Best Option For Rear Disc Brakes on Eaton

[Jahloha]

Hey Guys:

I know Blackbird used to do a rear disc brake conversion, but looks like they are out of business.

l am trying to plan out the steps for my project to become a rolling chasis and am beginning to purchase parts. I would prefer to keep my Eaton, but am not versed enough to know all my options.

Please help me understand my options for rear disc brakes.

Mahalo!

[davepl]

Are you married to the idea of rear discs? Other than mountain towing, I don't see much advantage to them. I have old cars with and without them, and frankly as long as the front discs are decent then I don't care.

In fact the one I did convert to 4-wheel has been nothing but headaches. So now I'm kinda vocal about not doing them for looks or attitude unless you need them.

If you are dead set on them, I found this. I don't know what model of axle you have (mine's a Dana, I've never had an Eaton), but it's a start:

Eaton HO52/72 Disc Brake Conversion Bracket - $50
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/EHO5272.html

[franken]

I think drums are hard to find for the Eatons these days, hence the disk conversions. Not to mention the weight. I've heard 14 bolt drum brakes can be made to fit. The stock rear drum brake setups on 3/4-1 tons are huge and weigh a lot.

The 3/4 ton GM front caliper and disk option is nice and simple, but the parking brake goes away. Using the Eldo calipers is expensive and unreliable (or so Ive read).

If you don't need a parking brake the front caliper/disk setup and the aftermarket bracket is a nice setup.

[72MARIO]

I have the Blackbird rear kit on my dana60. Have had the caddy calipers for 6 years no problems 68,000 miles

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by davepl

Are you married to the idea of rear discs? Other than mountain towing, I don't see much advantage to them. I have old cars with and without them, and frankly as long as the front discs are decent then I don't care.

In fact the one I did convert to 4-wheel has been nothing but headaches. So now I'm kinda vocal about not doing them for looks or attitude unless you need them.

If you are dead set on them, I found this. I don't know what model of axle you have (mine's a Dana, I've never had an Eaton), but it's a start:

Eaton HO52/72 Disc Brake Conversion Bracket - $50
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/...g/EHO5272.html

Dave: I am not married to the idea, but am concerned about part availability in the future. I would hate to do my frame off resto, then in a few years have to pull the rear end or do the conversion bc my drums gave out and then need to find a resolution. Should I be?

Originally Posted by franken

I think drums are hard to find for the Eatons these days, hence the disk conversions. Not to mention the weight. I've heard 14 bolt drum brakes can be made to fit. The stock rear drum brake setups on 3/4-1 tons are huge and weigh a lot.

The 3/4 ton GM front caliper and disk option is nice and simple, but the parking brake goes away. Using the Eldo calipers is expensive and unreliable (or so Ive read).

If you don't need a parking brake the front caliper/disk setup and the aftermarket bracket is a nice setup.

I have read the same thing.

Originally Posted by 72MARIO

I have the Blackbird rear kit on my dana60. Have had the caddy calipers for 6 years no problems 68,000 miles

I wish Blackbird were still in business. But my main concern is that I am by no means a mechanic and from the tutorials I've read on the BB conversion kit, there is quite a bit of removing/replacing that would make me nervous. Another reason I am considering a rear end swap in whole, but really do not want to lose the Eaton rear end.

[RustyBucket]

I'm not familiar with your eaton but recently I did a disc. conversion on the 9" ford rear in my Nova. Cheap kit included calipers, rotors, brackets, hoses, & hardware for less than $300 free shipping from Summit. Uses little 11' o.e.m. rotors & calipers from the front of some little GM product. They seemed to have a variety of kits and be pretty helpful. My concern was the diameter of the flange on the Moser axles clearing the rotor hat. Only mod. required was enlarging the holes for the big studs. It all bolted together and works GOOD. Worth a try. I got the tech. info and part number from Right Stuff Detailing but bought it from Summit a little cheaper AND with free shipping.
www.getdiscbrakes.com/

[bollybib]

Centric sells new rear drums for Eatons.

http://www.centricparts.com/products/brake-drums

[Vintage Windmills]

I did a rear disc conversion on my Eaton because I couldnt find drums for it. You can buy them for the 72's but mine is a 71 and had the 11" brakes. The conversion took some fabricating but works well although I don't have many miles on it yet due to running on 7 cylinders . I think a lot of the complaints about the eldorado calipers are if you don't properly set them up and activate them every once in awhile. They came with instructions. Truck stops fast but I haven't put a big trailer behind it yet. Here are some pics of my setup. Weight savings is negligible but the weight savings on keeping an Eaton over a 14 Bolt FF is great. The Eaton is really not that heavy, I can lift the whole axle manually if the 3rd member is out. A 14 bolt ff is 400 to 500 lbs!

Check out my get driveable" thread below in my sig link for more pics and info.

[my67c20]

Had the caddi calipers for at least 2 years, no issues. The trick with those calipers is to press the brake pedal, then set the parking brake. Just pulling on the handle was not enough, However, i did put a 14 bolt in. How often do you plan on driving the truck? How worn down are your drums now. Odds are they have never been cut, so in 40+ years they have done the job. Unless you do not plan to adjust or maintain your brakes, those should last a good long time. Worse case, jumps on the parts board and buy an axle and store the drums. If you feel like a road trip i can sell you an axle with good drums.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by RustyBucket

I'm not familiar with your eaton but recently I did a disc. conversion on the 9" ford rear in my Nova. Cheap kit included calipers, rotors, brackets, hoses, & hardware for less than $300 free shipping from Summit. Uses little 11' o.e.m. rotors & calipers from the front of some little GM product. They seemed to have a variety of kits and be pretty helpful. My concern was the diameter of the flange on the Moser axles clearing the rotor hat. Only mod. required was enlarging the holes for the big studs. It all bolted together and works GOOD. Worth a try. I got the tech. info and part number from Right Stuff Detailing but bought it from Summit a little cheaper AND with free shipping.
www.getdiscbrakes.com/

Thanks!

Originally Posted by bollybib

Centric sells new rear drums for Eatons.

http://www.centricparts.com/products/brake-drums

Thats a good find!

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

I did a rear disc conversion on my Eaton because I couldnt find drums for it. You can buy them for the 72's but mine is a 71 and had the 11" brakes. The conversion took some fabricating but works well although I don't have many miles on it yet due to running on 7 cylinders . I think a lot of the complaints about the eldorado calipers are if you don't properly set them up and activate them every once in awhile. They came with instructions. Truck stops fast but I haven't put a big trailer behind it yet. Here are some pics of my setup. Weight savings is negligible but the weight savings on keeping an Eaton over a 14 Bolt FF is great. The Eaton is really not that heavy, I can lift the whole axle manually if the 3rd member is out. A 14 bolt ff is 400 to 500 lbs!

Check out my get driveable" thread below in my sig link for more pics and info.

That is another huge reason I am interested in keeping it. But I am also concerned with the availability to parts if/when I need to freshen up/fix it.

Originally Posted by my67c20

Had the caddi calipers for at least 2 years, no issues. The trick with those calipers is to press the brake pedal, then set the parking brake. Just pulling on the handle was not enough, However, i did put a 14 bolt in. How often do you plan on driving the truck? How worn down are your drums now. Odds are they have never been cut, so in 40+ years they have done the job. Unless you do not plan to adjust or maintain your brakes, those should last a good long time. Worse case, jumps on the parts board and buy an axle and store the drums. If you feel like a road trip i can sell you an axle with good drums.

To be honest, I am now researching possibly just swapping out the rear end to a corporate that already has disc on the ends. I am definitely learning as I go, trying to figure things out. One question always leads to another haha.

[Vintage Windmills]

you can buy bearings, studs, disc bbrake parts, pretty much everything for the Eaton but the gears. The good news is the gears seem to last forever unless they get rusty. I've had 4 apart and gears had negligible wear. If they last another 45 yearsI will be in good shape. A 14bolt with discs on it already may be a good solution. Otherwise a 14bolt is a downgrade unless you want 3.73 Or lower numerically.

eaton is half the weight, just as strong, is period correct, easier to work on (removable 3rd member), and has better ground clearance. Ididn't realize all this untilI read the threads on Pirate 4x4 of an Eaton being the only thing one guys rig didnt break.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by Vintage Windmills

you can buy bearings, studs, disc bbrake parts, pretty much everything for the Eaton but the gears. The good news is the gears seem to last forever unless they get rusty. I've had 4 apart and gears had negligible wear. If they last another 45 yearsI will be in good shape. A 14bolt with discs on it already may be a good solution. Otherwise a 14bolt is a downgrade unless you want 3.73 Or lower numerically.

eaton is half the weight, just as strong, is period correct, easier to work on (removable 3rd member), and has better ground clearance. Ididn't realize all this untilI read the threads on Pirate 4x4 of an Eaton being the only thing one guys rig didnt break.

Vintage:

That is reassuring. I really want to keep the Eaton, but do want to swap for disc brakes, simply for the ease of repair. I just finished tearing down my frame and have the rear end solo and will be getting it sandblasted later this week. After which, I want to either take it to a shop to check it out or try and accomplish this myself.

Ever have disc brakes on your Eatons?

[Vintage Windmills]

Originally Posted by Jahloha

Vintage:

That is reassuring. I really want to keep the Eaton, but do want to swap for disc brakes, simply for the ease of repair. I just finished tearing down my frame and have the rear end solo and will be getting it sandblasted later this week. After which, I want to either take it to a shop to check it out or try and accomplish this myself.

Ever have disc brakes on your Eatons?

Yep, the ochre truck in the pics above with discs on it is mine. I put them on a few months ago I've got one more to do at some point.

[72MARIO]

If I remember right I weighed out at 13650lbs

[72MARIO]

I have no regrets with the rear disk. My truck is a daily hauler from April till mid November. I have always had my foot on the brake before applying the parking brake.

[special-K]

I just have to say this. If you find the drum brake parts for you're restoration now, it will be a long long time (if ever) that you'll need to worry about finding parts...even if it's a daily driver.

Also, I laugh when I see weight savings as the reason to get rid of the drums. For cryin' out loud, these are TRUCKS! Trucks are actually made for the purpose of having more weight added to them. Trucks are also assendlight when empty and a little weight makes them better to drive. Do people use Taiwan sheet metal because it's lighter?

[k2rm]

Check out TSM mfg for rear disk kits
http://www.tsmmfg.com/2630eaton.html

I wish I had went with TSM from the beginning because their kit comes with new calipers. I bought the blackbird kit, but received a bad caddy caliper (didn't realize it for over a year). I bought another set of remanned calipers from Napa, and they started leaking within a year. I finally bit the bullet and bought the new TSM calipers, and haven't had a problem.

With regards to disks vs drums, the biggest advantage to disks is how straight the truck stops now. I drove my C20 for 20 years with all drums before I made the change to disks front and back. With the drums I was always ready to counter steer if I had to brake hard. The disks stop the truck perfectly straight. My parents bought my truck new in 1969 and my dad can't believe how straight it stops now. Even brand new with drums, he said it always pulled one direction while braking hard.

[Jahloha]

Originally Posted by k2rm

Check out TSM mfg for rear disk kits
http://www.tsmmfg.com/2630eaton.html

I wish I had went with TSM from the beginning because their kit comes with new calipers. I bought the blackbird kit, but received a bad caddy caliper (didn't realize it for over a year). I bought another set of remanned calipers from Napa, and they started leaking within a year. I finally bit the bullet and bought the new TSM calipers, and haven't had a problem.

With regards to disks vs drums, the biggest advantage to disks is how straight the truck stops now. I drove my C20 for 20 years with all drums before I made the change to disks front and back. With the drums I was always ready to counter steer if I had to brake hard. The disks stop the truck perfectly straight. My parents bought my truck new in 1969 and my dad can't believe how straight it stops now. Even brand new with drums, he said it always pulled one direction while braking hard.

This is exactly something I was looking for. How do you feel the install went? Did they provide instructions? Whats your overall feelings about the product?

Sorry for the rapid fire questions!

[k2rm]

I am running the blackbird brackets and TSM calipers so I don't have experience with the TSM brackets.

The blackbird components went pretty easy. Adjusting the calipers with parking brakes was tricky, and I also needed to get longer rear parking brake cables. Getting this right is critical for good braking performance.

The hardest part was that my C20 was a 1970 with 1/2 lugs. So, I needed to have the hubs drilled out to accept 9/16th lugs that fit the 3/4 ton front disks. If you can find 1971 or 72 hubs, you won't have this problem. However, you may still need to find new studs with the proper length. It took quite a bit of internet sleuthing to find the proper studs.

I also replaced all bearings, seals, and races since I had everything apart anyway. It definitely wasn't fun to replace the bearings and races.

[Vintage Windmills]

Looks like the TSM brackets have 8 holes for mounting. That means you can clock them to get the caliper in the right position for hooking up parking brake and bleeding. Only having four to work with limited my options and is what I fought with my brackets