Valve covers & refreshing engine area;searching for pics and suggestions

[RuralRoute C-30]

Since I bought this truck in February, when it comes to the engine compartment, the only attention to this area was new belts, plug wires, plugs, air filter immediately and some basic necessities of general engine maintenance since then. The rear and front main seal was also replaced as soon as it got home. (was leaking like the Exxon Valdez!) I feel lucky as it has been a strong motor, even with the unknown history, so this new goal involves just some clean-up and 'minor' upgrades with necessary repairs where needed at this time.

What started this is that recently it appears to have a minor valve cover leak. So I've decided now is a good time for some overdue engine clean-up during the process of replacing the valve cover gaskets soon. (don't we all know to tell the wife that when replacing valve cover gaskets it is required to replace the valve covers at the same time or the warranty is void?) I tried that once...she smiled quietly.

Odd enough, for me, I don't want to go the chrome route. Instead I want something that is easier maintained than chrome, reflects a working truck, but with improvements that look good too.

Anyway, here is what I've got at this time and it isn't pretty!



Not even sure of the age of the motor as it was explained to me it did get a transplant at one time. I do know it is pre-85 learning that when I changed the belts. Yet it runs without complaint and is due some attention to details.

Here is one option I'm thinking about for the valve covers and such:


The other would be the black crinkle version:


A brake controller represents the white & black wire along the firewall. There is definitely some time needed to clean this "room" up. I know it has been awhile and long before I got it. Not really sure where to begin but what is a given is the black firewall where the previous owner apparently thought undercoating was soundproofing?

Reading here and in the 'big book' service manual I understand the pcv and breather is required. Do you just use the breather as the fill-hole for oil? Do pcv valves come in various sizes to accommodate the size of hole the valve cover comes with?

I admit I've never 'played' dress-up with a 350 before. So thought it best I'd start here with the questions like wondering why short vs tall, do you drill the holes if there are none or are needed, are there any valve covers to not buy and do the two suggestions here look like they'll work?

Having seen many a nice engine on this forum it has helped to get an idea of some basic improvements that can be done. So the goal now is to take some time, and obviously some money, to at least get the C-30 refreshed under the hood over the course of this winter.

Suggestions are more than welcome. One thing for certain, it won't be happening overnight since in this case "money not being an object" does not apply here. There is a budget and it is hyphenated with "wap" in every part number. "Wife approval pending".

The good news is she understands leaks need to get fixed...'darn honey, those old valve cover was seriously warped'.

Anyway, thanks for any and all suggestions.

Mark

[Hubscrub]

yes the either hole can be used to pour oil in just use a small funnel, and the grommet OD is the same for both covers. The ID of the hole in the grommet makes the difference, size one is smaller for the pvc, and the other is larger for the push in breather. Yes both of them you have pictured will work and personally i like either one just depends on what the rest of the motor will look like as the one that will look the best

[bikes&bowties]

[RuralRoute C-30]

Thanks, I am leaning towards the grey since the firewall is going to stay black. Figure for appearance sake the grey will at least add some contrast and if there is going to be a 'theme' to replace this current mess it will be consist of black, grey and a mix of some shiny things. Should keep it somewhat clean even when it's dusty.

Gotta admit I haven't looked at so many versions of valve covers and breathers before. There is a lot out there to choose from!

Mark

[donut]

I chose to do mine with paint and elbow grease.

[nbpro]

paint and elbow grease. and shiny stuff

[dmwphoto]

no elbow grease for me, just shiney stuff...

[dammitmitchell]

[dammitmitchell]

[benoit454]

I can't see paying the huge price tag on painted valve covers, just not worth it to me, if I want em painted I'd clean them and paint them myself, and if I wanted them to have a bowtie or chevrolet on them buy a sticker, be tons cheaper.

I like chrome myself and here we don't have emissions and I like to remove all the smog crap, unused things, extra lines and wires, try to hide the wires and such, clean and paint everything.

[RuralRoute C-30]

Originally Posted by donut

I chose to do mine with paint and elbow grease.

Really like your clean oem look, donut. A great example of the direction I want to go except with a few added features. Figure the grey kit will be the base to work off of. But yes, a lot of old fashioned elbow grease and simple clean-up is before, during and after.

Originally Posted by dmwphoto

no elbow grease for me, just shiney stuff...

Suggestion on a good source for the braided covers? I have always liked the look of those as used here.

Appreciate all pics and comments as it is in the middle of the one extreme to the other we see so often that is where I want to try to get with this 'dress-up'. Granted what I currently have is an extreme in the other direction. One I now want to get cleaned up!

Yet I have always admired seeing clean and organized engine compartments that range from the genius of the basic and well done to the creativity often found in the extreme of a garage queen ready for the prom!

Figure anything I do at this time with what I have will be an improvement. Comments and pics help.

Nice examples all around!
Mark

[baclay9]

Originally Posted by bikes&bowties

How do these hold up? I am thinking of running them on mine as well. Do they clean up easy or do they change colors or stain? Is the wrinkle paint holding up well? Any peeling?

[dammitmitchell]

in all honsty dude save up some cash! put an aluminum intake on that bad boy with a simple set of VC's. Pressure wash the hell outta that enging bay first and go for it!

[RuralRoute C-30]

Originally Posted by dammitmitchell

in all honsty dude save up some cash! put an aluminum intake on that bad boy with a simple set of VC's. Pressure wash the hell outta that enging bay first and go for it!

Why do I get the sense that from cleaning up the engine bay with elbow grease, paint and dress-up kit this can quickly lead down the path to thinking about aluminum intake choices which can then lead to... carb options to exhaust options and then to...???

Ok, I'll bite; what would be the advantage to change over to an aluminum intake, anybody? Can I retain the same carb? More power? Costs or suggestions for one that would be an improvement in performance specific to a working 1-ton? I know how to r&r it, but that is about it.

It ain't a race truck though and seriously I don't know a thing about what one type of intake would do compared to another. Yet I am willing to learn or I wouldn't be asking though. (I see more reading and research ahead)

Actually it probably is a good idea to look a little deeper into the details if I am going to be taking things apart anyway to clean it up if it can improve what I have.

By the way, the budget for this project is around $500 to at least fix that valve cover leak soon and "clean it up" and my labor is free. Wonder how much an intake is now...

Thanks for making me think!
Mark

[mooseknuckles]

my 305er

[BIG KRIS]

My 355

[BIG KRIS]

My dads new 468

[donut]

With mine it was form vs. function. The OEM style air cleaner was only because I had my open element clog with snow and slush. I wouldn't have bothered with the alum intake if I hadn't needed it for the Vortec head swap.

I did think about the grey dress-up package though...

[dammitmitchell]

if you do an aluminum intake get one that matches the numbers for your carb and the power range of your stock cam. the intake increases airflow thus increasing gas mileage.
a 600 cfm carb on a stock internal/ cam motor with an alum intake will imporve gas mileage and available power. and look good.

my truck the (aluminum heads and blue VC) is nto a race truck. it destroys mud and tows like a mo fo...

500 bucks would more then cover a performer rpm, and gaskets and washing and paint.
and a inexpensive set of vc's.
this is where ebay is your friend.

if you can find a used holley they usually sell fairly inexpensive. and that combined with intake can be found for a descent deal used.

[RuralRoute C-30]

More power and better fuel mileage; The cam is whatever it is. I'm assuming stock. Yet on simple power and mileage improvements if an intake and carb will do it, I'm sold. So I have started researching and reading...

You're right about ebay in this case: 2 carbs, same product, both new and a $100 difference, so far.
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/1406/10002/-1
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Edelb...item1e5f55000b

Was researching and this pairing of carb and intake seems to keep coming up as a decent balance using a stock cam in a budget. Any opinions? (wouldn't be buying the package; delete the cam)
http://www.jegs.com/i/Edelbrock/350/...12#moreDetails

I'm only going by what I read on the forum that this is an improvement. Took a closer look at what I've got and some pics; not sure what 'brand' it is but see quadrajet in the grime. Yet on looking closer to what I have it is definitely time to take some time under this hood.

Truck's been running good since I got it but after inspection of this area I am beginning to wonder how.


No doubt it can run better.

Still learning what I do not know.

Thanks for the input and the tolerance for the questions,
Mark

[dammitmitchell]

with a stock bottom end you only need a 600- 630 cfm vaccum secondary carb.so you are pretty right on on that.
im personally a holley guy.
if youa re going to do something like that power pak form edlebrock your going to pay much more then 550. you have no idea the condition of your cam bearings. and if you are going to do a new cam you SHOULD.. (not everyone listends hehe) replace the cam bearings.
which means more engine tear down. and at least a timing cover seal and oil pan gasket.

now for the operating band of your ultimatley dictates what intale you use. a performer rpm (not the airgap) will suffice and be good for a future upgrade. a torkerII also will work and be good for a future upgrades.


now are you absolutley sure this a first gen 350?. pull the numbers for your block they are on the rear drivers side flange below the head and above your bellhousing.
alot of these trucks have had aftermarket motors in them. it'as always good to double check.

dont take any of this advise as me second guessing you ever, ok? im covering all my bases from previous mistakes i have made =-)

and good luck brother!

[old Rusty C10]

heres two of mine and one of a buddys 72 or so

[87chevy.com]

here was my old setup:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...8&postcount=18

[RuralRoute C-30]

Originally Posted by dammitmitchell

with a stock bottom end you only need a 600- 630 cfm vaccum secondary carb.so you are pretty right on on that.
im personally a holley guy.

now for the operating band of your ultimatley dictates what intale you use. a performer rpm (not the airgap) will suffice and be good for a future upgrade. a torkerII also will work and be good for a future upgrades.

now are you absolutley sure this a first gen 350?. pull the numbers for your block they are on the rear drivers side flange below the head and above your bellhousing.
alot of these trucks have had aftermarket motors in them. it'as always good to double check.

dont take any of this advise as me second guessing you ever, ok? im covering all my bases from previous mistakes i have made =-)

and good luck brother!

Finally found the block numbers, #397010, and from earlier replacing front & rear seals last spring it is a 4-bolt. Definitely not an original motor to this 85...but I knew that anyway.

Pulled the trigger today and ordered the primary parts for the mechanical part of this 'clean-up'. Edelbrook 1406 carb, 2101 intake and the grey GM dress kit. Using Advanced Auto's current on-line promotion and a 20% discount it was less painful.

Truck has to work this week-end and next running for wood (again) but at least these parts are on the way to move this part of the project forward.

Did get the electrical cleaned up and some general organization of what has to stay under the hood did help. Makes it easier to see what is there with the garbage taken out.

A few odds and ends left to gather before taking the old off and the new on.

Already thinking of questions on any tricks of the trade with taking that intake off...suggestions are welcome. After draining the coolant won't there still be some that will spill into the motor when taking that intake off? Flush any coolant that gets in the motor with oil to the pan with the drain plug out? The carb doesn't intimidate me as much as that intake does...but I say that now not later!

Oh well, its a work that always seems to be in a state of progress with learning lessons all the time. Gotta love old trucks!

Mark

[74chevy3/4]

Please keep us updated. Would love to see pics as you progress through the job. Would also like to know if you see positive impact on your mpg. Thanks