. Personally I would not use a stud gun on that damage. http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2093955818 http://www.imagestation.com/album/pi...?id=2103083895 The following text was writting by Wray Schelin I 'll share with you how I remove a small dent . An easy example will work best, so lets say, its the rear fender of a XK120. The dent is in the middle of the rear section of the fender, and its is about the size of your fist, sunken in about 3/4" in the center. All paint and undercoating should be removed first. I would first select a dolly that has a crown that is close to the fender; in this case that would be a medium crown. Using a glove to protect my fingers I would palm the dolly and lightly tap it against the bump on the inside of the fender; carefully watching the progress of the rising depression. I would use this process until I got the dent up to within 1/8" of the surface. This will happen within minutes- this is called roughing out the dent. Next I would hold the dolly tightly against the center of the damage , on the backside, while I use the slapper on the front, tapping the circumference of the dent. This is a dolly off action, the slapper and dolly are not clashing with each other, they are beside one another. I would keep tapping away with the slapper, moving the dolly tightly with some force, against the lowest area of the dent. Slowly the dent will rise to very close to the surface level. The slapper does this operation very effectively because it has such a large surface area, compared to a hammer. With a hammer you're hitting a smaller area and you might dent the area you're hammering against because it will yield easier than the center of the dent. Roughing and slapping the dent has reduced the dent by about 90% and progress was swift. The next stage of metal finishing requires the bag of tricks and the tools. The problem that you encounter at this final stage is, you have trouble seeing what you're doing because your actions have to be small. When you were roughing you could easily see the metal move closer to the surface; but now you might only have to move the metal forty thousands of an inch or less to reach the true surface. At this stage a common practice is to use a pick hammer. In my opinion a pick hammer has many drawbacks: one- you need room to be able to swing it; and generally the hammer itself might be 6" or more across the head. Two- it is very easy to over hit with a pick hammer and cause irrepairable damage. Three- more likely than not you will not be able to strike the low spot, instead you will hit the high spot worsening the problem. The safest bet is to retire your pick hammer. This verdict also applies to the bulls-eye gimmick tools which use a C shaped frame to guide you to the elusive low spot. If you go down the bulls-eye road you will find your garage populated with many expensive sizes and versions absolutely needed to remove all those pesky dents and dings. You will always be one bulls-eye tool short. What I do at this stage is coat the damaged area entirely with the 1/2" wide red magic marker ( thats a US trade name for those who might not be familiar with them- there is no magic, its just a felt ink marker) Next I draw the fine body file over the area, just lightly skimming the surface, this will quickly reveal the high and low spots. The object now is to raise the low spots. You can do this by placing a dolly with a high crown surface tightly against the low spot. You will only be guessing at this point unless you have x-ray vision . You find out where you really are with the dolly by lightly slapping the surface, with the the slapper a few times, trying deliberately to strike the dollies crown. If you are successful - and you probably will be, because of the slappers large working surface- you will hear the ring of the contact of the metals. Slide the slapper to the side, but leave the dolly where it is. You should be able to see a 1/8" diameter ( a 1/8" inch affected area will raise quickly with little force , the size of the mark made when you slap it determines the speed of the metal rise. 1/8" is fast 1/2" is slow) clear spot, or slightly less inked, in a region of the small low spot that you were raising. If you goofed and hit a high area instead you should be able to see a difference there too. Whether you were in the right area or not is not important, what is most important, is establishing where you are and being able to adjust . Watch the trail marks left in the inked surface and you can steer the dolly, on the backside, easily to where it is needed. Slap lightly, slowly raising the low spot. After a few minutes, refile the area and your progress will become apparent. You might have to wash off the marker ink ; re-ink, and refile several times. Each working of the area will reduce the size of the low spots. Remember that the filing is meant just to scrape off the ink and not to reduce the thickness of the metal. The force and stroke of the slapper will be less as you progress. When you have reduced the low areas to less than 1/2" in diameter, and when you rub your hand over the area you still slightly feel them, you are ready to use the shrinking disc. The condition of the metal at this point is stressed and springy as a result of all the trauma inflicted on it. The original damage has been raised but in the process the metal has been stretched a little. If you applied bondo at this stage some of the bondo would surround the damaged area, feathering in the new surface height. With the marker ink still on, and a wet rag handy, crank up the body grinder with the shrinking disc and rub the area. You vary the pressure according to how much you need to shrink. On the first pass I usually apply light pressure. The metal will quickly begin to rise and expand from the heat build-up. Remove the disc and wipe the area with a wet rag. With that operation you have started to shrink, stress relieve and further fine tune the outline of the low spots. You can now re-mark with ink, file and further tap out the low spots with the slapper and dolly. Some dents might require several cycles, but as you hone your technique you should be able to remove most dents in fewer cycles . At this stage an obvious high spot might have developed. You can easily remove it by rubbing the shrinking disc over it; it will heat to a blue condition in seconds, and then cool with the wet rag. After I'm satisfied that I can no longer effectively raise any remaining tiny low spots (depressions only a few thousands of an inch deep). I then install the very dull 120 grit 9" grinding disc and proceed to work the area with it. The grinding disc will level the area leaving a almost polished surface, it will heat the area quickly also, so cool it with a rag after you done grinding. If you have done everything correctly you should have a very smooth surface , that is stress free and in no need of bondo. If you practice these techniques on some old , damaged, and unimportant sheetmetal parts you will quickly hone your skill.
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Currently working on How To Videos and custom metal 70 Chevelle gettin Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK 70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY 49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original...close to it Drommer Stor....Norwegian for Dream Big http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/a...lle/?start=all https://www.flickr.com/photos/47922830@N03/ Pictures of my work and projects Last edited by sevt_chevelle; 04-08-2007 at 01:02 PM. |
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#18 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,685
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Well, I got the old skin off. That took all of just a few minutes! The door had a little dirt inside from sitting outside, but it cleaned up real nice. I ordered some POR-15 this morning to coat the inside with. The skin fits on real good, and is a heavy gauge panel. Removed the Goodmark door and got the old door installed and only had to tweak the lower part toward the front to line up with the rocker panel better. I need to run up to Finishmasters and get the bonding adhesive, then maybe I can get it finished up before we start the cab work.
Thanks a ton for the links sevt_chevelle!! Good stuff!
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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#19 |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 23,090
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
The frenched antenna looks cool!! I saved the original doors off my 67 for the same reason. They had rot on the bottom, but were straight and solid overall. They need the bottom skin. The goodmark doors fit well, but are fairly flimsy. Compared to stock.
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Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride ![]() American Born, Country by the Grace of God ![]() 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! |
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#20 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,685
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Yeah, I just didn't like the way they felt either. I shouldn't have much trouble finding a good passenger door around here. Frenched antenna, thanks! I have always wanted to do one of those, and it just seemed like the thing to do once the gas tank was out. Have you got anything fixed on yours yet? Is insurance going to cover anything?
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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#21 | |
Hittin E-Z Street on Mud Tires
![]() Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Greenville, SC
Posts: 23,090
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Quote:
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__________________
Jesse James 1967 C10 SWB Stepside: 350/700R4/3.73 1965 Ford Mustang: 289/T5-5spd/3.25 Trac-Loc 1968 Pontiac Firebird: Project Fire Chicken! 2015 Silverado Double Cab 5.3L Z71 2001 Jeep Wrangler Sport 4.0L 5spd 2020 Chevrolet Equinox Premium 2.0L Turbo 2011 Mustang V6 ~ Wife's ride ![]() American Born, Country by the Grace of God ![]() 1967 CST Shop Truck Rebuild! My 1967 C-10 Build Thread My Vintage Air A/C Install Project "On a Dime" Trying my hand at Home Renovation! 1965 Mustang Modifications! |
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#22 |
Lost amongst the CORN
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Northern Iowa
Posts: 1,072
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
In case you havent done this yet but close and open the door several times, checking how the door opens/closes. You are looking for binds, misalignment, get that door to shut close with just a gentle push.
Then dry fit the skin onto that frame while its on the truck. Check how the skin fits the shell and the rest of the truck. Do not apply any glue til you are happy with fit!!! NOW is the time to make adjustments not when its glued in place and the hem folded over. As you can tell that frame is very movable without that skin on. You can make it do ANYTHING you want. Once the skin fits good to the rest of the truck mark its location on the frame in atleast two spots. Doing this will guarantee that skin goes directly back into the proper fitment. Is there a spot on the top of the skin that welds to frame where the window fuzzies go? If so that would be a great spot to use two sheet metal screws to use as locators. Once the skin is done, just weld up the holes. If that top portion of the skin is NOT like that then you cant use locator holes. What you will to do since you dont have locator screws is just hem the fold over around 70% then re-install the door. With the hem half way folded you can easily move the skin around on the frame. Close the door, get the skin fitting the truck. Then carefully open the door and fold over the hem in a few different spots. Doing this will "tack" the skin in place. Close the door, check the fit again, if it fits remove the door and finish the folding over the hem. The link I gave you with the car door skin is pretty darn close as a step by step that you will do on your truck. I had no locator screws on that and re-installed the door to get my final fit of the skin then "tacked" the skin in place by folding over the hem in a few spots. Dont be afraid to ask questions...Eric
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Currently working on How To Videos and custom metal 70 Chevelle gettin Sliced and Diced Anything But STOCK 70 Chevelle SS455 not a typo its a BUICK BABY 49 and 72 Chevy Trucks restored to original...close to it Drommer Stor....Norwegian for Dream Big http://s969.photobucket.com/albums/a...lle/?start=all https://www.flickr.com/photos/47922830@N03/ Pictures of my work and projects |
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#23 |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,685
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Awesome! I about pooped when I saw your thread, glad the damage was as minimal as it was! Coulda been much worse.
__________________
Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE |
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#24 |
Account Suspended
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Deer Park, Tx.
Posts: 2,524
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Yeah baby, go go go with the door skin!!!!!!!!
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#25 | |
Next project: 1970 K10
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Fort Collins, Colo 80524
Posts: 6,685
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Re: Has anyone here re-skinned a door?
Thanks for all the tips Eric! I need to pull the fender off (need to do this anyhow), as I need to lower both hinges about an 1/8". This door came off this truck, and it's obvious now that he Goodmarks door isn't very close at all to the original fit. I did do a little tweaking last night, not much needed. But once I get the door raised a little, then I will set the skin on and start adjusting and marking it like you said.
Quote:
Thanks again!
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Bob 1970 Chevy K10 LWB "Goldie" 350/TH350 next project!! 1981 Chevy C10 LWB 355/TH350 - My son's truck LS SWAP FORUM! Tons of LS swap info here! PLEASE CLICK HERE TO SUPPORT THE GREATEST BOARD ON THE NET! CLICK HERE FOR THE FAQ INDEX by KRUE Last edited by glock35ipsc; 04-13-2007 at 01:02 PM. |
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