Brake booster length

[69SCSS]

Was wondering what other options I have for this. I have a big block and the stock Power brake booster installed. The end of the master cylinder almost touches the alternator installed! I have seen this on a few trucks, but why did they make the booster bracket so long? I am going to barely be able to install the brake lines in the prop valve (which is under the master for the Inline Tube kit), but even at that, I will barely have room to adjust the alternator belt tension.

I've seen the booster bracket that mounts an 88-98 booster, but are there any other options out there? Seems like this doesn't need to be so far from the firewall, just adds leverage and stress to the firewall! Here's a pic of it installed right now.

[hugger6933]

Well maybe it is like that so you don't have to lean so far over the hood to work on it?Nah, I would look into the flush mount booster type thing to get that booster closer to the firewall. I think they look better although less original the flush mount just seems right to me and the truck that I am changing to a big block will probably be that way I will leave my factory big block like it should be.

[69SCSS]

yea this is all factory parts - booster, bracket, master, prop valve... everything but the lines. I looked at some pics of the same kind of setup and they are all like that. I just restored this booster so I don't really want to replace it just yet - I'll probably run this for a while since I at least know it'll work... but someday I'll probably swap. Just wanted to see if there are any options using the stock booster. Kinda just fishing, really, but it's useful info for someone before they go thru all the trouble of restoring their stock booster!

[Underwoj]

Bump

[Lou Boffa]

Captain Fab makes a bracket that tucks it nicely to the firewall. Do a search on here and you should find lots of info.

[69SCSS]

Originally Posted by Lou Boffa

Captain Fab makes a bracket that tucks it nicely to the firewall. Do a search on here and you should find lots of info.

That's the one I mentioned that uses the 88-98 booster. I might wind up going that route at some point as it seems like the shortest bracket and tightest to the firewall. Here's the thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ooster+bracket

Is this the only solution? I'd figure with all the decades GM has been making the boosters and all the different models there would be something else that would work. Maybe even something with a shorter rod and bracket that would bolt up, or at least close to bolt up.

[kxmotox247]

I just bought one of those CaptainFab brackets. It's a nice piece. I also bought a dual diaphram 8" street rod style booster. I can try to get a pic in the next day or two. Like you, I thought that it was pretty hideous looking to see the whole booster assembly sticking out to the point where it was longer than my big block. Not quite... but way too long. I found the booster for $46 with shipping.
Not sure what I'll do with the other booster setup

I think I read in another thread that possibly the factory brackets helped to position the booster away from the shift linkage.

[69SCSS]

Originally Posted by kxmotox247

I just bought one of those CaptainFab brackets. It's a nice piece. I also bought a dual diaphram 8" street rod style booster. I can try to get a pic in the next day or two. Like you, I thought that it was pretty hideous looking to see the whole booster assembly sticking out to the point where it was longer than my big block. Not quite... but way too long. I found the booster for $46 with shipping.
Not sure what I'll do with the other booster setup

I think I read in another thread that possibly the factory brackets helped to position the booster away from the shift linkage.

Yea post some pics if you can, I'm thinking, why can't I use my booster and fab the end like this: http://www.67-72chevytrucks.com/vboa...d.php?t=564518 or is the stock booster too large and will hit the shift linkage / valve cover?

[seafoam68]

I hate the look of the booster/master cylinder taking up that much space. I went with a CPP unit with a dual 8 inch booster and removed brackets all together. The four bolts on booster are almost the same spacing as the four holes in firewall so I just modified a little and put booster right on firewall. I plan to shorten link to pedal to make work. It looks really neat. Unfortunately I don't have finished yet so I cant say how it works. Maybe someone can say if there is a reason this won't work?

[kxmotox247]

This combo works out to about 15" long from the firewall. Sorry about the small photos.

[Underwoj]

looks great kxmotox247! I see that CPP logo - is that an 8 in dual diaphram mounted on CapFab's plate?

[kxmotox247]

Yep...exactly. 8" dual diaphram and a CPP master cylinder. The booster is not from CPP...just a generic street rod booster.

[Underwoj]

sweet - thanks! I think 15 inch will just clear my alt. Thanks for the pics and info!

[69SCSS]

How about this booster? This one looks to be a few inches shorter, and would definitely fit better,and give me clearence from the alternator I need. Anyone know which one it is?

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/a...1&d=1297437193

[luvbowties]

Originally Posted by 69SCSS

That's the one I mentioned that uses the 88-98 booster. I might wind up going that route at some point as it seems like the shortest bracket and tightest to the firewall. Here's the thread: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ooster+bracket

Is this the only solution? I'd figure with all the decades GM has been making the boosters and all the different models there would be something else that would work. Maybe even something with a shorter rod and bracket that would bolt up, or at least close to bolt up.

You said, "or at least close to bolt up".
Here's one that will bolt directly to firewall on 1966 style; the rod to pedal needs to be pieced using a coupling nut: $5 in extra parts. Caution: your year's linkage may interfere.
Sam
>> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search <<
>> part number is Autozone 54-71140; ~$75 << *Mfg. for '84 C10.*

[69SCSS]

Originally Posted by luvbowties

You said, "or at least close to bolt up".
Here's one that will bolt directly to firewall on 1966 style; the rod to pedal needs to be pieced using a coupling nut: $5 in extra parts. Caution: your year's linkage may interfere.
Sam
>> http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par...mString=search <<
>> part number is Autozone 54-71140; ~$75 << *Mfg. for '84 C10.*

Yea that looks like the one I saw in those pics. Sweet, there's an Autozone right down the street from my work that's been actually helpful. Thanks!