83 C10 - short bed - c-notch

[ProStreet83C10]

hey guys, a buddy is helpinging me do my notch on sunday as well as maybe pulling out a leaf from the rear end to get it to sit more level. Any hints/tips/suggestions/"to do's" or "NOT to dos" would be GREATLY appreciated as im really nervous about cutting my frame up!!!!

Let me know so i dont have a nervous breakdown in the middle of the initial cut!

[gchemist]

Read this: http://www.73-87.com/7387garage/chas...n/csection.htm

Good luck. I may be doing mine next month.

[camshaftgsxr]

Id rather do this than start another thread, what's the lowest drop (in inches) one can do before a c notch becomes mandatory?
Posted via Mobile Device

[1LowToy]

I's do your spring thing first and determin if you really need a C notch. What have you done to lower your truck so far?

I've been both ways and I figured out that lowering too much in front you may not like the final result. I didn't find it too practical. Looks fun but when tires don't fit the way you would like it changes things. Many of the chevy trucks you will find have a leaning factor that you have to deal with too.

[J Knight]

If you do a typical flip kit with "unaltered" leaf springs for a 5in drop you dont need a c-notch, and you will have about 2.5-3in clearance from axle to frame. If you want a drop more than that you will need a c-notch.

[camshaftgsxr]

Alright thanks guys!
Posted via Mobile Device

[ProStreet83C10]

im at 6" lower right now than factory and every bump i hit my bump stop brackets smack the axle tube. i may start by just removing brackets and seeing what kind of clearance i have....if i dont HAVE to notch my frame id rather not, but if i do i will.

[lolife99]

Definitely remove the bracket first.

[ProStreet83C10]

yeah, not sure how much itll give me but i will remove and decide from there

[ProStreet83C10]

ok guys, today is D-Day, heading out in a few min to start the process, any last minute tips/tricks/etc on what and or how i should do this to make it simple and easy as possible?

[1LowToy]

I hope your just removing the bump stop for now. That shoud give you about 3". Doing a C notch when not needed is going to be like an old GF that won't go away

[1LowToy]

Next step will be shock extentions or new shorte shocks. Oh and the hole to pour money into will still be there

[mooseknuckles]

remove the bumpstop and you should be fine...try it out, and if it's hitting the frame all the time, c-notch it.

[Pop's C-10]

A grinder with a cut off wheel, a BFH, a cold chisle, a punch...and patients of coarse..lol

[Jamie McDavid]

Just take your time and go over your measurements and calculations good before you start cutting. You will be just fine! Lol I remember how nervous I was the day I notched mine.

[Stepper562]

Before you cut the frame brother make sure you jacked the the rear up from the right spot. You don't want anything pushing up or down on the frame. + Make sure you do everything else that has been mentioned above.

Cut the sucker, don't be shy. Good luck.
Posted via Mobile Device

[ProStreet83C10]

i went ahead and did the full notch, i plan on lowering the rear more in the near future and wanted to just get it done. I got full pics of the process and we used a plasma cutter and grinding wheel to clean up the slag from the plasma. it went well and looks good.

[ProStreet83C10]

ok so since i did the notch ive found that i think i have more frame flex than i did before. like i can see my bed moving a lot more than before and a buddy said when i lifted my truck one day on jack/stands that he saw my whole rear frame flex.

Would it hurt at all to either

A. - tighten down bolts to hold notch on tighter than 65 ft lbs
B. - weld the plate to the frame for a more solid "connection" between notch plate and frame - would assume thatd tighten it all up and end any flex?

[camshaftgsxr]

Originally Posted by ProStreet83C10

ok so since i did the notch ive found that i think i have more frame flex than i did before. like i can see my bed moving a lot more than before and a buddy said when i lifted my truck one day on jack/stands that he saw my whole rear frame flex.

Would it hurt at all to either

A. - tighten down bolts to hold notch on tighter than 65 ft lbs
B. - weld the plate to the frame for a more solid "connection" between notch plate and frame - would assume thatd tighten it all up and end any flex?

welding it in wont hurt anything, you should consider boxing it in with some plate steel if its that bad

[ProStreet83C10]

how would i go about boxing it in?

[camshaftgsxr]

Originally Posted by ProStreet83C10

how would i go about boxing it in?

well its the frame is c shaped, you just buy plate steel and weld it on to the open side of the frame, if you watch truck commercials they alway mention the "fully boxed frame" because its wayyy stronger than a c shaped frame

http://www.hot-rod-garage.com/articl...abrication.cfm

[ProStreet83C10]

ok so basically get __ gu steel and cut it to the SAME dimensions as my OEM frame then just weld it on all ends?

[primrrd]

Originally Posted by Pop's C-10

A grinder with a cut off wheel, a BFH, a cold chisle, a punch...and patients of coarse..lol

x2.. use a cut off wheel to cut an "x" through the head of the rivet and then the nice sharp chisel (you can sharpen it with the cut off wheel if you dont have a bench grinder) with the BFH to easily cut through the 4 little pieces left.
Or, even better, an air chisel if you can stand the noise!

I have a 5" flip with the stock bumps removed. The only time I ever hit frame was with a yard of mulch in the bed. (truck looked cool that extra inches down, though...)

[Stepper562]

+1 on boxing the frame especially if you decide to go with big power in the future. I`d box the sucker all the way from the cab to the rear well at least thats my plan. Boxing is easy if you know how to weld and have the right tools. Materials are relatively inexpensive, its just time consuming.

Nothing 2 buddies, 2 cases of beer and one weekend wont take care off haha.

Good luck brother but where the hell are the pics of the cnotch.

[Hevy]

Originally Posted by primrrd

x2.. use a cut off wheel to cut an "x" through the head of the rivet and then the nice sharp chisel (you can sharpen it with the cut off wheel if you dont have a bench grinder) with the BFH to easily cut through the 4 little pieces left.
Or, even better, an air chisel if you can stand the noise!

I have a 5" flip with the stock bumps removed. The only time I ever hit frame was with a yard of mulch in the bed. (truck looked cool that extra inches down, though...)

Or just cut the entire head of the rivet off with the cut off wheel.