"52 3600/3100"

[Mains52]

Ok some of you may know that I bought this 52 3600 about two months ago or so. I got it for $1000 clean title rust free body, all stock no engine, no rad support or inner fenders. Missing a few odds and ends. So after I discovered the Stock frame was bent, I decided to use the S-10 frame that I got for free. It took so long to decide what frame and power plant I wanted I haven't done much but I recently set my self on the s10 frame and picked up an LS 5.3.My plan is to just make a driver. Not a show truck. Im trying to decide on leaving the dings and painting it with a patina effect due to the previous owner priming some stuff it wouldn't flow the way it sits. So its getting paint for sure.
So It Begins

[Mains52]

some pics

[Mains52]

I just got the LS last night so its sitting on top of the s10 motor mounts with the ls mounts on it . I just did it for a picture.

[Mains52]

Truck Update:
Frame extensions tacked in.
4L80E purchased $250
ECM/Fuse Block / OBD II Purchased
Cab Mount Materials Acquired.
60 Gal Air Compressor *Birthday Present from the wife.

My welding skills are of beginner status but everyone starts somewhere right. I am trying to do this project without having to have my Old Man take over everything so its slowly but surely. I have already worked on the truck more in 2 1/2 months than I worked on 2 Camaros that I had for 4 years, so I would say its coming along nicely.

[joedoh]

great start!

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by joedoh

great start!

Thank You

[Mains52]

Well I got the cab onto the frame on wood blocks this weekend. Did a little mock up for placement. The ol' boy is starting to come along. When I bought the truck the guy told me it was virtually rust free and he was right. He never said it was bondo free. Needless to say I found a very crappy patch job on the front cowl which led to classic parts sending me a new cowl and rocker panel to match up to the cab corner I already had purchased. The truck was hit on the driver side so although its not rusty he's beat up a little.

[Mains52]

Project Update: Have been on a truck hiatus since my last post. Been trying to purchase things here and there but just getting back into it now. I got the cab mounts tacked into place, cut out some accident damage on the drivers side to get the cab into place, and starting to get the ls and 4l80e mocked up. Any suggestions/tips on drive train mocking would be appreciated. I need to purchase the inner to outer cowl panel for the drivers side and probably a lower door jam patch also. Other than that I got the motivation back so I am going to tear into this thing this summer. Pumped.

[Mains52]

Updated pics

[Mains52]

Ok got some motor mounts fabbed up. I still have to do some finish welding on them and some drilling but they should work out great. I got the motor and tranny sitting in the exact position I need to know so I just need to finish my mounts and weld them in place then its onto doing the body work on the driver side.

[Mains52]

This last week I finally got the motor mounts tacked in, the cab bolted down to the mounts and started to mock up the bed. I can't wait to finalize all of the welding and clean this chassis up. I feel like just mounting the bed has got me over some imaginary hump I thought I was at.

[chev3600]

Making good progress now, keep it up!

[joedoh]

looking great!

[Mains52]

Ok after a grueling picket fence project and vacation. I finally got back in the garage. My wife surprised me with a new tool box set up which that was nice. and I needed to get my garage cleaned up an organized. I started to tear down the LM7 a little bit and man this thing is dirty. 175k miles worth of gunk ha. But the cylinders feel smooth. There's no wear marks or lips or grooves. So I am just going to throw new rings, bearings, gaskets, and an oil pump in there and roll with it. Also decided to sell or trade my 4L80E for a 4l60E so I can match them up easier. Just have to finish mocking up the bed mounting and the big stuff should be done.

[OutlawDrifter]

Nice progress, I would urge you to keep the 80E over a 60E. It will take a lot more abuse. I'm running a 6.0L/4L80E setup in mine. When built with top shelf HD parts a 60E will live a long time, but it's still no match for a good ole heavy 80E!

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by OutlawDrifter

Nice progress, I would urge you to keep the 80E over a 60E. It will take a lot more abuse. I'm running a 6.0L/4L80E setup in mine. When built with top shelf HD parts a 60E will live a long time, but it's still no match for a good ole heavy 80E!

Honestly I'd like to have the 80 back there but you have to do some stuff to the wiring to match it to the 5.3 and I don't know if I want to mess with it. Trying to get it together here within the next year so I have to pick and choose my battles I guess.

[Mains52]

Well its been a while since I gave an update.
So I have decided to go back to an original frame and I have found one for a good price and it is a 3100 frame so my truck will now turn into a short bed. I am ok with that though. I am picking up the frame next weekend so Ill post some pics after I get it. I am more excited now than ever. Here's a plan update: 3100 Frame/ Mustang II still 50/50 on air or coil overs/ 3:23 posi rear end that I got for my birthday and a 4 link for the rear. 99 TO LIFE's Geronimo build has really got me pumped up to bust this out because they will be very similar. So sorry no pics for this update but at least its something and you guys know I didn't give up on the ol boy.

[Scott2]

Sounds great - keep us posted.

[dsraven]

when you get to assembly of the engine, replace the knock sensors or at least the wiring harness attached (that is how you get new grommets), then run a small u shaped bead of silicone around the uphill side, so it dams water away from the holes but allows water from the holes to escape downhill, and then remove the foam from the underside of the int manifold. water gets down in there, past the baked hard rubber grommets and then sits in the 2 wells that the knock sensors sit in. that eventually rusts out the sensors (as well as causes you issues before that when water shorts out the wiring, like every time you wash the engine) and then you gotta pull the whole thing apart afterwards for replacement.
pick yourself up an assembly manual, it will have drawings and dimensions on stuff you will likely need for your truck shortening project. as well, you probably have forgotten how some stuff is supposed to go back together again. that is why taking lots of pics of the dissassembly ritual is always a good thing, plus keeping hardware with parts removed and labelling the boxes. don't ask how I know......

[joedoh]

congrats on getting back to it!

Originally Posted by Mains52

Here's a plan update: 3100 Frame/ Mustang II still 50/50 on air or coil overs

I will tell you, setting up a mustang II on air isnt easy because the spindles and upper arms are very short. this leads to a ton of camber change through the lift dump range. make sure you set ride height with the lower arms level or close to it, sometimes that means a higher drive height than you want but it will keep your tires alive.

[Mains52]

Originally Posted by joedoh

congrats on getting back to it!




I will tell you, setting up a mustang II on air isnt easy because the spindles and upper arms are very short. this leads to a ton of camber change through the lift dump range. make sure you set ride height with the lower arms level or close to it, sometimes that means a higher drive height than you want but it will keep your tires alive.

Thanks, I will probably do coil overs just to keep it more do able for my skill level but I would love to have air on something some day. I still have first dibs on a 59 apache that I really want so I could always bag that.

[dsraven]

here are a couple of pics of my 5.3 avalanche. it started throwing codes and this was the cause. the fix is also included as a visual for what the recommended repair looks like.

[Hampshire]

I will tell you, setting up a mustang II on air isnt easy because the spindles and upper arms are very short.

Question for Joedoh (just curious): Many Mustang ll vendors will sell you a kit with longer a-arms, Increasing the track (from stock AD) anywhere from about 2" to a bit more. (centers the wheels in the fenders when looking head on at the front end) - would the longer A-arms make the set-up you cautioned about easier?

I think Scott's uses this wider track)

[dsraven]

when you get serious about the mustangII front end, check out heidt's "understanding independent front suspension" in their tech section.it outlines what the geometry should look like and why. understand also that the digital level used for installing the cross member should be set on the lower control arm pivot bolt, fore to aft, in order to get that pivot level to the ground. placing the level on the cross member leaves room for error because the top of the cross member may look to be in the same plane as the shaft but could easily be out several degrees. (use a length of rod the same size diameter as the pivot bolt but longer so that it can be left sticking out of the cross member far enough to get the level on it).
so,
check frame for square and straight. corner to corner etc
get the frame at the desired rake angle
level the frame side to side with digital level, placed on top of a long straight bar if you only have a short digital level
block the frame securely in that position
mock up the cross member with axle center line in the correct place for wheel fitment to the fender wheel opening
tack it in place

post lots of pics, we all like to see what you are doing.
mock up the front end and place a wheel on to see if you like it

[joedoh]

Originally Posted by Hampshire

Question for Joedoh (just curious): Many Mustang ll vendors will sell you a kit with longer a-arms, Increasing the track (from stock AD) anywhere from about 2" to a bit more. (centers the wheels in the fenders when looking head on at the front end) - would the longer A-arms make the set-up you cautioned about easier?

I think Scott's uses this wider track)

no. its the spindle height that is the problem, the box (upper to lower to spindle height) is very short and just laying it out on cardboard with pins will show you. thats why mustang II trucks with airbags always look squished in front, big wheels make it worse. some trucks like later IFS rangers have the same problem and one solution is to raise the upper arm mount.

its totally livable, though. camber alone doesnt kill tires, toe is the real enemy. I used to drive trucks in my youth with 5 degrees of camber and 2-3" inches of lift everyday. it just doesnt meet everyones expectation of a bagged ride, when they want to lay out on the running boards and then lift to a respectable height. in the trucks of my youth it was common to lift high to turn and lower back to ride height.

so I guess all I am saying is, use drop spindles and know what to expect about airbags. dont lift too high either, the way the arc of operation works the camber will go negative positive negative in a lift cycle.