I want stock AC, what do I need to know?

[KyleSeal]

I have a local 67-72 parts guy who says he'll sell me all the parts for a stock AC system for $350, granted I need new gaskets and rubber lines, what do I need to know? Do I need a different water pump (I heard you need a small water pump)? I know Ill need to cut the fire wall and dash. Can I use modern fluids in the AC system or will I need to dig up some cans of old refrigerate?

And no, I do not want VintageAir or aftermarket, this is a much more affordable and cost effective way for me to cool off once the trucks done.

[Jocker64]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

I have a local 67-72 parts guy who says he'll sell me all the parts for a stock AC system for $350, granted I need new gaskets and rubber lines, what do I need to know? Do I need a different water pump (I heard you need a small water pump)? I know Ill need to cut the fire wall and dash. Can I use modern fluids in the AC system or will I need to dig up some cans of old refrigerate?

And no, I do not want VintageAir or aftermarket, this is a much more affordable and cost effective way for me to cool off once the trucks done.

I did exactly that, this is what I did:
I replaced the dash to an a/c dash (I wanted the original vents look)
You'll need the inside and outside housings (boxes)
since I put that stuff used, I bought a new heater core and a/c evaporator
If you want to use new fluids and less weight , I used a sanden compressor
I already had a short water pump but I'll work with a long water pump too, just change the compressor brackets
Need new expansion valve to use R-134
New accumulator and I you want more efficiency, install new condenser
I also change the radiator core, I just wanted the original hose holes
Also there's 2 vacuum activated doors, one in the passenger kick panel and another one inside the cowl
You'll need different a/c dash controls

That should give you more or less an idea!

Good luck

[KyleSeal]

Do you have a picture of the vacuum activated doors?

[Jocker64]

The one in the passenger kick panel looks exactly the same but instead of the handle to open and close it it has a vacuum activator

Here is the one in the cowl

[Jocker64]

Originally Posted by KyleSeal

Do you have a picture of the vacuum activated doors?

Here are some more pics

[KyleSeal]

Interesting. I have the cover to the air boxes cut out because of rust (the opening with "door" is still there.. does this effect performance?
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[KyleSeal]

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[Jocker64]

The inside door is for cab air recirculating

The outside door (cowl) is for inside or fresh air

[F.A.A.benny]

If you want to use 134a, its best to use a parallel flow condenser instead of the original tube and fine design that came from the factory. Also want to recalibrate the poa valve. Most guys don't like the poa delete(or update) kits which turn the system into a cycling system. Id get a new heater core but you can flush and pressure check the evaporator to see if it can be used. A new one will cost almost as much as the entire system you plan on buying. Personally, I would not buy an entire system, especially at that price. since quite a few things may need to be replaced. I would buy the ac and heater boxes. Some of the duct work if it was in good shape but take a good look at the distribution duct that bolts directly to the heater box. The blend door is often broken most times and that duct new is over $100. Take a look at the button switch on it as well because that little switch is $40 if you cant locate another used one. You don't need the metal duct as it exactly the same as the one in your heater only system. Check the control panel to make sure the levers aren't broken. You can get repair kits but it can help negotiate a lower price. I wouldn't purchase the drier, condenser, hoses or compressor. I would however take the aluminum hard lines as they fit waaaaay better that the aftermarket but make sure the fittings aren't seized up. New hoses are around $150 or so. You can get a new aluminum A6 replacement compressor to replace the old steel one so you can retain the original brackets and original style hoses. Sure a sanden is less expensive but kind of a wash after you factor in the brackets it needs as well as needing to alter your hose setup.

[F.A.A.benny]

A few pics of some work I've done recentlyand a pic of that duct that I mentioned which is over $100 new.

[KyleSeal]

what is the last photo of?

[F.A.A.benny]

Its the distribution duct that bolts directly to the heater box. The door is often broken and new , the duct runs over $100

[FirstOwner69]

Unless I missed it, no one above mentioned the differences in the holes in the firewall for A/C vs. heat only. They are significantly different. See post 2 here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=606420

[F.A.A.benny]

Originally Posted by FirstOwner69

Unless I missed it, no one above mentioned the differences in the holes in the firewall. They are significantly different. See post 2 here: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=606420

The op mentioned in the first post that he knows he'll have to cut the firewall

[FirstOwner69]

Originally Posted by F.A.A.benny

The op mentioned in the first post that he knows he'll have to cut the firewall

Oops. I saw he mentioned cutting the dash but missed the firewall comment.

[KyleSeal]

Also - Im not afraid to cut the firewall and weld, as my father is a good welder and I'm good at making cuts so that I feel comfortable with. Do they make templates?

Also, can I just run heat until I get the AC fully functional? As in, run the heat from the AC system while still obtaining parts.

The offer I have on the table from a local is the whole entire system, inner cab to the radiator - EVERYTHING - granted I'll need new rubber and need to make sure all the parts are functional. But I feel even if I buy them and decide not to go AC I could just sell them.

[kaycee]

yes you can run your heat only with a/c setup ,I been doing it for 4 yrs

[brad_man_72]

I can't imagine a factory ac setup being cheaper than any aftermarket setup even if you got it for free. Much less not designed for modern refrigerants. The size. Underhood appearance.

[F.A.A.benny]

Not sure about others but I'm pretty sure I could do factory ac cheaper than VA or CAA