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06-15-2019, 07:19 PM | #1 |
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Join Date: May 2011
Location: Goliad, TX
Posts: 672
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Windshield rubber not sealing
Had a new windshield installed on my 1990 Suburban but the rubber seal is not sealing around this bend. The original seal was reused. Is this a concern and if so, what's the fix?
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1990 ¾ ton 4x4 Chevy Suburban -Cummins Diesel - 12 valve - factory rebuilt -6 speed bullet proof manual transmission - NV5600 -Gear Vendors Overdrive - HX35 Holset Turbo -NP205 iron transfer case -3.73 gears -2" Lift |
06-15-2019, 10:58 PM | #2 |
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Join Date: May 2013
Location: Houston Texas
Posts: 713
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Re: Windshield rubber not sealing
Had same problem when I bought mine, put some tape down and filled with black silicone and can hardly notice. May not be the right way, but didn’t want to try and take it out.
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1986 C10, 2011 5.3 w/6L80, 3.42 w/ Detroit TrutTrac Build thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=584532 |
06-16-2019, 02:13 PM | #3 |
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Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: Ottawa, Ontario, Canada
Posts: 764
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Re: Windshield rubber not sealing
I would check the bead lock stirp that it lock in good, or maybe take out the lock strip and get some soapy water spray the rubber on both side of the glass. Reinstall the bead lock strip make sure it is set in place snug and let set in the heat of the sun one day. That should seal it, unless rubber not right location or there is rust in on the pinch channel that will have to be fixed first. If the used rubber damaged in the channel or the bead lock channel it may leek. if the bed lock strip has been stretched too much it may need a new bead lock strip to seal. Tools to uses are plastic trim spades take out the bead lock strip push center alum clip to one side @ the center bottom pop out the bead lock strip work it out all the way around. Take the tool work out around the glass in side and out side to loosen the seal on the body and the glass channel. Once seal is popped start one of the corners with light pressure on the in side @ the same place your working on the out side glass channel and around till the glass pops out (( take your time go slow go around a few times if you have to till the glass starts to pop up all around )).
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1977 REG cab Long Bed with a 1984 Front Clip, 82 305 .60 over 9.0.1 flat top pistons, 4bbl, TH350, w/84 SS-intake & cam , w/ 1977 big block rad, 1975 gear box, 1984 master w/ metric fittings top & SAE fitting @ portion block, 1975 3.42 gear open diff. Duel 77-87 Factory air cleaner, duel inlet from rad support . Down sized 9' to new 8' Steel flat bed Was a 77 454 w/308 gear. Taken out 550 lbs. up front with motor clip change. |
06-18-2019, 02:21 PM | #4 |
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Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 3,188
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Re: Windshield rubber not sealing
The 3 squares I have owned all leaked from the top and bottom corners. This was mostly due to the pinch welds(?) in these locations not being flat. The slightly raised edges of the sheet metal caused the windshield seal to not make good contact with the metal surface. For me, the fix was to have the metal hammered down and crimped with some vice grips and two pieces of angle iron, then sealant used under the seal.
I will no longer use the lockstrip type seals. You cannot get chrome lockstrip that does not flake off within 2 weeks. I got a piece of black lockstrip but I don't like the looks of that either. So, when my windshield gets replaced I will used the base level seal with no provision for a lockstrip. |
06-27-2019, 09:11 PM | #5 |
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: Sherwood, Oregon
Posts: 974
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Re: Windshield rubber not sealing
You have to push the hell out of the rubber in the corners to get a tight seal.
Old rubbers are harder to compress than new ones. One piece is harder to install than one with a locking strip. Replacement windshields are about .120 thinner than OEM, so that add to the mix. Either way, compress the crap out of the rubber in the corners. . . otherwise, you end up with what you have.
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