67 Camaro Build

[7dee2]

Thanks guys, it's the shiz compared to what we had!

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work!

[7dee2]

Thanks Ryan!



Parts, parts and more parts, gotta whole lotta Camaro going on!

[7dee2]

Here’s a small victory, our car didn’t have any keys when we bought it so how to get the ignition switch out without mucking it all up? Found the door and trunk cylinders while going through all the parts boxes. Took those to the local locksmith and had keys cut from the codes on the cylinders. At first it looked like someone might have broken the key off in the cylinder? It was just really full of debris and 30 minutes later it was out, yes!

[gringoloco]

That’s a win!

[Dieselwrencher]

Very nice. That definitely is a plus!

[Lokin4AReason]

like that jig build ....

any update(s) ... ?

[rgunlock]

I was thinking just the other day that I hadn't seen any updates on your builds for quite some time. Hope you are doing ok and life just has you busy.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by Lokin4AReason

like that jig build ....

any update(s) ... ?

Thanks Lokin4AReason, I'm pretty happy with the jig and really do need to update this build thread.

Originally Posted by rgunlock

I was thinking just the other day that I hadn't seen any updates on your builds for quite some time. Hope you are doing ok and life just has you busy.

Hey Rick, I’m guessing folks thought we gave up on this project, oh no just really, really sidetracked. Wow, it's been over a year?



After the jig was finished I started into the right rocker area. This does appear to be where the previous shop or previous owner left off. Looks like while they were welding in the right floor section, they got some blow through at the inner rocker. And that led them to open up the rocker and weld in a patch to finish the floor install.

[7dee2]

After a closer inspection and some detailed measurements, decided to cut out some more of the inner rocker/lower a-pillar support, etc. I’m not very happy with this area at this point, the more I dig the more soft rusted metal I’m finding.

Got in some new parts and that’s where things stalled kind of?

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice to see you back around Brett. That stinks to see the rust but it looks like you're on your way to making it right again.

[7dee2]

Thank's Ryan, Yep that was my plan but then…..


So last February, oops make that 2 Februarys ago I was scratching my head telling myself, self you should get a reproduction body for this project!

After researching both Dynacorn & Real Deal Steel we placed an order with Joe Whitaker at Real Deal Steel https://realdealsteel.com. Our order was for a 67 Camaro coupe body with factory heater and the mini tub option.

[mongocanfly]

New body? Nice!!!...

[gringoloco]

Ooooohhh, this just got very interesting. When do you take delivery?

[Dieselwrencher]

Cheater!!! Haha Don't toss the old one away.

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

New body? Nice!!!...

Thanks, I’m stoked!

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Ooooohhh, this just got very interesting. When do you take delivery?

We’ve had the shell since last October, it’s got a pretty crazy delivery story I’ll share coming up.

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Cheater!!! Haha Don't toss the old one away.

Yeah buddy!


Here’s some pics of our car at their facility.

[mongocanfly]

Wow...extremely nice...

[rgunlock]

Very nice Brett! That's going to make this an easy build. Looking forward to assembly updates.

[gringoloco]

Oh no, there’s always drama. I’m watching this intently as I’ve always been curious as to how much time is actually saved going this route. The pricing certainly makes it tempting

[Overdriven]

When I saw the “old” body on the dolly I got flashbacks to my old 67 Camaro. I made a similar dolly using “pins” in the same holes the factory used on the assembly line to transport the bodies. Never had an issue with the body moving on the dolly but the spring shackle attachment point is a good idea. I cringed when I saw the rocker area pics, and again when it was all opened up. More flashbacks of not so fond memories involving patching, reinforcing, etc.

As much as I love metal work, rust repair isn’t as fun and a new body is so nice too work with. Plus you don’t have an excuse not to get back on it now!

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

Wow...extremely nice...

Thanks Greg, these guys do really good work!

Originally Posted by rgunlock

Very nice Brett! That's going to make this an easy build. Looking forward to assembly updates.

Thanks Rick, we’re definitely spoiling ourselves on this one.

Originally Posted by gringoloco

Oh no, there’s always drama. I’m watching this intently as I’ve always been curious as to how much time is actually saved going this route. The pricing certainly makes it tempting

You know I really don’t see how it couldn’t be a time saver and in our case with all of our life distractions this last year (ongoing)!

Originally Posted by Overdriven

When I saw the “old” body on the dolly I got flashbacks to my old 67 Camaro. I made a similar dolly using “pins” in the same holes the factory used on the assembly line to transport the bodies. Never had an issue with the body moving on the dolly but the spring shackle attachment point is a good idea. I cringed when I saw the rocker area pics, and again when it was all opened up. More flashbacks of not so fond memories involving patching, reinforcing, etc.

As much as I love metal work, rust repair isn’t as fun and a new body is so nice too work with. Plus you don’t have an excuse not to get back on it now!

No excuses!


While we were waiting for the new Camaro body to be built (6+ long months) started thinking do we need a second cart/jig or maybe? A rotisserie, that’s a tool I’ve always wanted and could be useful for a few things including transporting the new or old Camaro body. Oh yes, time for a Whirly Jig with their transporter kit.

[mongocanfly]

oh yeah...youll wonder how you ever got by without a rotisserie...sure makes life easy

[Lokin4AReason]

Any dimensions on the jig ? I have two novas im considering doing some work on besides the truck i have .

[7dee2]

Originally Posted by mongocanfly

oh yeah...youll wonder how you ever got by without a rotisserie...sure makes life easy

Ha, easy is good, I like easy! Feel the same way about our compressor and 4 post lift, used to build stuff without them but as time goes by, I just can’t imagine not having these tools. I did think about just building the rotisserie but at this time it was more about time savings. This project has been on the back burner for a long time.

Originally Posted by Lokin4AReason

Any dimensions on the jig ? I have two novas im considering doing some work on besides the truck i have .

Started with research on the mounting points for our car, once the measurements were found used that to draw a rough plan and create a materials list. Mainly just 2x3 & 2x2 .120 wall tube with bar stock for the riser tops and we utilized used factory shackles and old bushings to attach the rear. Here’s what we used to start building ours.

Under Body Specs 67 thru 69 Camaro and Firebird Unibody Dimensions.
These measurements are modified from Fisher Body Specs, to correct printed errors in the Fisher Body manual. All measurements are center to center unless otherwise noted. The car must be set up on a level surface, for accurate measurements. A Tram Gauge is recommended for accurate results. Factory Tolerance plus or minus 1/8 inch. Note: Your car may measure out differently. This is due to a difference in measuring methods used. Most important is that the car is square and level to its self.

Horizontal Dimensions:
A = 38 1/4"
B = 35 1/4"
C = 54 3/16"
D = 44 9/16"
E = 33 3/4"
F = 76"
G = 65 1/4"
H = 33 1/2"
I = 55 3/16"
J = 66 11/16"
K = 43 7/8"
L = 44 7/8"

Vertical Dimensions:
a = 11 15/16"
b = 12 9/16"
c = 13 13/16"
d = 9 1/8"
e = 6 15/16"
f = 18 7/16"
g = 15 11/16"

Measurement Notes:
1. Center of Master Gauge hole outboard of firewall body mount
2. Center rear sub-frame to body mount hole
3. Center at rear edge of 1" gauge hole
4. Center of Master Gauge hole in bottom of frame rail
5. Inboard edge of frame rail, at centerline of rear shackle bolt hole (Figure 2)
6. Centerline of lower outboard bumper bolt holes
A. Location f: Lower surface of rail at axle housing centerline
B. Location g: Inboard edge of frame rail, at centerline of rear shackle bolt hole (Figure 2)

Makes a great steel cart also!

[7dee2]

Time to build 1st gen mounts, Whirly Jig did supply some plans for a heavy-duty front mount (you’re on your own for the back). They recommend that you create 4 mounting points for the front and 4 for the rear saying that’ll allow the front to rear tie pipes to be removed for a clear work floor area when stationary. Thinking since transporting the new car is probably going to be one of its first jobs that the 4-mount bracketry is probably a good idea to distribute the weight a little also.