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10-13-2014, 09:35 PM | #1 |
Senior Member
Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Toano, VA
Posts: 882
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Questions about Springs, Shocks & Panhard
I want to go ahead and drop the truck as low as possible with springs, blocks and spindles.
Front: How much spring and how much spindle? Rear: How much drop is possible? Spring & blocks. Shocks: What do you guys run? (Im on a budget) and do I need to relocate or should drop shocks compensate? Panhard bar: What to do? Relocate? Shorten? I heard someone say you can take the front shocks and relocate to rear and just buy lower front shocks - is this correct? Please post pics and threads! I learn from examples.
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"Sometimes I do serve as a good bad example. Glad to be of service." My Build Thread (1967 C10, lowered, EFI, daily truck): http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=830809 Last edited by KyleSeal; 10-13-2014 at 09:46 PM. |
10-14-2014, 12:50 AM | #2 |
Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Apache Junction, AZ
Posts: 18
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Re: Questions about Springs, Shocks & Panhard
I just went through and redid the front and rear suspension on my dad's truck. Here's what I got.
2 1/2 inch spindles and 2 inch springs in the front. 5 inch springs in the rear with 1 inch block. His truck has a c-notch in the rear too. Highly recommended if you go that low. Trac bar should be adjustable and relocated from rear end to frame to frame to passenger side underneath trailing arm. This first pic is factory and the second is with it relocated. This is my truck but it's the same on my dad's. CPP makes a kit so you get everything you need for one price. That's who I used and it was all bolt on quality parts. Hope this helps. |
10-14-2014, 01:43 AM | #3 | |
RAT1968 '68 Cab/'71 Parts
Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Coarsegold, CA
Posts: 2,375
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Re: Questions about Springs, Shocks & Panhard
Quote:
I don't know anything about "blocks". I'm not sure, but I think RAT is just short of getting as low as possible with springs and spindles before going to bags. It wasn't a bargain. Unless you call it a "bargain for the value". It's all ECE. Not the most expensive way to go (read: Porterbuilt, etc.). But, for normal people's budgets, it is in the ball park. And, in the case of the ECE kits, I think you get more than you pay for. All ECE: Running 2.5 drop spindles and 2 inch springs up front. New shocks. Every bushing was replaced front and rear. Adjustable panhard bar in the back. Trailing arms. Shocks and shock relocator kits. 6" spring drop back there. Running 20's on the front and rear and I have not c-notched or cut the bump stops. I'm about 1.25 or so inches away from the bump stops. I don't have a good current pic of the rear. But, here's the rear at the beginning of the build (before exhaust and too much other stuff to think about). And a pic of the stance.
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M17 Coarsegold, CA RAT's shiny now. But always a rat. Last edited by magwakeenercew2jh; 10-14-2014 at 01:53 AM. |
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10-14-2014, 06:52 AM | #4 |
Registered User
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Spring Hill, Florida
Posts: 465
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Re: Questions about Springs, Shocks & Panhard
I went with a 2.5/4 drop. I got everything from ECE.
They have a complete 4/6 kit with everything you need to do the job right except maybe new ball joints. Also they have service to back up the products. When I dropped my truck, my front end dropped lower than expected and they swapped out the front springs at no cost to me. They said about once a year they have a truck that the front end wants to sit lower then it should, I guess mine was that truck... nice to know if you have a problem you can call and get real help. |
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1970, drop, shock, spring |
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