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Old 01-31-2014, 02:49 PM   #1
bigmac73
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New Rotors

I bought a set of new rotors from LMC a while back and also replaced all wheel bearings and seals, as well,

the rotors came with new bearing races installed so I did not use the races that came with the new wheel bearings.. (also from LMC)

did i make a mistake by not using race from new bearings? any opinions are appreciated
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:52 PM   #2
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Re: New Rotors

As long as both were new and they are adjusted right, you should be good to go. The problems usually come in when you use new with used or used with non-mated used. I usually feel the wheel center periodically for heat. I've been daily driving these trucks for decades and heat always precedes failure.
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Old 01-31-2014, 02:57 PM   #3
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Re: New Rotors

the reason i asked is i have the truck up on stands while doing the tranny overhaul, i walked over to the front right wheel and grabbed it and i got a little side to side action out of it .. I am going to pull out the bearings and check them out and grease them up , maybe i did not quite get them tight enough, it has about 10K miles on it since i replaced them
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:02 PM   #4
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Re: New Rotors

Side/side means (normally) not enough tightness on the castle nut. If you check the bearings and confirm they are still good, repack them, then tighten the castle but by hand until it's "pretty darn tight" - ensure no side/side movement, and then back off until you can insert the cotter pin. Someone probably has the exact torque reading to give you vice the "pretty darn tight"... If you still have side/side movement, then you may have an issue. But, concur with prior posts - different mfgr brgs and races should be interchangeable. I've done this and had no problems. They are built to a spec, not to a set. Having said that, all bets are off on overseas parts... The mixing I did was with fed mogul and stock gm - really kinda one and the same.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:03 PM   #5
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Re: New Rotors

Like Jeff said, new bearings with new races are fine. Maybe recheck your adjustment to address the play.

Also, please don't buy rotors from LMC. They stiff you on price of parts and shipping. You can buy 5 lug rotors at the local parts store and six lug rotors from vendors who are cheaper than LMC. I don't know if there's a single thing in the LMC catalog that you can't buy cheaper elsewhere.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:04 PM   #6
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Re: New Rotors

Check it for up and down as well. If it's loose bearings it will wobble on either axis. The races may not have been seated all the way. A brass drift and BFH will prevent this in the future.
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Old 01-31-2014, 03:09 PM   #7
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Re: New Rotors

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Originally Posted by imjeff View Post
Check it for up and down as well. If it's loose bearings it will wobble on either axis. The races may not have been seated all the way. A brass drift and BFH will prevent this in the future.
will check it all out when the snow thaws, I haven't heard the term "BFH" since my steaming days years ago....
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Old 01-31-2014, 06:45 PM   #8
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Re: New Rotors

Could also be a worn out tie rod end or worn ball joints.

I agree with TXFF... I would source the rotors from a local parts store before I'd order from LMC. Any parts supply should have them.

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Old 01-31-2014, 08:12 PM   #9
bigmac73
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Re: New Rotors

every piece under the front end is brand new all replaced last summer, so it has to be a wheel bearing adjustment
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Old 01-31-2014, 09:23 PM   #10
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Re: New Rotors

Don't over tighten them, tapered wheel bearings are better off slightly loose then too tight.
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Old 02-01-2014, 08:06 AM   #11
bigmac73
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Re: New Rotors

well my dad taught me years ago, to adjust them until the wheel wont turn then back them off slightly until the wheel turns and the castle nut lines up with hole
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72 C-10 Cheyenne off frame resto and Upgraded to 4 wheel disk, Tilt, Dakota Digital Dash / Rear slider.
421 SBC / TH350 3000RPM Stall
Progression Ignition /Holley 750 DP/3:73 gear Eaton Limited Slip unit / 2 1/2 exhaust glasspacks
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