Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) - The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network

john68c10 · 03-22-2021, 01:54 PM

Okay, 68 C10, 4 wheel drum brakes...

I'm trying to replace my worn out springs with some 1" drop springs.

I'm having the same trouble with both sides...

I can't get the ball joint studs to release from the spindle.

(note: I know I need to take the brake hose off and I have a coil spring compressor to use once it breaks loose)

I've got both ball joint castle nuts backed off, but still attached.

I've got the truck front up in the air on jackstands. I've disconnected the tie rod. I've tried this both with and without having a jack under the lower a-arm.

I've used a ball joint separator tool (shown). I've used a pickle fork and a BFH. I've used a small bottle jack between the a-arms.

Can't use heat...too much grease (fire)

What to do ? Am I missing something (not thinking of it) ?

dsy1 · 03-22-2021, 02:39 PM

if you have shop air you could try a pneumatic hammer attachment on an air chisel (like this one)....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV9E4Y...v_ov_lig_dp_it

john68c10 · 03-22-2021, 02:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dsy1

if you have shop air you could try a pneumatic hammer attachment on an air chisel (like this one)....

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV9E4Y...v_ov_lig_dp_it

On your advice, I just went and tried that...nothing budged at all.

john68c10 · 03-22-2021, 02:55 PM

On close inspection I can see that both ball joint studs move (spin) with the spindle...is it possible that someone in the distant past welded the ball joint studs to the spindles ? (but why would anyone do that ?)

I've already got in mind to try an air chisel with a pickle fork attachment, but beyond that...what to do ?

Keep in mind that I do plan to replace the ball joints. Should I attempt to saw the upper ball joint stud off...then get it on my workbench to investigate/remove/replace ?

RustyPile · 03-22-2021, 03:02 PM

For this technique you'll need two hammers -- a 24 - 32 oz. ball peen and a 3 - 5 lb maul.. Back the nut off until it's flush with the end of the ball joint stud. Using the maul as a back-up on the back side of the spindle, strike really HARD on the other side of the spindle in the area where the ball joint stud passes through.. A couple or 3 good whacks and they should separate...

**leddzepp** · 03-22-2021, 03:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyPile

For this technique you'll need two hammers -- a 24 - 32 oz. ball peen and a 3 - 5 lb maul.. Back the nut off until it's flush with the end of the ball joint stud. Using the maul as a back-up on the back side of the spindle, strike really HARD on the other side of the spindle in the area where the ball joint stud passes through.. A couple or 3 good whacks and they should separate...

^^this^^

A few hard whacks with a 3 lb sledgehammer should pop it free. This method has ALWAYS worked for me, picklefork only about 1/2 the time.

john68c10 · 03-22-2021, 03:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyPile

For this technique you'll need two hammers -- a 24 - 32 oz. ball peen and a 3 - 5 lb maul.. Back the nut off until it's flush with the end of the ball joint stud. Using the maul as a back-up on the back side of the spindle, strike really HARD on the other side of the spindle in the area where the ball joint stud passes through.. A couple or 3 good whacks and they should separate...

Just tried this, and was very hopeful...but alas...nothing...not even a little after about 50 hard strikes on both sides.

I'll return to this after the inflammation in my shoulders goes down for a couple of days from hammering.

**pjmoreland** · 03-22-2021, 04:27 PM

Maybe a combination of the two techniques would work. Pound the pickle fork in there and leave it in place while you whack on the spindle as described by RustyPile. Also, hopefully your pickle fork is wide enough to fit around the ball joint stud. The first time I replaced a set of ball joints I bought a pickle fork that was slightly too narrow, so the tips bottomed out on the ball joint stud. I had to buy a larger pickle fork. The opening on my bigger pickle fork is 1".

68 P.O.S. · 03-22-2021, 04:39 PM

Are you using your spring compressor already? You don't want to use it yet because you want the pressure from the springs to force them apart as well.

john68c10 · 03-22-2021, 04:40 PM

Okay, I got one to break free...here's how I did it.

I placed the jack under the lower a-arm and lifted until the truck body and frame began to move...so that the spring was compressed...

Then, I pounded in the pickle fork fully and left it there.

I then let the jack down slowly...and POP !

Thank You so much guys...I wouldn't have gotten this far without you. I'm quitting for the day on that victory note before I get into more trouble...

**kwmech** · 03-22-2021, 04:42 PM

Definitely no jack touching the assy. Just have it there to 'catch' things. Are you replacing the ball joints or using them over?

Big Kev-O · 03-22-2021, 04:47 PM

I didn't have any luck with pickle forks. As stated above support the frame or cross member with the jack, leave the nut on a few threads, let the arm hang and whack the snot out of the area surrounding the stud with a drilling sledge. It helps to add a little heat with a torch. Just a little heat not glowing red heat. Try not to heat the stud, just the area surrounding it. I bought a estwing 3lb drilling sledge just for this purpose.

john68c10 · 03-22-2021, 04:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kwmech

Definitely no jack touching the assy. Just have it there to 'catch' things. Are you replacing the ball joints or using them over?

Replacing

**kwmech** · 03-22-2021, 05:29 PM

Try to get a good hit on the top then

rockyrivermark · 03-22-2021, 08:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RustyPile

For this technique you'll need two hammers -- a 24 - 32 oz. ball peen and a 3 - 5 lb maul.. Back the nut off until it's flush with the end of the ball joint stud. Using the maul as a back-up on the back side of the spindle, strike really HARD on the other side of the spindle in the area where the ball joint stud passes through.. A couple or 3 good whacks and they should separate...

Do what he said. It will pop right off no problem.
No heat no pickle fork. Works like a charm

old51sedan · 03-23-2021, 09:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by john68c10

On your advice, I just went and tried that...nothing budged at all.

Had the same problem with mine. Not wanting to add any heat I had a friend with a long bar applying pressure while I used the pickle fork and a 3.5 hammer. I thought the dang thing was welded on, but it finally popped loose.

**Ironangel** · 03-23-2021, 04:07 PM

Use a hardened 3/4" bolt with a nut, flat washer, and a 4" long piece of 1" dia. pipe. Assemble the nut and washer on the bolt, washer against the 4" long piece of pipe to make a small screw spreader to fit between the ball joint studs (with nuts still on the studs) and hold the bolt head in vice grips (your handle) and spread the nut against the pipe. Place the spreader between the ball joint castle nuts and spread. Keep spreading until you've popped the upper and lower ball joints loose...

jbarron · 03-23-2021, 06:27 PM

I made a tool similar to Ironangel.
Works great.
No need to beat on things or add heat.

70StepsideC10 · 03-25-2021, 01:13 PM

I did something similar to Ironangel, but used a deep impact socket that was larger than the castle nut instead of the pipe. Socket sits against the spindle over the castle nut, head of bolt against ball joint stud on the other side (with that castle nut backed off until flush with the end of the stud), hold the bolt head with a wrench and turn the nut on the tool with another wrench until it pops. Flip the tool around and do the other stud the same way. Worked really well and didn't mark up my nicely painted spindles from beating on them with a hammer.

**Accelo** · 03-26-2021, 04:38 AM

I have the luxury of having a portable hydraulic cylinder that fits between the ball joints.
I use the same theory as Ironangel but substitute the 10T hydraulic ram in place of the bolt. The hydraulics pops one joint and then the nut hits the A arm. You keep pumping till then it pops the other joint. It has never failed, I can do them both sides in less than five min. if the bolts are loosened. Getting the cotter pins out typically takes longer, much longer.
Rick

03-22-2021, 01:54 PM	#1
john68c10 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Cookeville, TN Posts: 53	Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) Okay, 68 C10, 4 wheel drum brakes... I'm trying to replace my worn out springs with some 1" drop springs. I'm having the same trouble with both sides... I can't get the ball joint studs to release from the spindle. (note: I know I need to take the brake hose off and I have a coil spring compressor to use once it breaks loose) I've got both ball joint castle nuts backed off, but still attached. I've got the truck front up in the air on jackstands. I've disconnected the tie rod. I've tried this both with and without having a jack under the lower a-arm. I've used a ball joint separator tool (shown). I've used a pickle fork and a BFH. I've used a small bottle jack between the a-arms. Can't use heat...too much grease (fire) What to do ? Am I missing something (not thinking of it) ?

03-22-2021, 02:39 PM	#2
dsy1 Registered User Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: San Diego, CA Posts: 128	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) if you have shop air you could try a pneumatic hammer attachment on an air chisel (like this one).... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007QV9E4Y...v_ov_lig_dp_it

03-22-2021, 02:55 PM	#4
john68c10 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Cookeville, TN Posts: 53	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) On close inspection I can see that both ball joint studs move (spin) with the spindle...is it possible that someone in the distant past welded the ball joint studs to the spindles ? (but why would anyone do that ?) I've already got in mind to try an air chisel with a pickle fork attachment, but beyond that...what to do ? Keep in mind that I do plan to replace the ball joints. Should I attempt to saw the upper ball joint stud off...then get it on my workbench to investigate/remove/replace ?

03-22-2021, 03:02 PM	#5
RustyPile Registered User Join Date: Dec 2017 Location: Elkhart, Texas Posts: 1,804	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) For this technique you'll need two hammers -- a 24 - 32 oz. ball peen and a 3 - 5 lb maul.. Back the nut off until it's flush with the end of the ball joint stud. Using the maul as a back-up on the back side of the spindle, strike really HARD on the other side of the spindle in the area where the ball joint stud passes through.. A couple or 3 good whacks and they should separate...

03-22-2021, 04:27 PM	#8
pjmoreland Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2005 Location: CA Posts: 5,755	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) Maybe a combination of the two techniques would work. Pound the pickle fork in there and leave it in place while you whack on the spindle as described by RustyPile. Also, hopefully your pickle fork is wide enough to fit around the ball joint stud. The first time I replaced a set of ball joints I bought a pickle fork that was slightly too narrow, so the tips bottomed out on the ball joint stud. I had to buy a larger pickle fork. The opening on my bigger pickle fork is 1".

03-22-2021, 04:39 PM	#9
68 P.O.S. Registered User Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Puyallup, WA Posts: 1,662	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) Are you using your spring compressor already? You don't want to use it yet because you want the pressure from the springs to force them apart as well. __________________ 72 C10 lwb fleetside -stock 350/350 combo

03-22-2021, 04:40 PM	#10
john68c10 Registered User Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Cookeville, TN Posts: 53	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) Okay, I got one to break free...here's how I did it. I placed the jack under the lower a-arm and lifted until the truck body and frame began to move...so that the spring was compressed... Then, I pounded in the pickle fork fully and left it there. I then let the jack down slowly...and POP ! Thank You so much guys...I wouldn't have gotten this far without you. I'm quitting for the day on that victory note before I get into more trouble...

03-22-2021, 04:42 PM	#11
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,595	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) Definitely no jack touching the assy. Just have it there to 'catch' things. Are you replacing the ball joints or using them over?

03-22-2021, 04:47 PM	#12
Big Kev-O Registered User Join Date: Mar 2014 Location: Simi, CA Posts: 495	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) I didn't have any luck with pickle forks. As stated above support the frame or cross member with the jack, leave the nut on a few threads, let the arm hang and whack the snot out of the area surrounding the stud with a drilling sledge. It helps to add a little heat with a torch. Just a little heat not glowing red heat. Try not to heat the stud, just the area surrounding it. I bought a estwing 3lb drilling sledge just for this purpose. __________________ Made in America by Americans

03-22-2021, 05:29 PM	#14
kwmech Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2003 Location: Colfax-California Posts: 8,595	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) Try to get a good hit on the top then

03-23-2021, 04:07 PM	#17
Ironangel Senior Member Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Falls City, Nebraska "100 Miles From Nowhere" Posts: 2,219	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) Use a hardened 3/4" bolt with a nut, flat washer, and a 4" long piece of 1" dia. pipe. Assemble the nut and washer on the bolt, washer against the 4" long piece of pipe to make a small screw spreader to fit between the ball joint studs (with nuts still on the studs) and hold the bolt head in vice grips (your handle) and spread the nut against the pipe. Place the spreader between the ball joint castle nuts and spread. Keep spreading until you've popped the upper and lower ball joints loose... __________________ Michael of the clan Hill, "Two Seventy Two's" 71 1-ton Dually 350 4-Speed 71 C/50 Grain Truck, 350 Split-Axle 4-Speed 02 3/4 ton Express 14 Indian Chief Vintage 1952 Ford 8N, "Only Ford Allowed On The Property" "Be American, Buy American"

03-23-2021, 06:27 PM	#18
jbarron Registered User Join Date: Apr 2006 Location: Spring, Texas Posts: 167	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) I made a tool similar to Ironangel. Works great. No need to beat on things or add heat. __________________ '72 3/4 Cheyenne Super 402/TH400 Gear Vendors '72 3/4 Cheyenne Super 350/200R4 '50 1/2 Chevy 3 Window

03-25-2021, 01:13 PM	#19
70StepsideC10 Registered User Join Date: Jul 2016 Location: Toronto, Ontario Posts: 39	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) I did something similar to Ironangel, but used a deep impact socket that was larger than the castle nut instead of the pipe. Socket sits against the spindle over the castle nut, head of bolt against ball joint stud on the other side (with that castle nut backed off until flush with the end of the stud), hold the bolt head with a wrench and turn the nut on the tool with another wrench until it pops. Flip the tool around and do the other stud the same way. Worked really well and didn't mark up my nicely painted spindles from beating on them with a hammer.

03-26-2021, 04:38 AM	#20
Accelo Senior Member Join Date: Mar 2015 Location: washington Posts: 2,280	Re: Getting Ball Joints to Release (what am I missing ?) I have the luxury of having a portable hydraulic cylinder that fits between the ball joints. I use the same theory as Ironangel but substitute the 10T hydraulic ram in place of the bolt. The hydraulics pops one joint and then the nut hits the A arm. You keep pumping till then it pops the other joint. It has never failed, I can do them both sides in less than five min. if the bolts are loosened. Getting the cotter pins out typically takes longer, much longer. Rick



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