Door Hinge Stop / Check Pads

[Rich72C10]

Hi guys -

So I bought theses Door Hinge Stops from classicparts.com without really thinking this through. I had just replaced my daughter's door check on her '07 Toyota and thought, "That was easy, I should do this to my C10 driver's door".

Can this be done without removing the hinge from the door and frame? Anyone even tried this kind of replacement without hinge removal?

I see that split/roll pin that keeps that door check arm into the hinge... perhaps I could get that out but I've read that thing is a challenge to get out and perhaps impossible with the hinge on the door?

I have a feeling these pads are going to go into my "maybe I'll install them" one day box...

Edit: To ease up reading a ton of posts after I completed this job, the below information is after a number of posts. So I thought to edit this information into my 1st post. Though fill free to read the whole thread/posts if you like ;-)

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I neglected to look at the faq, there is a post in there too:
67-72 Door: Friction Pads by Zonaman
There is another post that is very good that talks about rebuilding hinges:
Re: It’s Just A Pickup (Post 120) by Bruce88
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Very straight forward - the whole process is pretty easy - once you have it done and look back. Assuming your pin isn't seized or bent, it should take about an hour.

1. Pre-spray pin, I used Free-All. It actually sat for a few days soaking.
2. Use something like a TEKTON 3/16 Inch Roll Pin Punch #66066 and hammer it out from the top. I found trying from the bottom a real PITA.
3. Use something like a TEKTON 5/32 Inch Roll Pin Punch #66065 to get the above punch out.
4. Remove inner door skin, if you haven't a Window And Door Handle Removal Tool you better get one - I've had one since I was a kid.
5. Reach into the door to catch the wedge has you push it into the door cavity
6. Remove old pads.
7. Install new pads. The bottom will set into its notches, the top pad you need to hold it up into the notches or it can fall out into the door (which sucks if it does).
8. Push wedge from inside of the door cavity in-between the new pads and put pin back in.
9. Put inner door skin back on, job done!

I wasn't able to push the wedge very far by hand but I was able to get it far enough to use my 5/32 Inch Roll Pin Punch to mount it, then open the door, which pulled the wedge through the new pads. Using the 5/32 Inch Roll Pin Punch also lined everything up for the split pin. Then I hammered in my original split pin in with the 3/16 Inch Roll Pin Punch. I didn't use a heavy hammer, just a simple claw hammer.

Oh, you may want to use a lot of Blue Tape anywhere/everywhere you think your hammer could hit if you miss or slip off the punch...

I hope the above made sense, if not happy to follow on any questions.