Need help

[Klassen kustoms]

So normally I can get this stuff right away and not have much issue but this truck is just stumping me!
It’s an 80 stepside with a 305 i got off a buddy for 350$... I couldn’t say no!

When I got the truck it ran rough but still ran ( almost acted like weak spark ) but it had a massive leak out of the intake manifold... well I got all that fixed, at the time I was 90% sure I put the engine to tdc .. the previous owners were not very smart with that truck so it doesn’t have any timing marks anywhere or a timing pointer

Well fast forward and I get it all back together .. first time it was 180 out so I fixed that and it still won’t start ... I’ve tried new plugs, a different ground cable ( off a running truck ), a different cap, and it’s gotten better... now it’s shooting a bit of fire out the exhaust and huffing a bit of smoke here and there out the tailpipe ... but still nothing and the spark is still orange

Could it be out of timing ? I’ve messed with it a lot trying to get it right
Or could it be the distributor ?

[cadillac_al]

Most likely timing is still off. You will have to verify TDC as best you can and try to time it by ear. Next time you have to change an intake manifold just point your dist rotor at the firewall and reinstall it the same way.

[blazer2007]

set the valves again ?

[Dead Parrot]

Guessing you are off by one on the plug wires on the cap. Depending on the manifold, you may be able to turn the dizzy one full position and see if that way makes it better.

Otherwise, just move all the wires one post and try it. If no luck, move them the other way.

[Klassen kustoms]

Alright thank you guys ... maybe next time in in town I’ll grab a timing pointer and different balancer with all the marks on it too...

I’ll try the moving around of plug wires too

As far as I’m aware the valves are actually pretty good? The one thing on this truck that actually seems good! But I did that trick to try and tell if it’s at tdc and used a plastic straw to see and it was at the top

And thank you next time I will just point it at the firewall that seems MUCH easier

[Klassen kustoms]

Tried moving the plugs around and nothing

Got a bit better at one point and now is popping and banging out the exhaust pretty bad but still no start or even like rumble of a start up... just backfires... I’ll try a shot and getting it to tdc again and maybe that’ll do it

[geezer#99]

When I’ve not had timing marks to use to time a motor I’ve just screwed my compression tester into #1 and bumped it over until it shows compression and then point the rotor towards #1 wire on the cap.
It should fire that way.

[Klassen kustoms]

I will see if I can find a compression tester

[geezer#99]

If you don’t have a tester then make a whistle from a spark plug. Drill a small hole down the middle. Not hard to hear when it comes up on compression.

[Klassen kustoms]

Got it started! It’s running super rough and not responding well to any throttle but it is running!

Thanks for the help guys

Turns out it was way outta time so I got it set just a hair before tdc

[Dead Parrot]

Congrats!

Double check firing order vs wire order on the cap. With all the wire moving, two or more might be switched up.

Might make sure the dizzy is getting a full 12 volt supply. That year of truck shouldn't have had any kind of resistor wire/block but no telling what a PO might have installed because....

[Klassen kustoms]

I know the orange wire that goes to the distributor is really janky but seems to work

The truck seems to have a resistor block on the firewall too

[Klassen kustoms]

The two trucks are looking good together now! Still fighting a big coolant leak on the step side which the intake manifold gaskets didn’t help ... so I’m thinking freeze plugs as it’s dropping onto the bell housing, in the bell housing it seems, and on the starter

[geezer#99]

Your leak could be coming from the front.
I’ve had them where the coolant ran down the front of the heads and along the pan rail and back to the starter.

[Klassen kustoms]

I know my thermostat housing has a small drip but it’s sure not that much

It’s dumping like a jug once it runs for a couple minutes

It’s hard to check around in the engine bay so pulling the motor will have to suffice ... I’ve never yanked a motor without the trans before so that’s gonna be interesting to do gotta figure that one out .. only ever done it with the trans attached

I’ll give the engine I nice coat of paint while it’s out and maybe paint the bay

[Pontiac1976]

I bet that from the stat old style flat chrome they know for leaks. if it is Fel-Pro blue plastic spacer with rubber rings on both side stops them from leaking (tip do not over tighten the bolts) CAN be-REUSED for a few yr's.

[Klassen kustoms]

It’s one of the ones with an o ring in it .. or supposed to be ... I am gonna toss it and get an adjustable one cause I need the space for the electric fan temp sensor