Budget Upgrade/Build on a 1966 C10 $900 budget

[DenBen777]

Hello, I just sold a newer car with plans on making my 66 c10 a daily driver.
What's my budget? $900 in (Southern California)

Things I would like to accomplish:

1-Engine: inline 6 that ran - on stand (not sure of displacement yet, until I pull the spark plugs.)
*find a used or affordable radiator & hoses & install
*Replace the valvue cover gasket
*Replace the oil pan gasket & freeze plugs?
*Replace spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, and points
*Replace the water pump
*Replace the alternator
*Oil change, oil filter, fuel filter
*replace intake and 1 barrel carb for a 4 barrel setup

2-Transmission: 2004r or 700r4 (probably 2004r so I don't have to shorten the first drive shaft)
*Pull a tranny from the junk yard
*Rebuild it if not very expensive for a kit.
*Install with engine in more forward mounting position if needed to save on drive shaft rework cost.

3-Brakes - Upgrade to power w/ dual reservoir front disk
*Locate dual reservoir, brake booster, & brake lines at good price & install
*get disk brake setup from a later model vehicle that can bolt right in & install w/ minkmal fab

4-Rewire myself

5-Get windows functioning (glass fell out of place on both sides)

-----Perhaps postpone this a little if over budget-----

5-Gas tank relocation
*Find a later model tank to fit between the frame rails somewhere
Or make or have a custol tank made

6-Power Steering upgrade.

Thank you for reading all that, any and all help is appreciated!

Oh, and I hope to document it all on my 60-66 C10 page on facebook! Drop by and check us out!

!https://m.facebook.com/Chevy-C-10-19...?ref=bookmarks

[Rust-O-Matic]

I don't wanna sound like a negative Nancy, but this is a pretty ambitious list considering your budget. I know the feeling though, my budget is typically closer to $0 haha. Here's my 2 cents:

1. Gaskets, waterpump, and tune-up are cheap and easy, and worthwhile investments in my opinion. However, a new 4bbl manifold and carb are in the neighborhood of $600. That's enough money to buy 3 junkyard 350 V8's here in Missouri. Then you will need a $300 set of headers, dual exhaust, and a lumpier cam to actually make use of it.

2. Automatic trannies have a ton of parts inside them, and usually require special tools and specific knowledge I do not possess to rebuild. Unless you are a pro (and maybe you are, I'm not trying to question your skill level or intelligence) this is usually best left to the pros. For a 6 cylinder driver, a 200r4 or 700r4 either one would probably be just fine, and a decent junkyard unit with new clean fluid in it would probably last for years as-is.

3. Sounds pretty straightforward. You may find that boneyard brake parts aren't in the best of shape though, and may want to figure in the cost of new rotors, calipers, etc.

4. Rewiring an entire truck correctly will likely eat half of your budget or more. You can hack something together with $20 worth of wire and house wire nuts (like the previous owner of my truck did), but in the long run you get what you pay for. If the whole truck burns to the ground on the freeway, you didn't really save much. I would look at pre-made kits, or replace a portion of the original harnesses one at a time.

5. Not sure what's up with the windows. Sounds like maybe the bottom channel piece that holds the glass rusted out or something. Wouldn't cost anything to take the door panels off and check em out.

5.b. There is much debate on tank location, but in my opinion the cab is the safest place in the vehicle, and as long as the original isn't leaking or spewing fumes inside, there's no reason to spend unnecessary money relocating it.

6. Power steering should be easy if you can find the brackets to mount the pump to your 6 cylinder. The rest of it is just getting an adapter plate from someone like CaptainFab, modifying the steering shaft, and bolting up a newer style gearbox, etc.

Not trying to discourage you with any of this stuff. Just saying if it were mine I'd focus on replacing the stuff that doesn't work for now, and make it reliable. Then I'd start saving for upgrades once it's on the road.

[sandiego65]

Where in socal are you located?

[TJ's Chevy]

Keep the 6 stock for now and upgrade later. 4 barrel and headers will be a nice improvement with a new cam or even without. Tune it up real good and drive the heck out of it. Then when you can save up get the 4 barrel and headers. $289 for the intake. $277 for the headers. And a good 500 or 600 edelbrock is gonna be in the $320 range. Unless you find a good used one.

[DenBen777]

I'll reply like this to keep it legible

Originally Posted by Rust-O-Matic

I don't wanna sound like a negative Nancy, but this is a pretty ambitious list considering your budget. I know the feeling though, my budget is typically closer to $0 haha. Here's my 2 cents:

I appreciate your two cents, and thanks for the compliment, I always try to remain ambitious, ha ha ; )

1. Gaskets, waterpump, and tune-up are cheap and easy, and worthwhile investments in my opinion. However, a new 4bbl manifold and carb are in the neighborhood of $600. That's enough money to buy 3 junkyard 350 V8's here in Missouri. Then you will need a $300 set of headers, dual exhaust, and a lumpier cam to actually make use of it.

I agree on the gaskets, etc. I'm not partial to "new" on the rest of it, and I'm ok with decent condition & I'll rebuild the carb. For this, I do have a 650cfm Edelbrock carb, some sb & bb chevy iron heads, a 70 chevelle front bumper to trade the right person(s) & this upgrade can be done later, or I can raise some funds & jump into the turbo'd version later down the line. Perhaps for now a 2 barrel may be better than the Carter YF 1 barrel on fuel economy & drivability? I have a single tip exhaust with a flowmaster now... i can redo the exhaust if need be, but I'd try to score headers at a swapmeet or fab some up myself, but that seems like a pain.


2. Automatic trannies have a ton of parts inside them, and usually require special tools and specific knowledge I do not possess to rebuild. Unless you are a pro (and maybe you are, I'm not trying to question your skill level or intelligence) this is usually best left to the pros. For a 6 cylinder driver, a 200r4 or 700r4 either one would probably be just fine, and a decent junkyard unit with new clean fluid in it would probably last for years as-is.

Yes, they look intimidating, but my wife's cousin (mechanic) has rebuilt them & is familiar with the process, otherwise my friend also has a shop & he's going to help if a rebuild is necessary, but in an ideal world I just find a trans that is in good shape.
Question, if I put the 2004r in, can that be put in without having to modify the drive shaft?

3. Sounds pretty straightforward. You may find that boneyard brake parts aren't in the best of shape though, and may want to figure in the cost of new rotors, calipers, etc.

Does anyone know what vehicles I can snag disc brakes from & what size rim I need to clear them? I currently have some 17" wheels that were on the truck when I bought it. Thanks for that heads up, ideally I would want fresh calipers & cylinders, but may have to slap them in & replace what doesn't work if money gets tight.

4. Rewiring an entire truck correctly will likely eat half of your budget or more. You can hack something together with $20 worth of wire and house wire nuts (like the previous owner of my truck did), but in the long run you get what you pay for. If the whole truck burns to the ground on the freeway, you didn't really save much. I would look at pre-made kits, or replace a portion of the original harnesses one at a time.

[U1Irewired my 72 Chevelle with a "painless" wiring kit before & have a degree in electro ics, so I'm up to the task, but this time would make up my own harness to save some dough, the only thing is that the colors won't be spot on, but I'll mimic original as best as possible. No wire nuts!!! That's crazy.... Solder & heat shrink & automotive connectors only, ha ha![/U]

5. Not sure what's up with the windows. Sounds like maybe the bottom channel piece that holds the glass rusted out or something. Wouldn't cost anything to take the door panels off and check em out.

I haven't looked into the windows yet, perhaps the guy I bought it from just placed them in...

5.b. There is much debate on tank location, but in my opinion the cab is the safest place in the vehicle, and as long as the original isn't leaking or spewing fumes inside, there's no reason to spend unnecessary money relocating it.
Ya, i think I'll throw on a new cap, new hose, check for leaks and flush it out, then slap a clear fuel filter in line until I can get a custom tank or something... In the long run I'd like the fuel away from my body : )

6. Power steering should be easy if you can find the brackets to mount the pump to your 6 cylinder. The rest of it is just getting an adapter plate from someone like CaptainFab, modifying the steering shaft, and bolting up a newer style gearbox, etc.

I can fabricate bracket, my buddy with the shop has a mill & all kinds of tools for that, I'm also a welder if any of that is required, so we're not noobs, but I just want to cover all my bases & run it by folks with the same vehicle... For example I have no idea what later model vehicles I should pull so.e of that stuff off of to have an easy and doable swap. Power steering seems to be the easier of these.'


Not trying to discourage you with any of this stuff. Just saying if it were mine I'd focus on replacing the stuff that doesn't work for now, and make it reliable. Then I'd start saving for upgrades once it's on the road.

I appreciate your feedback, I don't get discouraged very easily, I'm a sleuth for solutions : )
I agree with your last statement, I just wanted to takle anything I can right off the bat, like the tranny, since I have no interedt in driving another stick shift vehicle in L.A. EVER

THANKS A BUNCH, if anyone knows what compatible vehicles to pull from, that would be super helpful.'

[DenBen777]

Originally Posted by sandiego65

Where in socal are you located?

The truck is in Bellflower, and my buddy's shop, where I can tae it if need be is in Long Beach

[DenBen777]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

Keep the 6 stock for now and upgrade later. 4 barrel and headers will be a nice improvement with a new cam or even without. Tune it up real good and drive the heck out of it. Then when you can save up get the 4 barrel and headers. $289 for the intake. $277 for the headers. And a good 500 or 600 edelbrock is gonna be in the $320 range. Unless you find a good used one.

Sounds like a plan, would I be able to use my 650 edelbrock? Maybe when I find a turbo for it?
How do 1barrels compare to 2 barrels on this setup, and how crucial is knowing my displacement? I believe it to be a 250 or smaller perhaps? It came out of a 68 camaro

[LT1 Burb]

way too much carb for a 6.

[TJ's Chevy]

Originally Posted by DenBen777

Sounds like a plan, would I be able to use my 650 edelbrock? Maybe when I find a turbo for it?
How do 1barrels compare to 2 barrels on this setup, and how crucial is knowing my displacement? I believe it to be a 250 or smaller perhaps? It came out of a 68 camaro

The 650 would be a little big for a 230 or 250(you have one of the two). A 2 barrel will make a little difference, but you'll notice more of an increase going with a 4 barrel. To tell if yours is a 230 pull a spark plug and see if the piston is a flat top, to tell if it's a 250 the piston will have a dish. And you'll be able to see the dish as it will be a D shape. If yours is a 230 you can stroke it to a 250 with a 250 crank, rods, and pistons, OR just find a 250. But since you are on a budget and if you have a 230 I'd go v8 at that point.
But if you have a 250 they are Really good for making power out of. Naturally aspirated with a street build one made 320 hp and 275 torque.

[Rust-O-Matic]

Sorry I can't help you on your transmission swap questions, but I have read on othe threads that the 200r4 is pretty close in length to a turbo 350 and should be a little easier swap than the longer 700r4. I don't know how the 200r4 compares to what was in your truck though, so I'm not sure what all you would need to do.

For brakes (and steering) you can swap the whole front crossmember, a-arms and all, from a 73-87 pickup. Search the forums here a little about it, there's a couple really good threads on it. It should only require a couple bolt holes to be elongated, and the rest of it just bolts right up. You could also take just the spindles and brake parts from a 73-87, but I'm not positive if your 66 ball joints are the right size, or if they would need to be swapped for 73-87 style as well. I believe most if not all 1/2 ton trucks those years came with 15" wheels, so I presume you want 15s or bigger.

If you change your mind on the wire nuts let me know and I'll send you a pile of the ones I removed lol!

If you ever get that 6 cylinder turbo'd I'd be interested to see how it turns out. I've got a 65 Belair that would be a good candidate for a similar setup. Not sure what size carb the turbo would require, but a 650 is probably too big for a 230-250 in srock form. I think you want something closer to 500 cfm. There are some 2 barrels out there in that range as well.

[DenBen777]

Originally Posted by TJ's Chevy

The 650 would be a little big for a 230 or 250(you have one of the two). A 2 barrel will make a little difference, but you'll notice more of an increase going with a 4 barrel. To tell if yours is a 230 pull a spark plug and see if the piston is a flat top, to tell if it's a 250 the piston will have a dish. And you'll be able to see the dish as it will be a D shape. If yours is a 230 you can stroke it to a 250 with a 250 crank, rods, and pistons, OR just find a 250. But since you are on a budget and if you have a 230 I'd go v8 at that point.
But if you have a 250 they are Really good for making power out of. Naturally aspirated with a street build one made 320 hp and 275 torque.

I'll have to check the displacement, I was hoping the 650 would work if turbo'd later, perhaps jetted down... Otherwise I'll just sell it to get the right combo. Well at leadt the block is the same for the 230 & 250, that way when I rebuild it down the line I can do the 250 setup, with turbo in mind. For now I'll just drop it in & see about a 2 barrel'

[DenBen777]

Originally Posted by Rust-O-Matic

Sorry I can't help you on your transmission swap questions, but I have read on othe threads that the 200r4 is pretty close in length to a turbo 350 and should be a little easier swap than the longer 700r4. I don't know how the 200r4 compares to what was in your truck though, so I'm not sure what all you would need to do.

The tranny I pulled out is a 3 speed manual, I wonder how the 2004r compares to that

For brakes (and steering) you can swap the whole front crossmember, a-arms and all, from a 73-87 pickup. Search the forums here a little about it, there's a couple really good threads on it. It should only require a couple bolt holes to be elongated, and the rest of it just bolts right
up. You could also take just the spindles and brake parts from a 73-87, but I'm not positive if your 66 ball joints are the right size, or if they would need to be swapped for 73-87 style as well. I believe most if not all 1/2 ton trucks those years came with 15" wheels, so I presume you want 15s or bigger.

That's some good intel! So 88 on forward won't work then? I'll have to scavenge around & see what I find in decent shape closest to 87.. I'll dig around in the other threads for details.

If you change your mind on the wire nuts let me know and I'll send you a pile of the ones I removed lol!

: )

If you ever get that 6 cylinder turbo'd I'd be interested to see how it turns out. I've got a 65 Belair that would be a good candidate for a similar setup. Not sure what size carb the turbo would require, but a 650 is probably too big for a 230-250 in srock form. I think you want something closer to 500 cfm. There are some 2 barrels out there in that range as well.

Sure thing, if I get that turbo set up, I'll update here & on my 60-66 C10 page on facebook. That reminds me of a couple of quadrajets I have collecting dust in the garage somewhere. I'll have to look around about info on the different intake manifolds also, meanwhile maybe I can just port the stock one. It'd be interesti g to see if anyone has hacked off the exhaust half od the manifoaaccomomakeroom to put headers on & isolate the intake & exhaust

Thanks for the intel, I replied in between yours

[DenBen777]

The next step is carving out some junk yard time & hopefully recruiting a friend to tag along, a ffried with a truck would be bonus, since my wife's Chevy Equinox isn't really made to haul junk yard parts in, ha ha

I'll keep yall posted on any progress (born & raised in California, the "yall" was for effect, ha ha ha)

[chevyrestoguy]

Setting a budget and having a detailed plan is a great idea. Just be ready for this.........it's almost a guarantee that you'll go over budget very quickly, and that's OK. We've all been there, even with the best of intentions. If you've got something torn down to a certain level, it's the perfect time to freshen it up, even if it makes you go over budget. You're almost wasting your time if you put something together knowing that you'll be yanking it back apart in the near future. Do it once and be done with it. Build it with pride and attention to detail. Once you get the truck on the road and you're having a blast with it, the last thing you want to do is tear it back apart.

You can stretch your $900 pretty far if you hustle. Hit the wrecking yards on 1/2 price day, scour Craigslist for good deals, trade parts with your friends, sell off the parts you don't need anymore, etc. You've got the RIGHT idea! To me, anybody can build a car/truck with catalog parts, but in the end, you'll have a huge credit card bill. True hotrodders use their brains, resources, friends, and other connections to build good, safe vehicles with affordable parts. That is what our hobby is all about!

If you have any questions, feel free to PM me at any time.

[DenBen777]

Here is a little update: I scored a 2004r transmission that was said to have worked fine when pulled for $325! This seemed like a steal after having previously gone to the junk yard and finding about 14 cars that should have this transmission, but actually had wind tunnels instead ; )
Now considering that it is a huge chunk of my budget, I'm going to have to see abojt getting deals elsewhere.
I did find a 2 barrel carb in my garage that Ibhad forgotten about, so that's a score!
I did find that although the 2004r may be the size of 350 turbo, it is longer than the Saginaw 3 speed I had pulled out, so modifying the drive shaft might just be what blows my budget, but we'll see how it goes. Thanks forbwatching, and stay tuned : )

[roll_the_dice]

What's up with your windows? Mine came out of track on the drivers side this past weekend. It made it very difficult to close...the window was hitting and jamming not allowing it to go up. I ended up having to take the window vent out and then I could readjust the window back in the frame. Reinstalled window vent and works better than it has since I bought it last August....took me 15 minutes.

[DenBen777]

Originally Posted by roll_the_dice

What's up with your windows? Mine came out of track on the drivers side this past weekend. It made it very difficult to close...the window was hitting and jamming not allowing it to go up. I ended up having to take the window vent out and then I could readjust the window back in the frame. Reinstalled window vent and works better than it has since I bought it last August....took me 15 minutes.

I havenhaveven looked at that, I think the guy before me just set them in place...

[DenBen777]

So perhaps I can save on the drive shaft bybgoing with a single out of another vehicle,
instead of the dual setup.
If anyone knows what driveshaft to get for this, let me know. I'll be hunting around in the forum fthethe answer.

[urmyboyblue]

My comments in bold.

Originally Posted by DenBen777

Hello, I just sold a newer car with plans on making my 66 c10 a daily driver.
What's my budget? $900 in (Southern California)

Things I would like to accomplish:

1-Engine: inline 6 that ran - on stand (not sure of displacement yet, until I pull the spark plugs.)
*find a used or affordable radiator & hoses & install
*Replace the valvue cover gasket
*Replace the oil pan gasket & freeze plugs?
*Replace spark plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, and points
*Replace the water pump
*Replace the alternator
*Oil change, oil filter, fuel filter
*replace intake and 1 barrel carb for a 4 barrel setup

You can get concrete pricing on this thru the websites of Autozone, Advance, etc. so you won't have to guess prices. I would look for a comparable sized radiator from a newer vehicle and make it fit- you can get one out of a junkyard or from a parts store. They are less expensive then you might think. I would consider keeping the one barrel and rebuilding it to save money. Your budget is TIGHT here. I would ball park you spending $250 here without replacing the carb and intake.

2-Transmission: 2004r or 700r4 (probably 2004r so I don't have to shorten the first drive shaft)
*Pull a tranny from the junk yard
*Rebuild it if not very expensive for a kit.
*Install with engine in more forward mounting position if needed to save on drive shaft rework cost.

Look for a transmission in the want ads and Craigslist from a running vehicle. You will have to replace the yoke most likely and probably shorten the driveshaft. It might be cheaper to buy a driveshaft with the trans and shorten it. Around here, shortening a drive shaft is $100.

3-Brakes - Upgrade to power w/ dual reservoir front disk
*Locate dual reservoir, brake booster, & brake lines at good price & install
*get disk brake setup from a later model vehicle that can bolt right in & install w/ minkmal fab

Depending on the state of the truck as it stands, you might omit some of this. If it has been sitting for any length of time, then this is an area you don't want to skimp in. Go thru the brakes thoroughly. Disc brakes from a 73-87 will bolt on if you replace the spindles and ball joints as well as the steering linkages. Look for threads on this subject on this website.

4-Rewire myself

The cheapest way to go here is to buy bulk wire, reuse the existing plugs, and use generic fuse blocks and connectors. Still going to be around $200 for a full rewire.

5-Get windows functioning (glass fell out of place on both sides)

-----Perhaps postpone this a little if over budget-----

5-Gas tank relocation
*Find a later model tank to fit between the frame rails somewhere
Or make or have a custol tank made

6-Power Steering upgrade.

The power steering can be added when you update the brakes. Snag the steering gear box and pump off the same truck you pull the spindles and discs from.

Thank you for reading all that, any and all help is appreciated!

Oh, and I hope to document it all on my 60-66 C10 page on facebook! Drop by and check us out!

!https://m.facebook.com/Chevy-C-10-19...?ref=bookmarks

Good luck!