Body lift newbie

[Rede]

I picked up a 3" body lift for my pickup ('80 k10) and have gone as far as removing all the bolts for the cab and box. (front clip and fenders removed for engine swap)


Can someone tell me what exactly I need to move/disconnect under the cab and box before lifting?

The instuctions aren't much help and since it's just me doing it, I don't want to miss anything while lifting via a jack.

At least if I know what to disconnect or look for ahead of time I could avoid some i$$ues
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[drunkbus]

Disconnect the fuel filler hose for the gas tank. I learned this the hard way a few years ago. When I lifted the bed up it sucked the bed sides in. Luckily they popped back out after loosening the fuel filler hose.

[special-K]

What vehicle is it on? And,tell us more about it.

[Rede]

Originally Posted by drunkbus

Disconnect the fuel filler hose for the gas tank. I learned this the hard way a few years ago. When I lifted the bed up it sucked the bed sides in. Luckily they popped back out after loosening the fuel filler hose.

Thanks for reminding me! lol

[Rede]

Originally Posted by special-K

What vehicle is it on? And,tell us more about it.

1980 1/2 ton 4x4:

- '99 vortec 454 swap with 136k km (performer 2.0 intake, qjet carb, GM marine cam swap, double roller timing chain, 454HO valve springs/rotor eliminators/retainers/new valve seals, Accel distributor and HEI...nothing crazy. Guestimating ~350hp/450trq to the crank)

-Th400/205 swap
-dana60 front swap /4.56gears (10.5" FF 14bolt 4.10gears from previous owner)
-39.5"x18" TSL Boggers (came one truck, too big for 6" lift and cut fenders and one rear tire sliced because of it...reason for body lift!)
-One of the dinkiest steering wheels ever...needs to go :@

Its not pretty, but it'll work:


Had to drop the front end to clear the crossmember as my hoist wouldn't go much higher to clear the transmission.


Had to get creative when this rear driver's cab mount bolt was seized ito place and started spinning the square nut on the end. It was held in place by some sort of loops/bracket... WHY GM?? WHY?!!?


Front fenders started rusting out pretty bad after someone trimmed them and didn't touch up the paint. Inner fenders also were toast as you can see...


Would you like a slice? One is enough for me...

[Rede]

We carefully raised the drivers side of the cab with my floor jack and a couple of 6x6 blocks under the front corner and I used my engine by hooking onto the door striker post.
It actually worked pretty good.
Only thing we had to watch for was the cab shifting forward a bit and the rear brake cable running just behind the front cab mount.

However I was a little puzzled to find the cab appears to have 2-2.5" bushings installed from the factory...?
Not sure if this was for clearing the saddle tanks or what.
Needless to say I'll need to find bolts 1/2" bolts that are going to be damn near 12" long. Or maybe threaded 1/2" rod...? Hmmm
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[Rede]

Managed to find two 1/2"x10" and tomorow (weather permitting) I hope to have the cab lifted and finished.

I am however a little lost on what to do with the steering shaft after drilling out the two plastic rivits...
I drilled about a 1/4" or so on both sides and started to see a few metal shavings coming up so I stopped.

Is that all there is the the rivits and all I have to do there, or am I suppose to drill right through both rivits?
Do I need to extend the shaft somehow between the two pieces to make up for the extra height?


Or am I just over thinking this and should just drill the plastic out and move along with the next step?

[madcow75]

What about shift linkage and steering linkage and the rad shroud and hoses.

[Rede]

There's a 3" steel rod to extend the shift linkage.
I'm going to run a floor shifter because I don't have an automatic column.
The shifter is a B&M ratchet which uses a cable so an extra 3" I don't think will be an issue.
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