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Old 11-15-2012, 09:37 PM   #1
zirk
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Leaf Spring Removal

I got a lump of money burning a hole in my pocket and I want to do a little bit of a drop on my truck, just cut a coil maybe and remove some leafs. So the question is what all will I need to remove the axle from the leaf springs? Also I'm going to pick up some u-bolts, what else will probably break from the 30+ years of rust?
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Old 11-15-2012, 09:52 PM   #2
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

the bottem leaf has clamps rivited to it, the bolt of top of that clamp will most likely be frozen. i did this the other nightm i saved time by just cutting them off
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:23 PM   #3
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

What if I just want to remove the overload?
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:28 PM   #4
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

Don't forget 2 new center pins.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:37 PM   #5
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

Get a set of 4in drop shackles and hangers($140) along with the one coil cut in the front for 2in it will be the most bang for your buck.

Removing the overload will only drop it the thickness of the overload leaf itself, less than 3/4in.
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:38 PM   #6
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

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Originally Posted by N2TRUX View Post
Don't forget 2 new center pins.
X2

check your bushings too, they are probably dry rotted
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:39 PM   #7
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

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Don't forget 2 new center pins.
yes. mine were toast
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Old 11-15-2012, 10:45 PM   #8
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

i removed the 2nd and 3rd shortest ones and i gave me an inch or two. they hold allot of arch. if you have drop shackle too then you shouldnt need the overload. it will most likely hit te bump stop before the overload even does anything
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:13 PM   #9
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

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Originally Posted by J Knight View Post
Get a set of 4in drop shackles and hangers($140) along with the one coil cut in the front for 2in it will be the most bang for your buck.

Removing the overload will only drop it the thickness of the overload leaf itself, less than 3/4in.
How difficult to install?
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Last edited by zirk; 11-15-2012 at 11:23 PM.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:29 PM   #10
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

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How difficult to install?
Just cut the rivits to remove stock hangers then bolt new ones on, then just bolt on the new shackles. Might have to notch a bed brace for the shackles if you have the shorter leafs.
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:42 PM   #11
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

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Just cut the rivits to remove stock hangers then bolt new ones on, then just bolt on the new shackles. Might have to notch a bed brace for the shackles if you have the shorter leafs.
I may just do a 2" shackle, The "10" Silverado did one and I like the ride height of his truck. Or can I get 2" of drop from removing springs... I'm just trying to be cheap
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Old 11-15-2012, 11:58 PM   #12
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

how many leafs do you have?
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:03 AM   #13
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Talking Re: Leaf Spring Removal

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Originally Posted by zirk View Post
How difficult to install?
I know many say it’s not hard and they are correct when it comes to know-how, you don’t need too much of mechanic background but when it comes to labor intensive, it is. Lots of small steps that sometimes we take for granted i.e. if you don’t remove the bed and try to do the hanger/shackle you will have to figure out what tool you will use to remove the rivets. If you plan on cutting of the head with a cutting wheel, then is that grinder going to fit in awkward positions specially on the side of the gas tank, it is well on the way of the rivets. Also if you plan on using an air hammer/punch, well is it going to be possible that it will fit in the tight spaces to punch the rivets out?
now if you remove the bed, which is not too hard, but more cumbersome if you don’t have access to lift or bodies to help lift it off (and yes there are other ways to accomplished the bed removal maybe even on your own), well that makes it easier in removing the rivets and punching them out but it takes a bit more time in the overall task. Either way it will be a give and take depending on the route you want to go.
bed removal is easy, remove tail lights (eight screws X2), pull tail light wiring harness from the bed, remove differential overfill tube (one screw), gas tank ground wire to frame (one screw), three screws to remove fuel filler tube and the eight bolts that hold the bed to frame.
things to keep in mind: the bushings from the hanger might need to grinded a bit if they don’t fit in the rear hanger (if you try to hammer them in you will probably ruin them, ask me how i know...) don’t tighten the new hangers or anything completely until everything is fitted into position or you might have to loosen something up over again and again...
this not to discourage but just to give you an idea that you might want to account for more time in the task then you might anticipate. Then again it might have been just my inexperience that thought me the hard way but if I was able to do it, anyone can. Just mho.

Mando.

Last edited by Lost81c10; 11-16-2012 at 12:08 AM.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:06 AM   #14
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by zirk View Post
I may just do a 2" shackle, The "10" Silverado did one and I like the ride height of his truck. Or can I get 2" of drop from removing springs... I'm just trying to be cheap
You can get close to 2in by removing the shorts leafs.
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:08 AM   #15
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

Quote:
Originally Posted by Lost81c10 View Post
I know many say it’s not hard and they are correct when it comes to know-how, you don’t need too much of mechanic background but when it comes to labor intensive, it is. Lots of small steps that sometimes we take for granted i.e. if you don’t remove the bed and try to do the hanger/shackle you will have to figure out what tool you will use to remove the rivets. If you plan on cutting of the head with a cutting wheel, then is that grinder going to fit in awkward positions specially on the side of the gas tank, it is well on the way of the rivets. Also if you plan on using an air hammer/punch, well is it going to be possible that it will fit in the tight spaces to punch the rivets out?
now if you remove the bed, which is not too hard, but more cumbersome if you don’t have access to lift or bodies to help lift it off (and yes there are other ways to accomplished the bed removal maybe even on your own), well that makes it easier in removing the rivets and punching them out but it takes a bit more time in the overall task. Either way it will be a give and take depending on the route you want to go.
bed removal is easy, remove tail lights (eight screws), pull tail light wiring harness from the bed, remove differential overfill tube (one screw), gas tank ground wire to frame (one screw), three screws to remove fuel filler tube and the eight bolts that hold the bed to frame.
things to keep in mind: the bushings from the hanger might need to grinded a bit if they don’t fit in the rear hanger (if you try to hammer them in you will probably ruin them, ask me how i know...) don’t tighten the new hangers or anything completely until everything is fitted into position or you might have to loosen something up over again and again...
this not to discourage but just to give you an idea that you might want to account for more time in the task then you might anticipate. Then again it might have been just my inexperience that thought me the hard way but if I was able to do it, anyone can. Just mho.

Mando.

My name Is Armando too lol, sorry to side track
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Old 11-16-2012, 12:14 AM   #16
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

Quote:
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how many leafs do you have?
I have 4.
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Old 11-16-2012, 05:44 PM   #17
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

O'rielly had these on the shelf, last set. Snatched em up.
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Old 11-16-2012, 08:48 PM   #18
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Re: Leaf Spring Removal

belltech is the best IMO....congrats
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