exhaust manifold to exhaust pipe torque value?

[weider1717]

I torqued my original cast iron manifolds to the block per torque values I found on the net 26ft lbs on the 2 inner bolts and 20ft lbs on the outer bolts.

Question - Is there a torque value for the exhaust manifold STUDS to the exhaust pipe? I can't find any online this is for a 1987 1/2 ton silver ado model v10. Maybe the manifold to pipe typically doesn't have a torque value? but surely it does not everyone has common sense and I like things to spec.

it just says 2 inner bolts 26ft lbs all other bolts 20ft lbs think that just refers to manifold to head though.

I'm by the book so if there is a value I would rather just torque to spec. thanks

[68Timber]

That's one I'd rather do by feel and get it gudentite. If you try taking it to a specific number it might snap and give you more grief than it's worth. Snug it up tight as you feel comfortable - if it don't leak you are good. I've got a manual and can look it up if you want though.

[weider1717]

Originally Posted by BRUISER

That's one I'd rather do by feel and get it gudentite. If you try taking it to a specific number it might snap and give you more grief than it's worth. Snug it up tight as you feel comfortable - if it don't leak you are good. I've got a manual and can look it up if you want though.

If you wouldn't mind looking for me I would appreciate it. Remember this is on the bottom end where the manifold / studs mate up to the exhaust pipe. the manifolds are already in place and torqued to spec to the heads.

need to know what torque to put on the nuts I have all new hardware, spring, nuts, studs so hopefully won't have to touch this for awhile.

[68Timber]

17 ft/lbs. I wouldn't have guessed it that low. I forgot you'd restored your manifolds. Nice work and beautiful truck.

[weider1717]

Thanks bruiser!

I'm a bit confused though I remember the spring load tension (by looks) on the original springs when I removed them and took note of how much threads were exposed etc.

before your response I set my torque wrench to 5ftlbs and never got the "click" and I was about where I marked them to be before I removed them.

I'll take it for what its worth and torque to 17ftlbs though and see how things look.

[cadillac_al]

I thought this was going to be a thread about a broken stud from a cheap torque wrench. I guess you lucked out so far because I read about it all the time. I did it once myself in my younger days. You wait for the click and the bolt/stud goes snap. I think some of these torque values are just to give you an idea how tight to crank on it with your wrist. I have gone on rants in the past about cheap clicker torque wrenches. I still rebuild engines with my old old beam type torque wrench and it hasn't failed me yet.

[68Timber]

Originally Posted by cadillac_al

I thought this was going to be a thread about a broken stud from a cheap torque wrench. I guess you lucked out so far because I read about it all the time. I did it once myself in my younger days. You wait for the click and the bolt/stud goes snap. I think some of these torque values are just to give you an idea how tight to crank on it with your wrist. I have gone on rants in the past about cheap clicker torque wrenches. I still rebuild engines with my old old beam type torque wrench and it hasn't failed me yet.

Based on a Car Craft or Hot Rod article on torque wrenches, I picked up a HF $10.00 model - according to their testing it was as accurate as any of them. My Craftsman model died recently, and a buddy was over helping me put heads on a motor. He brought his 30 yr old Snap On. Out of the box, that cheap HF wrench torqued to the same spec that Snap On wrench did. I don't know how it'll hold up though, I kinda feel like a need a more expensive one to rely on.