No spark

[AirSpeed]

Just finished installing my new 350, have ground straps connected, 12 volt to the coil but no spark. Coil, cap, rotor, plugs all new. The engine turns over very fast but I can't get spark. I went through the wiring and all seems good. Any ideas?

[BruthaMan]

Negative battery cable to engine block?

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by BruthaMan

Negative battery cable to engine block?

Yep, I just don't get it! I'm pretty sure I have it timed right but even if not I should see spark

[asolde]

The yellow wire from your starter selinoid to your coil?

[hamjet]

Pull cap, make sure dizzy is spinning, make sure rotor is on good. I'm sure you checked, just reaching...

[elimontfort]

hei or points and a condenser?

[LockDoc]

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I just went through this with my '34 Ford coupe. I didn't have the coil wire all the way down into the distributor cap. Once I corrected that it fired right up. (only if you are running a points distributor)

LockDoc

[AirSpeed]

Turns out one I hadn't plugged the power wire to the cap, the insulated connector was on the side of the lug! Got it stated but I cant get it timed, I had it at tdc, rotor pointing to number one, timing mark on zero, this is an HEI by the way. checked my firing order and it's good. It just won't time and run really smooth. I took off the vac line on dist and plugged it. Anyone have any suggestions?

[kwmech]

Off a tooth/teeth? Valves too tight?

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by kwmech

Off a tooth/teeth? Valves too tight?

Would one or two teeth off make a big difference? I've done lots engine work but never messed with the distrubutor until now!

[Steeveedee]

One or two teeth on the timing chain is a huge deal. On the distributor, not so much, because you can turn it as needed within the constraints of the plug wires and get it right. There are a lot of variables to be dealt with. What was wrong, that you replaced the engine? Best story I have on this is when one of my friends (back in the early '70s) did a valve job on his '62 Corvette because it quit running one day. It of course didn't start after all that work, because he did not find the root cause, which turned out to be a broken wire on a brand new condenser that he had put in the week before it died. Always trace it down to the root cause, because anything else is going to cost you money. Further funny- after I found the broken capacitor wire, we took the Vette up the road, and he turned around and did a neutral dump, and shattered the rear end gears. We walked home from that, only maybe a mile.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

One or two teeth on the timing chain is a huge deal. On the distributor, not so much, because you can turn it as needed within the constraints of the plug wires and get it right. There are a lot of variables to be dealt with. What was wrong, that you replaced the engine? Best story I have on this is when one of my friends (back in the early '70s) did a valve job on his '62 Corvette because it quit running one day. It of course didn't start after all that work, because he did not find the root cause, which turned out to be a broken wire on a brand new condenser that he had put in the week before it died. Always trace it down to the root cause, because anything else is going to cost you money. Further funny- after I found the broken capacitor wire, we took the Vette up the road, and he turned around and did a neutral dump, and shattered the rear end gears. We walked home from that, only maybe a mile.

I bought a new engine because my old one was tired but the last straw was when I found a bunch of water in my oil and steam coming out my exhaust. Thought it was a head gasket but they were both good. Maybe a cracked block I don't know but I have no idea how long I was running watered down oil so decided just to start fresh.
As for the distributor I'm pretty sure it's set very close, I had everything set good at tdc and rotor was pointed right at #1 and the mark on balancer lined up perfect. Unless I'm 180 out and I don't think it would run as good as it does, although not perfect. Hoping to get it done tomorrow.

[litew8]

I was going to say, it's a new engine the OP didn't put it together. Go through the process again of tdc etc... ensure all plug wires are seated, grab a chilton

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

Turns out one I hadn't plugged the power wire to the cap, the insulated connector was on the side of the lug! Got it stated but I cant get it timed, I had it at tdc, rotor pointing to number one, timing mark on zero, this is an HEI by the way. checked my firing order and it's good. It just won't time and run really smooth. I took off the vac line on dist and plugged it. Anyone have any suggestions?

OK firing order is good, but the wires have to be on the exact place where they belong on the cap in order for the distributor to be in phase. If it's out of phase, it wouldn't advance or retard enough. It has to be exactly like this picture.

[hamjet]

Check for vacuum leaks also. if its bad enough it will have the same simptoms you describe.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by mechanicalman

OK firing order is good, but the wires have to be on the exact place where they belong on the cap in order for the distributor to be in phase. If it's out of phase, it wouldn't advance or retard enough. It has to be exactly like this picture.

Thanks how I have them. Checked it a few times.

[AirSpeed]

Originally Posted by hamjet

Check for vacuum leaks also. if its bad enough it will have the same simptoms you describe.

Going to check that in just a few minutes. Thanks

[AirSpeed]

I'm still having issues getting this new 350 to run right, I haven't ran the engine more than a total of five minutes while I try different things but I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to damage something since the engine isn't broken in. It's not backfiring or running super rough but I have no clue if I could potentially mess something up! Am I worrying for nothing?

[mechanicalman]

Originally Posted by AirSpeed

I'm still having issues getting this new 350 to run right, I haven't ran the engine more than a total of five minutes while I try different things but I'm starting to wonder if I'm going to damage something since the engine isn't broken in. It's not backfiring or running super rough but I have no clue if I could potentially mess something up! Am I worrying for nothing?

Maybe the advance shaft in the dist is sticking. Try taking off the rotor cap, visually inspect the weights/springs, see if the rotor shaft moves freely and springs back after you turn it towards advance. The weights may have fell out of position when it was out of the truck.

[hamjet]

If you can keep it running, and have oil pressure, not overheating, the most important thing right now is to get that cam and lifters broken in. keep it running around 2000 -2500 rpm for 20 or so minutes watching over engine, maybe turning the dizzy alittle to smooth things out till they break in. then worry about the other problems...